Maadi's Bakery 204 is Where Artisanal Sourdough Rises to the Occasion

CairoScene

27-01-2025

We know that, somewhere out there, Nara Smith is probably shedding a tear of pride at the thought of 204's golden loaves.
In a quiet corner of El Maadi, the kitchen at Bakery 204 hums with activity, where sourdough loaves are carefully nurtured over three days. Each loaf reflects the craft of fermentation, as wild yeasts and lactic acid bacteria transform flour and water into bread of exceptional character. Saeid Rahal, the baker behind Bakery 204, has built a reputation for his dedication to this process.
'There's no other method for baking that gives you such complex, deep flavor, nor for making bread with as much nutritional density, health benefit, or real, proper fermentation,' Rahal tells SceneEats. Unlike bread made with commercial yeast, which relies solely on the action of yeast for rising, sourdough undergoes a slow fermentation process. This process develops nuanced flavors and results in bread that is both more digestible and nutrient-rich.
Born and raised in Aswan, Egypt, Rahal's connection to breadmaking began in his early years. He worked alongside his family from the age of 12, learning the craft from his mother and grandmother, both skilled in making traditional sourdough, known locally as عيش شمس. This family recipe would later become the foundation of Bakery 204. Rahal's brother, formerly a chef, also played a significant role in shaping his journey, contributing to a family legacy rooted in the art of baking.
Rahal's professional career spans over 15 years and includes positions at some of the region's top hotels, such as serving as a junior sous chef for bakeries at the Four Seasons. His work took him to Dubai and Saudi Arabia, where he consulted for central kitchens and culinary schools. Since 2015, he has traveled annually to France to train at artisanal bakeries in Dijon and Lyon, experiences that have further refined his approach to breadmaking.
The science of sourdough fermentation plays a key role in its distinct flavor and nutritional benefits. Its microbial ecosystem of wild yeasts and lactic acid bacteria leavens the bread and creates its signature tang. 'It's like one single voice versus a symphony,' Rahal explains. At Bakery 204, the process reflects the environment and the baker's hands, a collaboration between human touch and microbial activity. Microbiologists have shown that sourdough starters can uniquely reflect their makers, with microorganisms transferring between the dough and the baker's hands. This interaction adds a personal dimension to every loaf. 'This isn't just bread,' Rahal says. 'It's life unfolding in front of our eyes.'
The roots of sourdough bread trace back to ancient Egypt. One amateur Egyptologist famously revived a 4,500-year-old sourdough starter from vessels found in archaeological sites. Using ancient techniques and Emmer wheat—a staple grain of ancient Egypt—he successfully recreated loaves that demonstrated the sophistication of early Egyptian breadmaking.
Bakery 204 builds on this heritage while embracing contemporary innovation. Crackling baguettes, airy ciabatta, and focaccia studded with kalamata olives or sun-dried tomatoes showcase Rahal's technical skill and appreciation for flavor. Each loaf is crafted with Rahal's sourdough starter, highlighting the transformative power of fermentation.
The viennoiseries at Bakery 204 reflect equal attention to detail. Croissants are delicately layered, buttery, and light. Almond croissants, raspberry danishes, and pains au chocolat are balanced and precise, reflecting years of experience and respect for traditional techniques.
Building Bakery 204 presented its challenges. 'I started out delivering bread on a bike, being the chef, the steward, the supplier, everything,' Rahal recalls. Managing every detail while maintaining quality demanded resilience. Today, Bakery 204 employs 15 people, but Rahal remains deeply involved. He starts his day at 4 a.m., kneading dough, baking bread, and overseeing operations to ensure every loaf meets his exacting standards.
Rahal encourages his customers to embrace the idea of slow living, taking the time to appreciate the care and skill that go into every loaf. When asked about future plans, he emphasizes his desire to educate people about sourdough and its benefits rather than expanding for the sake of growth.
At Bakery 204, Rahal remains dedicated to his craft, balancing tradition with innovation and sharing his passion for sourdough with every loaf.