Why Hong Kong auction houses are curating their jewellery collections for investment value: gems in vibrant colours from heritage brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are now the way to go
Increasingly, auction houses are focusing on jewellery from renowned maisons such as
Cartier , Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari, which command premium prices due to their heritage, craftsmanship and market recognition. These brands are regarded as safe investments – akin to blue-chip stocks – thanks to their sustained global demand.
At Sotheby's High Jewelry auction in Hong Kong in April, the top lot was the important Écho earrings by Cartier, each suspending a 6.32-carat pear-shaped fancy intense pink diamond and a 6.03 carat pear-shaped diamond in D colour and internally flawless. This spectacular pair fetched HK$22.33 million. Intense bidding also drove up the price of Van Cleef & Arpels' Palais de la Chance brooch to HK$2.03 million.
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The Palais de la Chance brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels was sold at Sotheby's where intense bidding drove the price up to HK$2.03 million. Photo: Handout
These sales highlight how auction houses are curating pieces from brands that carry historical weight, ensuring resale value and long-term appreciation. Collectors increasingly view these
jewels as tangible assets that hold or increase their worth amid economic uncertainties.
The emphasis on top-quality gemstones – particularly rare, unheated and certified stones – further cements their status as investment-grade assets. Hong Kong auctions consistently spotlight gems with exceptional clarity and colour, as well as those from auspicious origins, all factors that help give a stone rarity and market resilience.
Over the years, successful sales have demonstrated that auction houses prioritise coloured gemstones with impeccable provenance and gemological certifications from world-renowned laboratories such as SSEF and
Gübelin . These assurances of authenticity and rarity appeal to collectors who view unheated, natural gems – particularly those from historic mines – as finite resources with appreciating value, especially in Asia.
Christie's imminent Magnificent Jewels live auction in Hong Kong on May 27 will showcase The Regent Kashmir, a 35.09-carat sapphire of historic significance, estimated at HK$65 million to HK$95 million and celebrated for its velvety blue hue, exceptional clarity and exceptionally rare origin. Also offered is The Regal Ruby, estimated at HK$50 million to HK$80 million, a certified unheated 13.22-carat ruby of extraordinary rarity. Other highlights include a 10.35-carat Colombian no-oil emerald and diamond ring – estimate HK$6.8 million to HK$9.8 million.
While investment value remains paramount, auction houses are also curating collections with notable aesthetics – pieces distinguished by vibrant colours that evoke emotional and artistic resonance. This trend aligns with collectors' desire for jewellery that is not only financially sound but also visually striking. Auction catalogues often highlight gemstones in bold hues labelled an 'artist's palette'.
One example is a rare 181.61 carat unmounted Paraiba-type tourmaline by contemporary fine jeweller Kat Florence, available at Bonhams' Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite sale on May 22. This unheated and untreated Mozambique-origin gemstone boasts high clarity, a fine cut, and an internally flawless natural greenish-blue hue. It is offered with an estimate of HK$3 million to HK$5 million.
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