Latest news with #TheStateofFashion2025
Business of Fashion
19-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
At Raisefashion, Supporting Underrepresented Designers at the Forefront of Sustainable Fashion
In 2025, sustainability has decreased in priority for fashion businesses, with only 18 percent of executives surveyed for The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Co.'s The State of Fashion 2025 report citing it as a top-three risk for growth in 2025 — compared to 29 percent in 2024. This downward trend reflects an overarching row back on sustainability initiatives, with most companies lagging on their environmental targets and investments — despite accelerations of regulatory reform, mounting costs of non-compliance and the climate crisis remaining an imminent global threat. Consequently, emerging designers and the next generation of fashion entrepreneurs are driving the sustainability agenda today — but these brands continue to face significant hurdles achieving visibility, access, funding and wider support in the macro-economic environment of 2025. These challenges are further magnified for brand founders from underrepresented communities: the share of US startup funding going to companies with Black founders hit a multi-year low in 2024, with about $730 million — or 0.4 percent of all funding — reaching this demographic, according to Crunchbase News. 'The challenges designers face aren't just complex. They're layered, deeply personal and often invisible to the outside world,' said Felita Harris, the executive director and co-founder of the non-profit organisation Raisefashion, at a recent panel discussion in New York. Raisefashion launched in July 2020 in a bid to improve accessibility for underrepresented designers in the fashion industry while fostering a more equitable new generation of brands. Ninety percent of the entrepreneurs and designers on the Raisefashion programme are running sustainability-oriented businesses. The non-profit is focused on ensuring that designers in its programme are not only supported but poised for success in an industry increasingly shaped by conscious consumerism. In so doing, Raisefashion has launched a brand fellowship this year, supporting eight BIPOC designers — each of whom has the opportunity to receive a grant ranging from $10,000 to $15,000, along with hands-on training focused on building a successful brand positioned for long-term operational growth. Raisefashion's advisory platform is at the heart of its mission and connects emerging designers with a network of over 400 industry experts across creative, merchandising, operations and business development. It provides personalised guidance, fosters community-building initiatives and ensures BIPOC designers are equipped with the strategic support they need to thrive. Felita Harris, Raisefashion's executive director and founding board member. (RaiseFashion) Raisefashion's advisory services sits at the heart of its mission, rooted in the understanding that underrepresented founders often face systemic barriers to the guidance, insights and mentorship necessary to grow a successful fashion business. To further this commitment, Raisefashion recently launched it Advisory Platform — a members-only digital ecosystem designer to offer real-time access to over hundreds of seasons professionals across merchandising, buying, operations and business development. The platform delivers personalised guidance, curated connections and a strong sense of community — ensuring that underrepresented designers have the tools, relationships and support they need to thrive. Additionally, mental health is another critical component of Raisefashion's approach, recognising that the pressures of entrepreneurship — exacerbated by systemic barriers — can often lead to burnout and instability. By confronting these issues head-on, Raisefashion emphasises that true sustainability extends beyond production and materials, and encompasses the wellbeing of individuals and support systems behind a brand's success. Now, BoF sits down with Harris to explore how the organisation is evolving, the impact of its ongoing initiatives and what's next for its growing community of designers. As sustainability is deprioritised by executives, how are emerging designers stepping up? At Raisefashion, sustainability isn't just a principle — it's a core practice embedded in how our designer's work. Over 90 percent of our masterclass designers source ethically and sustainably, using small-batch production, deadstock materials, local sourcing and artisan-led techniques. For many BIPOC and underrepresented founders, these approaches are born out of necessity due to limited access to traditional infrastructure, capital and large-scale production. These designers are not only practicing sustainability but are actively shaping what it means. Yet, they remain largely excluded from the wider conversation, absent from conferences, award platforms and policy discussions that determine the future of fashion. While some established brands are stepping back from sustainability under economic pressure, these emerging designers are setting new standards. If the industry is serious about building a truly sustainable future, it must do more than acknowledge emerging leaders — it must invest in them. Why is sustainability a key criterion within the Raisefashion programme? Our mission is to empower designers to build businesses that reflect their identities and values — businesses designed for longevity, relevance and impact. The designers we support are thinking globally, not just locally, and their work carries both cultural depth and universal resonance. Sustainability is central