I visited India's cleanest city – the rest of the country should take note

Telegraph

03-04-2025

The Indian cities of Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and Mumbai tend to dominate most travellers' itineraries, and why shouldn't they? Dynamic, full of history and overflowing with character, they represent some of India's finest qualities. But with all that dynamism comes inevitable hustle and bustle – rushing traffic, thick smog – which can quickly become overwhelming.
There is an alternative, however. The intriguing city of Indore, located in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, has all this colour and chaos but on a far smaller and less intimidating scale. Most notably, it is astonishingly well kept – and has even won the title of India's cleanest city for seven years running.
I had heard about this accolade, but it wasn't until I experienced the city first-hand that I understood the award's significance. The cleanliness here is not just a superficial polish; it goes right down to the roots.
I arrived to find streets that were litter-free; no festering garbage dumps, no acrid stench of rotting waste, footpaths immaculate, and every public toilet (often the Achilles' heel of Indian cities) was spotlessly clean.
Even the walls of buildings, typically marred by paan (betel leaf) stains in some cities, were instead beautified with murals and graffiti inspired by India's freedom struggles, spirituality and folk art.
An oasis of clean
A decade ago, Indore was just another bustling Indian city, ranking a dismal 149th in the government's Swachhata Sarvekshan (cleanliness index). By 2016, it had climbed to 25th, and in 2017, it claimed the top spot – where it remains unchallenged.
The secret? A citywide system that leaves nothing to chance. Every household and business separates dry and wet waste, which is collected twice daily by GPS-tracked trucks. Bio-CNG plants convert rubbish into fuel or compost, a strict plastic ban keeps streets spotless, and even wastewater is treated and reused – earning Indore the country's first 'Water Plus' certification, awarded to cities that keep drains and rivers free of sewage.
More than 10,000 safai mitras (cleanliness workers) work around the clock, backed by automated street sweepers and mobile composting vans near food markets. But it is not just a policy – it is an ethos, too. Here, littering is not ignored; it is called out, whether by shopkeepers, hawkers, or auto-rickshaw drivers.
Of course, India's classic Golden Triangle and the beautiful backwaters of Kerala should never be skipped over – but pairing them with a visit to Indore promises a different perspective on the country.
It's not only a model of cleanliness, but also a cultural and culinary heavyweight: the Maratha rulers left behind resplendent palaces; its temples stand as architectural gems; and its food scene is of such renown that locals take their street snacks as seriously as Parisians do their pastries. Here's how to get the most out of India's cleanest city.
What to see and do
At Indore's heart lies a plethora of old relics, including the seven-storey Rajwada Palace, a mixed bag of ruin and renovation. Commissioned more than two centuries ago by Malhar Rao Holkar of the Holkar dynasty (the Maratha rulers of Indore), the highlight is the upstairs museum housing royal paraphernalia including portraits, weaponry and heirloom jewels. In the evening, a sound-and-light show brings the palace's history to life.
A short walk away, the huge and serene chattris (canopies on cenotaphs) of Indore royalty rise beside the river Kahn. They are best seen at dusk, when the cinematic sunsets spill across the river.
For more traces of the past, the nearby Central Museum holds an eclectic array of medieval and early Hindu and Jain sculptures, along with coins, weapons and artefacts from the Holkar dynasty.
To the south-west of the city, Lal Bagh Palace – Holkar's residence after Rajwada, until 1978 – stands as a design masterpiece, showcasing a fascination with all things European, from Italian marble columns, Murano chandeliers and Belgian stained glass to Rococo ceilings, Greek mythology murals, and entrance gates modelled after those of London's Buckingham Palace.
If you'd like to get to know Indore's history in detail, Heritage Hindustan will take you on an insightful heritage walking tour.
For a spiritual interlude, visit Kanch Mandir, a jewel-box of a Jain temple where every surface – doors, windows, ceilings, images of Jain Tirthankaras (spiritual teachers), and even floors – is made of colourful glass; or the Bada Ganpati Temple, said to house the largest idol of Ganesh (the elephant-headed Hindu god) ever installed inside a temple.
The Annapurna Temple – dedicated to the Hindu goddess of food and nourishment – is also worth visiting for the otherworldly cocktail of intricate carvings and sculpted pillars.
For a green escape, visit the 800-acre Sirpur Lake, a designated Ramsar Site (an internationally important wetland). It is the best place to spy on various domestic and migratory bird species, including egrets, herons, yellow and black bittern, Eurasian wigeon and northern pintail, and many butterflies.
Indore is also a treasure trove for handcrafted textiles and saris, with MT Cloth Market offering the best finds. The city also has a GI (geographical indication) tag for its handcrafted leather toys, a curated selection of which can be found at Madhya Pradesh state emporium, Mrignayani.
Where (and what) to eat
If cleanliness is Indore's pride, street food is its soul – and, thanks to the city's exceptional hygiene standards, a safe and practical meal-time option for travellers.
You will find the city's finest fare at Sarafa Bazaar – a jewellery market by day, and a buzzing street-food court by night. Stop by the Joshi Dahi Vada stall to watch the cook masterfully twirl the plate of dahi bada (fried lentil balls in spiced yogurt) without spilling a drop, and be sure to try bhutte ka khees (a grated corn dish with spices and coconut), before stopping by Mahakal Coconut Crush, where the owner theatrically slices coconut to prepare creamy flavoured drinks.
There are also numerous pizza centres, where kulhad pizza (an Indian-spiced take on pizza, served in an earthen pot) is served with pride, while those who prefer sweet things should pay a visit to Prakash Kulfi, known for its 24-carat gold-leaf kulfi (a kind of rich, creamy ice cream, often served with nuts).
On the other side of town is outdoor food market Chappan Dukan (literally '56 shops'), another pilgrimage site for foodies, where you will find crispy-soft kopra pattice (coconut-stuffed potato cutlet) and zesty dal bafla (baked dough served with lentil curry) at Vijay Chaat House; shahi shikanji (a thick, saffron-infused milkshake) at Madhuram Sweets; and Indori snacks such as chiwda (savoury spiced rice flakes) at Om Namkeen.
The star turn, however, is the 'hot dogs' (vegetarian burgers made with crisp potato patties) at Johny Hot Dog – an outlet which has even outsold the likes of McDonald's and Burger King in Asia.
A trip to Indore is not complete without trying its signature breakfast – poha (fluffy, spiced flattened rice) and jalebi (crispy sweet spirals of dough).
One of the city's oldest and most beloved spots is Prashant Nashta Corner, a restaurant in the Rajwada area which has been serving this classic combo since 1949 – though it's worth saving rooms for a stop at nearby Lal Balti Ki Kachori, which fries up some of the city's best kachoris – golden, flaky pastry discs stuffed with spiced lentils or onion, accompanied by bold curry and tangy chutneys.
Essentials
Sayaji Hotel has doubles from £98 per night. Sheraton Grand Palace Indore has doubles from £121 per night. Air India flies from London to Indore (via Mumbai or Delhi) from £521 return.