Sirloin? No. Top chef says you should be buying this cheaper cut instead

Sky News

29-05-2025

Every Thursday, our Money blog team interviews chefs from around the UK, hearing about their cheap food hacks and more. This week, we chat to Brian Hennessy, head chef at the acclaimed Winter Garden Restaurant in London.
My favourite cheap substitute is... using bavette, also known as flank, as the cut of meat for steak and chips. It is often overlooked but the flavour is beautiful. You are also getting a range of different textures in one single cut. I'll take it over a sirloin any day of the week.
My secret crispy chilli oil, no longer to be a secret, makes any meal better... I batch-make it and store it. Added to almost anything, it can make a meal. From a little bit in scrambled egg in the morning (my personal favourite) to popping it in a stir-fry or pasta. There's no need for any expensive products - just add a few tablespoons and it will add the perfect amount of umami to any dish at home.
100g whole dried chilli (seeds removed)
40g caster sugar
75g garlic
500g grapeseed oil
5g black pepper
6g cumin
12g dried porcini
200g crispy shallot
20g salt
Blitz the chillies (or chop) until flakes. Thinly slice your garlic and gently fry in the grapeseed oil. Mix the salt, spices and porcini powder. Combine with the dried chilli. Once garlic is golden brown and crispy, pour over chilli mix. Mix in crispy shallots.
Young chefs shouldn't worry about money... your position or the hours when choosing where to work early on in your career. Work for the best possible chef you can learn from. Having worked under chefs like John Williams, Spencer Metzger and Gareth Byrne, their investment in young chefs and ability to pass on their knowledge has been invaluable to me. Money and everything else will follow suit down the line.
One restaurant that's worth spending big on... Cocina Hermanos Torres in Barcelona. Worth it, including the plane journey. Went on a whim last year and it was simply mind-blowing. You go into almost a lab-type restaurant, but the friendly service makes you instantly at ease. They proceed to serve you food and ingredients you recognise but in the most innovative way. We had a pea and ham dish, sounds simple - easily the best dish I have ever eaten.
The worst type of customer is… those who are late without calling and then demanding upon arrival. It's both a lack of respect for the staff and their fellow diners. It has the potential to ruin multiple dining experiences, not just their own.
It's not exactly a secret ingredient, but the sheer amount of salted butter used certainly is... a secret kept from the guy writing the cookbooks. It's not just great for taste but also texture!
French cuisine is often associated with pricey, fancy ingredients... but classical French cooking is deep-rooted in maximising the use of every part of the animal and veg. We have become too used to over-prepared products in the supermarket, but with some basic knowledge and skills, you can really stretch the ingredients in your weekly shop.
My chef hero is… Daniel Calvert, the only British chef to hold three Michelin stars outside the UK, in Tokyo. The level of precision in his work is awe-inspiring. He went from sous chef at 23 at Per Se in New York, then back to being a commis chef at Epicure in Paris to learn traditional techniques, which shows his passion and desire to improve and learn. I believe his journey should be an inspiration for any young chef.
A tip non-chefs might not know is... add acid. Don't be afraid to add that touch of acid, whether it be vinegar or lemon juice, to a sauce, soups, broths or a piece of fish. It can make the world of a difference to any product and make a dish go from good to great.
My favourite cookbook is... The French Laundry by Thomas Keller. It is just a timeless classic. It's a book you can always go back to for inspiration and proves that trends will come and go, but true class is permanent.
My go-to cheap eat out... is Oki in Wimbledon, south London. £8 buffet-style Japanese, I often go for the katsu curry. Why I love it is not just the convenience, but it being so, so good. Perfect to pick up on the way home after a long day at work. They are far from shy on portions also!