Eater applauds Graeter's Skyline ice cream, says Travis Kelce can 'eat his words'
Amy McCarthy, a reporter for Eater, the national food and dining brand owned by Vox Media, admitted she was unsure about the new collaboration between the two Cincinnati brands, but ultimately gave a glowing review. She dubbed the treat "a dose of comforting nostalgia for a lifelong Cincinnatian" and "a fun way to introduce a total stranger to the magic of Skyline chili."
"In the ice cream, I tasted allspice, nutmeg, and cinnamon, maybe a little clove. That combo is, of course, also extremely popular in desserts and baked goods, and it makes total sense in a pint of ice cream," she wrote, noting there isn't actual chili in the treat.
The Dallas-based food reporter identified a "quite pleasant" savory taste in the ice cream that keeps the treat from tasting too much like eggnog or cinnamon rolls. She also applauded the brands' use of the classic Skyline oyster crackers for a hint of saltiness that "somehow remained crispy despite being smothered in cream and frozen."
McCarthy's review, published Wednesday, went on to criticize Kelce, a University of Cincinnati Bearcats alum, for writing off the Greater's/Skyline collab as "disgusting" in his "New Heights" podcast Wednesday.
"Perhaps if the Chiefs win their record third consecutive Super Bowl, Travis Kelce ... will also be ready to eat his words and celebrate with a nice, cool bowl of Skyline chili ice cream," McCarthy wrote.
The star Kansas City Chiefs tight end, who is a documented Cincinnati-style chili hater, said in Wednesday's podcast episode that there was no chance he would try the flavor. Meanwhile, his older brother, Jason Kelce, the retired Philadelphia Eagles great and fellow UC alum, said he's, "a sucker for these stupid new food item things," name checking Taco Bell's Doritos Locos Taco.
According to McCarthy, though, Graeter's Skyline Spice ice cream sets itself apart from other brand collaborations.
"There's a sense with a lot of these 'brand collabs' that they're just marketing stunts ... but that's not the case here."
Skyline Spice is currently available in 5-ounce scoops at all Skyline restaurants. It is also available to purchase by the pint or by the scoop at all Graeter's scoop shops and by the pint at select Kroger stores throughout Cincinnati, Columbus, Indianapolis and Louisville.
Availability may vary by location, though, so it's always best to call your local store and/or restaurant ahead of time.
The new flavor is also available nationwide through Graeters.com.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Eater applauds Graeter's Skyline ice cream, criticizes Travis Kelce
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