to that vision. It's not just about environmental practices — it's about building ethical, emotionally grounded and financially sound businesses. At Raisefashion, we see sustainability as a holistic framework that includes environmental responsibility, transparent production and founder wellbeing. When done right, it becomes a growth strategy — and proof that values-driven brands can compete and lead on a global scale. What are the main challenges faced by designers in the programme? The consistent challenge we hear about is access — to capital, retail partnerships, operational expertise, marketing support and consumers who not only purchase but believe in the brand. But access isn't just about opportunity. It's also about proximity, trust and a clear path forward. For BIPOC and underrepresented founders, these barriers are deeper and more systemic, shaped by a lack of generational wealth, limited networks and historic exclusion. The issue isn't talent or vision — it is navigating an industry not built with them in mind, that too often expects legacy-brand performance without legacy-brand resources. If the industry is serious about building a truly sustainable future, it must do more than acknowledge emerging leaders — it must invest in them. Raisefashion exists to shift that dynamic. Our goal isn't just to open doors but to walk through them alongside our designers. Through strategic support, education, and community, we help them build the language, tools and systems needed to scale on their own terms. Equity isn't about offering a platform — it's about changing the conditions that determine who gets to stay on it. What industry changes could help create a more equitable and accessible environment for BIPOC creatives? Commitment to equity must go beyond language — it must live in budgets, infrastructure and long-term strategy. The industry is good at creating moments, but moments alone won't build futures. We need systems, from dedicated shelf space to long-term mentorships, operational support and sustained marketing investment. Community investment should be standard — not as charity, but as shared responsibility. Underrepresented designers should not only be included during cultural campaigns, awareness months, or when the industry deems it timely. They should be funded, supported and scaled because their businesses are viable and visionary. True equity means giving underrepresented creatives time, trust, education and the space to grow without the pressure to mirror legacy models. The industry must partner in a way that reflects accountability. We all need to ask, 'If it were me, what would I want?' From there, we should act accordingly. How are macro-economic pressures impacting emerging designers when scaling their businesses? Emerging designers are facing a perfect storm — rising production costs, supply chain disruptions, slower retail cycles, shifting consumer behaviours and extended net terms from retailers who once partnered with upfront deposits or Net 30. These compounding pressures make it increasingly difficult for independent brands to sustain growth and meet demand without compromising their creative integrity or financial stability. It's not just about business — it's the message we're sending to the next generation of talent. When we make it this hard to enter or survive in the industry, we risk discouraging brilliant creatives from believing there's a place for them in it. And the cost isn't just theirs — it's one the entire industry will pay. The future of fashion depends on it. At Raisefashion, we support designers to navigate these pressures strategically. Sometimes that means recalibrating go-to-market plans, adjusting wholesale terms, or finding creative ways to maintain visibility. We encourage strategic patience, not reactive decision-making. How is Raisefashion evolving to meet the needs of the next generation of designers? We are evolving in step with the designers, students and stakeholders we serve — listening deeply and responding intentionally. A major development has been the launch of our advisory platform — connecting brands to experts in finance, legal, operations, merchandising and more — offering targeted, real-time guidance. Across every touchpoint, we are building for long-term growth. We have expanded our Designer Production Fund, launched initiatives around mental health and investment readiness, and deepened our masterclass series through new partnerships. Our internship programme offers hands-on, purpose-driven experience, and our New York Fashion Week preview not only presents collections — it teaches designers to approach visibility through the lens of financial strategy. Commitment to equity must go beyond language — it must live in budgets, infrastructure and long-term strategy. Looking ahead, we are integrating digital tools, AI literacy and consumer insight into our programming to prepare our community for the future of commerce. We are building an ecosystem that centres creativity, community and sustainability — one that equips designers to lead with clarity and confidence. Why should retailers and investors better support the emerging talent working toward a sustainable agenda? Success can't be defined by scale alone. It must include cultural relevance, community trust and responsible practices. Conscious brands aren't just responding to trends — they are also building the future with new systems and deeper values. They bring innovation, identity and integrity but, without sustained support, many are stretched thin and pushed to tight margins. These designers aren't replicating legacy models, and they shouldn't. The most compelling aspect is that they are reaching audiences