Beauty at a price: the allure and risks of South Africa's cosmetic surgery craze

IOL News

15-05-2025

A household name in South Africa, Khanyi Mbau is widely recognised for frequently having cosmetic surgery.
Image: @thenaughtyhun/X
We live in a time where scrolling through Instagram or TikTok is like flipping through a modern-day beauty magazine.
Flawless skin, perfect bodies and 'ageless' faces seem almost ordinary, especially when celebrities like Khanyi Mbau openly share their cosmetic journeys online.
But as the allure of cosmetic procedures grows, so do questions around self-worth, societal pressure and the gap between expectation and reality.
For many South Africans, it's easy to relate when public figures discuss hair loss (traction alopecia, anyone?), pigmentation or the desire to age gracefully.
Yet, as cosmetic surgery becomes more mainstream, the line between empowerment and insecurity gets blurry. Mbau, a household name in Mzansi, has become synonymous with transformation, sometimes controversially so.
Her openness about skin lightening, fillers, Botox and a range of surgeries (from blepharoplasty to breast augmentation) has sparked both admiration and confusion.
As reported, she's suggested she's had 'maybe 20 plus' procedures. When the final results are revealed online, South Africans often find themselves asking: Is the reality ever as extraordinary as the expectation?
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Mbau recently underwent blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) and a lip lift in September 2024. She also got a fox eye procedure during the same time. These procedures were performed to address bagginess under her eyes, remove excess skin on her upper eyelids, and enhance the shape of her lips.
Image: Screenshot/X
The numbers support this growing trend.
According to the Global and South African Statistics on Aesthetic/Cosmetic Procedures from the ISAPS 2023 Survey, South Africa mirrors global trends, with botulinum toxin (botox) and hyaluronic acid (fillers) being popular non-surgical procedures, and eyelid surgery, breast augmentation, and liposuction being favoured surgical procedures.
But unlike Hollywood, where the culture of 'tweakments' is almost expected, South Africa's relationship with cosmetic enhancement is layered with cultural, economic and social nuances.
Dr Cebi Sibisi, a Durban-based dermatologist and educator, shares: 'Social media certainly amplifies the pressure to look a certain way by constantly showcasing idealised standards, lighter skin, small waists, fuller hips and perfect breasts.
"These visuals drive feelings of inadequacy and fuel the desire to conform.'
According to Sibisi, what we're seeing isn't new. Procedures like breast augmentation have been around for years, but social media has made them more visible and accessible, particularly to younger generations and communities of colour.
This rings especially true for South Africa, a country where colourism and Eurocentric beauty standards are still deeply entrenched. Lightening creams are commonly advertised, and the desire for certain features is often linked to notions of success or attractiveness.
Empowerment or external validation?
Why do some people, especially celebrities, go to such lengths?
Sibisi explains: 'Self-perception is a major factor. Some want personal satisfaction, like restoring their body after childbirth or weight loss. For others, it's about external validation and fitting in.'
But she cautions that if the pursuit becomes obsessive, where no result is ever enough, it starts to cross into dangerous psychological territory.
According to mental health professionals, repeated plastic surgery can sometimes be linked to a condition called Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD). This flaw is often imagined or exaggerated in their mind, and no amount of surgery can "fix" the way they feel.
People with BDD often seek cosmetic procedures, but rarely feel satisfied with the results. Their perception of their bodies remains distorted, so the cycle continues.
Mbau reportedly wanted a more permanent solution to her facial appearance rather than relying on fillers and Botox
Image: @thenaughtyhub/X screenshot
A famous example is Jocelyn Wildenstein, who underwent many surgeries and ended up with a very unusual, catlike face. Her story shows how the desire for continuous change, without limits, can sometimes lead to extreme results.
Bombarded with Instagram filters and beauty influencers, it's easy to feel like you're not good enough. For some, especially those already struggling with self-esteem, this pressure leads to perfectionism.
Surgery becomes a tool to chase an impossible idea of beauty. Unfortunately, perfection doesn't exist and chasing it can become emotionally and physically harmful.
There are a few reasons why stopping isn't easy:
The "just one more" mentality: Much like dieting or gym goals, people convince themselves that just one more tweak will finally make them happy.
Diminished return on satisfaction: The high from changing one thing fades, and the dissatisfaction returns, so they move on to the next procedure.
Normalising change: Over time, the face or body starts to look 'normal' to the person, even if it looks extreme to others. They lose perspective.
The double-edged sword of public scrutiny
It's not just about the procedures but also the aftermath. Public figures face relentless criticism, either for 'doing too much' or not enough.
This scrutiny can lead to anxiety, regret and a persistent sense of inadequacy. Social media is a constant feedback loop; validation is fleeting, but criticism lingers.
Addiction to perfection: When is enough, enough? For some, the pursuit of perfection becomes an endless cycle.
'When someone is never satisfied, no matter how many procedures they've had, it's often a sign of deeper issues,' says Sibisi.
Financial freedom combined with psychological distress can lead to repeated surgeries, sometimes at the expense of both physical and mental health.
"The truth is, there's no simple answer. For some, like Mbau, surgery is a form of self-expression and empowerment. For others, it can highlight vulnerabilities or societal pressures. It's a mix of an expression of confidence and control, but also a response to intense scrutiny.'
The key, perhaps, is finding balance, embracing individuality while resisting the urge to chase ever-shifting ideals.