Few can trace footprints in the sand. When India-Pakistan tensions rise, Gujarat calls on ‘Pagis'

The Print

13-05-2025

Gujarat shares around 512 kilometres of land and maritime boundary with Pakistan, making it one of the most vital borders of India. The land border between the two nations is mostly the Rann of Kachchh, a salt marsh land in the Thar Desert, that is difficult for forces to navigate.
Like in other states, patrolling in the border areas here too had been increased, but in the white desert of Gujarat, the scene is like no other.
Limbala, Rann of Kachchh, Gujarat: In the peak of summer last week, a man adept at tracing footprints in the desert accompanied Border Security Force (BSF) personnel taking stock of the situation at Gujarat's international border as India-Pakistan tensions surged.
The forces thus take help from local residents who have crossed thousands of kilometres in the desert. They are known as Pagis (meaning guide or scout).
Pagis, known for their skill of tracking people through their footprints, are just a handful in number, speared across the border areas of Gujarat. They can trace footprints in the desert or marshy land, even calculate the time when a person walked there, and also tell their gender.
The Gujarat Police have a post called Pagi. According to the man who accompanied the BSF personnel, around 25 Pagis were recruited in 2014. They have since been working not just as police personnel but also as guides to the BSF. Each police station near Gujarat's international border has two-three Pagis.
As tensions escalated on the India-Pakistan border, the Pagis were roped in by the BSF to patrol the desert.
Speaking to ThePrint, the man mentioned earlier, who was recruited in 2014, said that over the last week, their work has doubled. 'We used to go for regular patrolling with the BSF. Like once in a month or twice in a week. Since last week, we have been regularly asked to accompany the officers.'
'Two days ago, we went to the desert on a bike, up till where it was motorable. After that, we walked for two-three kilometers. While on the walk, we found the land to be wet, and it was difficult for anybody to cross that area because of the chances of sinking in. The officer who came with us made a report saying that this land is not accessible to reach the border. I also had to submit a report at the station about the route,' he added.
Every three years, the battalion change in the border area makes it difficult for anybody to master the routes of the desert. The Pagis thereby come handy. They visit from one village to another, gathering information, concentrating on the border areas. They also keep a list of cars used in the neighbourhood by the villagers.
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History of Pagis
In 1962, Ranchor Raberi, a local from Suigam village, was hired by the Gujarat Police to help forces navigate the desert. Born and brought up in the white desert, he stood out in his village for his curiosity and knowledge of the landscape.
ThePrint spoke to his great-great-grandson Vishnu, who is now a Pagi with the state police.
Vishnu said that during that time, there was no fencing at the border and a lot of smuggling took place. The police thus started taking regular help from Ranchor, and he helped in finding the smugglers by tracing footprints and providing information.
Ranchor was particularly helpful to the Indian Army during the 1965 and 1971 wars with Pakistan.
Vishnu said that in 1965, during Pakistan's Operation Desert Hawk in the Rann of Kachchh, it captured one of the border areas of Banaskantha region, Vighakot. The road to Vighakot was bombed and thus it was not possible for the Indian Army to reach there. The forces had to navigate their way through the marshy white desert. They reached out to the Gujarat Police, and then Ranchor was given the responsibility of leading the army inside.
Before the army, Ranchor reached the location, said Vishnu. 'He knew the language and was aware of the demographics of the area. He was a people's man.'
'Dadaji gathered all information, the number of soldiers and battalions and gave them to the army. He found a safer and shorter route for the forces. With this info, the army was able to defeat Pakistan from a better position,' he added.
Ranchor was also helpful in the 1971 war. When it broke out, the battalion posted in Rajasthan was asked not to move without Ranchor, according to Vishnu.
'When Pakistan surprisingly attacked the armoury of the Indian Army, Dadaji carried arms and ammunition for the Indian Army to Nadabet at night as it was difficult to find a route in the desert,' said Vishnu.
After the war ended, General Sam Manekshaw, who had led the forces during the war, honoured Ranchor. 'This was the time when General Manekshaw gave the title of Pagi to my Dadaji,' said Vishnu.
'During his last days, General Manekshaw kept on saying 'Pagi, Pagi'. He was very fond of Ranchordas Pagi,' he told ThePrint. Ranchor died in 2013, living over 100 years.
One of his sons became a camel rider with the Gujarat Police while the other was a home guard at the border. Today, his fourth-generation descendants aspire to join the Indian Army.
(Edited by Nida Fatima Siddiqui)
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