who are finally seeing themselves reflected in fashion. The question isn't what these designers need — we know what real support looks like. The question is, 'Are we willing to give it with intention and consistency?' Support must be structural, not symbolic. That means tailored investment, flexible wholesale terms, co-marketing partnerships and storytelling that reflects their full identities. If we can fund legacy brands through downturns, we can make space for emerging talent to thrive. How does Raisefashion integrate mental health support in its initiatives? Mental health is a foundational component within our work at Raisefashion. Founders — especially from underrepresented communities — often carry the emotional weight of visibility, expectation and exclusion, all while running the day-to-day of a growing business. It's an invisible labour that takes a toll. We have embedded mental wellness into our programmes through access to licensed therapists, peer-to-peer mentorship and workshops on boundaries, rest and resilience. Our approach is practical and compassionate. Founders can't build sustainable businesses if they are burning out behind the scenes. True sustainability includes the wellbeing of the people behind the brand. What role does community and mentorship play in sustaining designers through these challenges? The road to building a brand is long and often isolating. But when designers are surrounded by peers and mentors who understand the journey, that is when everything shifts. We are seeing a return to care and connection — a move away from individualism toward community as a foundation for longevity. I believe that community brings resilience and mentorship brings clarity. We have built a space where support is transformational, where no one has to carry the weight alone and we are working to ensure our designers are seen, supported and held through every stage of their growth. This is not an add-on — it's the core of what we do. We are building ecosystems rooted in belief, business and belonging. Behind every thriving brand is a community that believed in it first. This feature is part of a community partnership with Raisefashion.
Business of Fashion
07-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Maesa Creates and Scales Beauty Brands in a Saturated Market
In 2025, price-sensitive consumers are trying to stretch their money further. Over 60 percent of consumers in the US and UK say they are attempting to save money on discretionary goods 'often' or 'as much as possible,' according to The Business of Fashion (BoF) and McKinsey & Co.'s The State of Fashion 2025 report. However, the notion of 'value' can vary for different consumers. For some, it means buying at off-price retailers. For others, it can be connected to product efficacy, long-lasting properties or simply buying fewer, higher quality items. Meanwhile, the global beauty and personal care market still remains a key spend priority for customers. Globally, it is projected to generate a revenue of more than $677 billion in 2025, according to Euromonitor. Since its inception in 1997, beauty incubator Maesa has worked to provide greater value to end-consumers. It began by manufacturing private label beauty products for high street and specialty retailers, but now in its next phase of growth, Maesa is doubling down on the creation and expansion of its own brands. The company is also partnering with American retailers, including Target and Walmart, to scale its businesses. 'We have more than doubled the business in the last four years,' says Maesa chief financial officer Zaheer Ferguson. 'While our foundations are in private label solutions, our move into creating and accelerating our own brands — either by ourselves or in partnership with our founders — has taken off, and we oversee end-to-end development of the brand including product, marketing, packaging and distribution.' Maesa's CFO Zaheer Fergurson (Maesa) Kristin Ess, which introduced salon-quality haircare into the mass category in 2017, is one example. Today, more than 6,000 units of its 'The One' signature shampoo and conditioner are sold every hour. Maesa's other brands include: actor Ashley Tisdale's wellness brand Being Frenshe; Youtuber Mindy McKnight's haircare brand Hairitage; and fragrance brand Fine'ry, which launched in 2023 and became Target's fastest-growing fragrance brand. These cross-category investments are reflective of Maesa's strategic priority to react quickly to the demands of the market and tap into trending categories, acting as both an operator and incubator for brands. 'We work hand-in-hand with buyers at various retailers, which enables us to be strategic about what [these retailers] and their consumers are looking for,' said Ferguson. 'Our model means we can have targeted support to focus on what things look like in store and how we drive conversion.' Indeed, the launch of perfume brand Fine'ry aligns with increased consumer interest in the fragrance category. Seventy-three percent of Gen-Z and Millennial customers use three or more scents regularly, and 69 percent layer their fragrances, according to a 2024 Boston Consulting Group survey. Meanwhile the hashtag #perfumetok saw a 110 percent year-on-year growth on TikTok in 2024. 'We have an in-house team called Blue Sky, which uses customer insight and a lot of data to think boldly about the categories that will matter. Our size allows for us to react and move quickly, as do the general beauty and wellness objectives we have. There's no constraint on category,' added Ferguson. 'As an incubator, we run an 'always-on' innovation cycle. This gives us the flexibility to be quite reactive and do small runs quickly.' Maesa's CEO Piyush Jain (Maesa) Now, BoF hears from Maesa's chief executive Piyush Jain on how Maesa's business model has evolved to meet consumer and market needs — and the categories and innovations it believes will continue to drive growth in a saturated market. As customers place increasing emphasis on value, how does Maesa define and deliver this need? Value is a frequently misused term. Traditionally, the cheapest brands in the category would sell — or market — themselves as offering 'value for money' because that was the easiest way to communicate their position in the market. In beauty today, consumers are much more informed on what they want. As part of that value piece, they want effective products. At Maesa, our core strategy is democratising access and making prestige trends available at a more accessible price point. Without obvious innovation, technology, or expensive ingredients to justify a higher price point, customers are quick to notice that the pricing doesn't make sense, and seek better value. Take fragrance: great, effective products tend to be priced around $200 to $250, and finding similar quality at $50 price points is more challenging. We saw a gap to operate in this space, particularly as consumers pivoted to using fragrance as a mood enhancer. We work to demonstrate value to consumers by showing up in the categories that matter to them — at competitive price points. How does Maesa prioritise which categories and brands to develop? Our desire to fulfil unmet consumer needs acts as a common thread across our brands. From there, we keep our approach to beauty and wellness broad so we can identify the categories that are ripe for disruption. This is dictated by what we see customers and retailers looking for. Maesa thinks like a portfolio of brands, looking at cross-category innovation and ideas. For example, we've seen a lot of success in the haircare space, so have since leveraged our work in the fragrance category to move into haircare fragrance, bridging two areas of expertise. Another example is the post-pandemic wellness boom, where we saw a need for wellness-oriented brands in the mass channel, and could make the concept more accessible. That's when we launched Being Frenshe. Today, we are leveraging our consumer insights team to identify the next growth spots. In the near future, we are exploring the male grooming space — and Maesa has just entered the intimate wellness category with the launch of our Niches & Nooks brand. How are the channels for reaching beauty consumers evolving? The initial discovery of brands often happens in-store, where we prioritise wide distribution. How we then drive that awareness over time has become a key focus, especially in a saturated market. We are starting to experiment with different methods — we launched our first TV commercial for haircare brand Kristin Ess on Bravo earlier this month, for example. We are using influencers and social media extensively to generate brand heat. Being both an incubator and an operator has allowed us to innovate more quickly — from Blue Sky idea generation to the shop floor in under nine months. We are not chasing mass awareness — that is not the objective. However, we are thinking about tapping into the next level of consumers and meeting those new customers where they are spending time. Maesa's Being Frenshe brand places emphasis on hair wellness How is technology leveraged to scale your own brands? Acknowledging the growth in fragrance, we took a proposition to Target almost five years ago — and the opportunity for a strategy in this category that would allow for their customers to access great fragrance at a reasonable price point. This was the launch of our first fragrance brand Mix:Bar, followed by Fine'ry in 2023. Target remains Fine'ry's exclusive retail partner today. Since launch, we have received a lot of consumer attention, which reflects the demand for this kind of product at this price point. We keep our approach to beauty and wellness broad so we can identify the categories that are ripe for disruption. This is dictated by what we see customers and retailers looking for. In terms of technology, we have leant heavily into artificial intelligence (AI) in our creative campaigns to sustain that attention. It has created a significant amount of high-quality campaign content — and a cost-saving way of maintaining that virality. Technology and data also play a role in how we understand different Fine'ry customers. For example, we have used AI to create personalised fragrance profiles to reflect them and there is still a lot more to explore. How does Maesa approach product innovation when it comes to its own brands? Being both an incubator and an operator has allowed us to innovate more quickly — with our fastest incubation going from Blue Sky idea generation to the shop floor in under nine months. But when we think about innovation, we first consider the DNA of the brand and where the consumers of the brand will give you license to go. For some brands, it is easy to innovate into new products and categories because the essence of the brand doesn't confine itself to a specific vertical. Take Being Frenshe, which started from a broader spectrum. Maesa considered the spaces where consumers desire wellness, which gave us an opportunity to experiment with new product formats, such as the Being Frenshe Hair, Body and Linen Mist. This year, we took the brand into haircare because hair wellness is growing traction among consumers. Wherever wellness travels, we believe we can take the brand. What are the key strategic objectives for Maesa over the medium term? Our goal is to think and operate as a next-gen beauty company, with a broad portfolio across beauty and wellness. Five years ago, we were a small company. Today, we are mid-size and thinking about the next phase of our journey. Making sure our research and development cycle remains quick and competitive is a big part of that — it's how we will build a diversified portfolio of brands and pay close attention to where the consumer is headed. Our ambition is to be the fastest growing beauty company, consistently finding innovative ways to meet unmet consumer needs by, what we call, 'unleashing Maesa Magic.' This is a sponsored feature paid for by Maesa as part of a BoF partnership.
Business of Fashion
01-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Aesop Nurtures Retail Consultants for Head Office Roles
The primary factor impacting retention in retail among US employees is concerns around career development, according to The Business of Fashion's (BoF) The State of Fashion 2025 report, published in partnership with McKinsey & Company. Those surveyed for the report cite limited growth opportunities as a key issue, highlighting an industry-wide hiring and retention challenge — with more than 44 percent of US retail workers planning to leave their jobs within three to six months. Global luxury brand Aesop — which formulates products for the skin, hair and body, as well as fragrance and accessories for the self and home — is tackling this perception of limited career development opportunities in retail. As a cultural pillar and core mission of its business, the company facilitates workplace mobility for employees from the retail environment to head office roles. For instance, Mélanie Hochedez — Aesop's commercial director for the East Coast — joined the business as a regional store manager in New York. Today, she oversees 43 Aesop stores across 11 states. Similarly, Harry Osuna, the brand's human resources advisor in Los Angeles, began as a retail consultant in Hawaii, while John Alunan — a cluster manager in Toronto — started as a store manager and now oversees multiple branches across Canada. At Aesop, the brand aims to view retail staff as its primary talent pool for head office roles due to their firm understanding of the brand's values and history. The retail teams are also nurtured for development through learning opportunities, such as product and customer experience training and people management training. There are also interactions with head office staff through training sessions, in monthly cross-functional meetings or in-store during festive periods (when head office employees support retail staff). Indeed, fostering a positive employee experience across the value chain drives loyalty and long-term tenure, while benefitting the brand and business. Companies with top-quartile employee experience are twice as likely to have top-quartile customer experience, according to The State of Fashion report. Now, BoF sits down with Hochedez, Osuna and Alunan to learn more about their journeys from the retail environment to head office roles and how the company is fostering employee growth across functions and geographies. Mélanie Hochedez, Commercial Director East Coast, New York Mélanie Hochedez, East Coast commercial director at Aesop. (Aesop) Mélanie Hochedez joined Aesop as a regional manager, having relocated to New York from Paris. In 2022, she was promoted to commercial director, East Coast, overseeing 43 stores across 11 states. She has been with the business for almost nine years. How would you describe the culture at Aesop? Over time, I found that Aesop's values matched with my own. There is passion for the product and the customer experience, as well as a level of excellence in the work that you deliver. There is respect for the people that you work with and the communities that you operate in. You are challenged to give your best every day, to attain that excellence and deliver in that respect. These values fuel the culture at Aesop. Employees are also provided with strong support. Inclusivity is a big part of who we are and I feel that Aesop truly value people's opinions and contributions. What competencies have you acquired from retail management? When you look at the commercial business, it all starts with the people. You are managing large, diverse teams, from different age ranges, different backgrounds, different aspirations. It requires a lot of adaptability. Retail management taught me how to manage large and diverse teams. The challenge then is: how do you build, and how do you develop and engage in high-performing teams that are going to deliver a memorable customer experience to drive sales? When it comes to curating and delivering an exceptional customer experience, I see Aesop as a leader in the luxury industry. It's something that we can expand to the full potential in a store, and convey in digital and wholesale channels. Experience is at the core of what we do, and I think that attention to detail, and how you curate and deliver it, is something that Aesop has mastered. How has Aesop facilitated your career progression? I am proactive in terms of being exposed to new challenges — something Aesop encourages. If there is a new opportunity or project, I wanted to be involved. For example, during the pandemic, I expanded my current scope and oversaw the fulfilment centre that processes online orders. Access to different experiences and challenges like this led me to the role that I'm currently in. I also attended educational courses provided by Aesop. For example, I was part of the Aesop Leaders Program which took place in London and a strategic sales management programme with The Harvard Extension Business School in Boston — something that was fully supported and funded by Aesop. Harry Osuna, Human Resources Advisor, Los Angeles Harry Osuna, human resources advisor at Aesop. (Aesop) Harry Osuna joined Aesop as a retail consultant in Hawaii in 2016, later relocating to Los Angeles in the same role. He worked his way up to a store manager position, before moving into the head office as a regional HR coordinator. Now an HR advisor, Osuna will soon move to New York to fulfil the same role in the Aesop US headquarters. What skills did you acquire from a retail career at Aesop? Gaining retail experience at Aesop has been a huge asset throughout my career. It has given me an opportunity to understand the challenges, the strengths and the dynamics that are unique to our operating system and style. Within the head office, I have had the experience to share what I think will work and what needs more attention in other functions. To build this exact awareness, there is a conscious effort for new hires in our office to spend time in-store during onboarding. Coming from retail, I felt like a jack-of-all-trades — you are involved in marketing, you are involved in digital merchandising, you are involved in both the commercial and people aspects of the business. It has facilitated many collaborative instances with other teams. We don't let ourselves be siloed, something which helps with creative solutions. How does Aesop foster connections between retail teams and head office? We have a strong record of people from retail being promoted to head office roles — in my office here in LA, half of my peers come from retail. We hold monthly retail meetings at the office — which are an opportunity for us to build connections with the retail teams. In LA, head office members prepare dinner for the evening, providing a time to talk about commercial results or the newest product launches, and to connect with and build relationships with our retail teams. Plus, high performing retail employees can connect with different functions in the head office through our ambassador programme. In just the last month, two of these employees have been promoted: one to a head office position and another one to a store manager position. How has Aesop facilitated your career progression? As a local HR team, we put on regular up-skilling workshops specifically for people managers in our retail stores. One of them is called People Matter, where we try to develop the capability and confidence of managers to embrace people managing at Aesop. We want to bring out the best in them, facilitate their personal growth, and establish a culture of excellence. In our annual performance and development cycle, employees, with their managers, set goals for the year ahead relating to our day-to-day. This process is also about creating specific moments throughout the year to talk about your career at Aesop — or even your career outside Aesop. We offer access to learning and development training through LinkedIn Learning, which is available to everyone in the organisation — including retail teams. Employees can access an enormous library of modules, information and useful tools for self-development. John Alunan, Cluster Manager, Toronto John Alunan, cluster manager at Aesop. (Aesop) John Alunan joined Aesop as a store manager in 2019. He managed several high-volume stores in Canada during his tenure, and held a multi-unit store manager title before being promoted to cluster manager in 2024, where he oversees multiple stores. What competencies have you acquired from a career in retail at Aesop? As a store manager, you have to wear many different hats. In this environment, there are no aisles to hide behind and there is no stock room to hide in — you are working with all kinds of people all the time, and you become really good at it. At one moment you are working with IT, then you might play the role of a merchandiser or a trainer. I think all of this solidifies an understanding of the roles that each person in our head office has and how their support helps the store succeed. From my experience in-store, I was able to work with many different personalities and learn from the best of them. For example, some people were good with project management, and I was inspired by that. Others were good with communication, so I worked on how I communicate myself. How has Aesop facilitated your career progression? Growth is never a matter of one person pulling someone up — it has to be two people working together to progress. During my tenure, I am immensely lucky to have the same mentor throughout my six-year journey. My direct manager at Aesop started about a week before I did and I feel like he has passed on his entire knowledge of luxury retail channels to me since. I have been able to capitalise on his wealth of experience in terms of navigating the nuances to succeed in this environment, and learn from his strategic thinking involved in staying ahead in this market. Throughout this relationship, I have always received constructive feedback and built the confidence to pursue new avenues. I am trusted to take risks and course correct where needed — that is so valuable and I'm so grateful for it. What excites you about the future of working at Aesop? What excites me the most is the L'Oréal integration. I am excited about the new chapter Aesop is about to enter and how opportunities will present themselves in terms of merging expertise in beauty with Aesop's unique values and culture. Aesop's culture has been so consistent over my six years here. I don't foresee that changing, but I am looking forward to seeing how we are going to inject L'Oréal's vision into what we are doing at Aesop. This is a sponsored feature paid for by Aesop as part of a BoF partnership.
Business of Fashion
28-04-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Brands Build Genuine Communities
The fashion industry is going to have to learn the real meaning of community in 2025. Even before US president Donald Trump's tariffs roiled global markets and generated widespread uncertainty, executives saw consumer confidence and appetite to spend as the greatest risks to fashion's growth, according to The State of Fashion 2025 by The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company. Shoppers pressured by years of rising costs have been cutting back, trading down and seeking out the best deals, regardless of which brand offers them. The political and economic turmoil only amplify the challenges facing fashion. Retaining customers is becoming more difficult at a time when acquiring new shoppers continues to be expensive. Consultancy Capgemini found in a 2024 survey that over 53 percent of consumers switch brands and retailers regularly — despite subscribing to their loyalty programmes. 'Loyalty is not a new concept, but for too long, it has been rooted in just how much a customer spends with you,' said Ty Haney, whose second act after leaving her brand Outdoor Voices in 2020 was to found Tyb, a digital community-rewards platform whose clients include beauty brands such as Glossier and retailers like Urban Outfitters. ADVERTISEMENT Brands need a better way to keep their shoppers engaged and coming back. They need to build true communities. Today, consumers are searching for genuine brand connections centred on a sense of camaraderie and purpose. A 2024 survey by Edelman, for example, found that 84 percent of consumers across all age groups said they need to share values with a brand in order to buy it. Fashion companies that understand how to address these consumers and pull on the right emotional levers can turn first-time buyers into repeat customers who commit to brands that stand for something larger than product. These customers can also become a brand's most passionate advocates and ambassadors. But creating real community around a brand takes a lot more than hosting another in-store event or collecting followers on Instagram. Too often the term has been reduced to little more than a marketing buzzword. While there's no one formula for success, the approaches that tend to create the strongest communities in fashion and beauty fall into three camps: activity-driven, typically based on a foundation of sports or other physical activities; personality-driven, coalescing around a magnetic brand founder or leader; and values-based, where customers congregate around a brand because of shared beliefs or perspectives. The categories aren't mutually exclusive, however, and each approach provides insights that are more widely applicable. This case study explores the community-building methods of brands including the fast-rising Bandit Running and outdoor label Arc'teryx; intimates retailer Aerie and inclusive beauty brand Topicals; and popular designer label KidSuper, whose animating force is the personality of founder Colm Dillane. While they have different methods and sometimes different goals in mind, each has found ways to create deeper connections with customers that offer lessons about what community means and how brands can cultivate it.
Campaign ME
30-01-2025
- Business
- Campaign ME
A generational shift towards the 'Silver Generation' is inevitable for fashion brands
Yasmine Koujou, Senior Data and Research Specialist at Webedia Arabia on a generational shift towards the 'Silver Generation' is inevitable for fashion brands. There is no denying that the fashion industry is facing an uncertain year ahead, as leading fashion brands seem to have reached a bump. Opportunities for growth remain on the horizon, but the economic instability and changing consumer behaviours and interests mean that change should be smartly endorsed by these brands, including the target audience they have long bet on! According to 'The State of Fashion 2025' report co-published by McKinsey & Company and the Busine
