Spain's most decadent foodie town isn't where you think it is
Amongst its ornate churches and centuries-old ruins, Astorga's food scene is certain to impress even the most fastidious of foodies, with a wealth of time-honored dishes found across its many shops, bars, and restaurants.
(Been to Barcelona? Now try Spain's lesser-known cities) Sampling Astorga's most iconic dish
While Castilla y León offers numerous opportunities to savor regional favorites like roasted suckling pig and garlic soup, the crown jewel of Astorga is undoubtedly cocido maragato, a three-course meal served with an intriguing twist.
What makes cocido maragato unique is the order in which it's eaten,' says Natividad González, co-owner and chef at local restaurants Casa Maragata I and II. 'You start with the meats, then move on to the vegetables, and finish with the soup. Dessert comes last, of course—custard served with a traditional Maragato cake called roscón.' Cocido maragato is a three-course culinary experience not to be missed when visiting Astorga. Before dessert at a restaurant, waiters usually serve a soup made with the broth from chickpeas, accompanied by noodles and various meats and vegetables. Photograph By Juan Manuel Aparicio Diez/ Shutterstock
As with all Spanish cocidos, this hearty dish is prepared in a large pot, allowing the meat and vegetables to simmer together for hours to achieve the most tender mouthfeel possible. While the dish is best known for its reverse style of presentation, it's also renowned for the exceptionally diverse range of proteins that are present during the first course. Diners are served nine types of meat at once.
After a hearty portion of pork sausage, pork belly, and chicken mingled with other meats, guests can look forward to a plate packed full of succulent chickpeas and cabbage, all culminating with a bowl of savory, noodle-filled broth—the final product serving as the perfect representation of one of Spain's most renowned regional meals.
(This Spanish dining tradition is one of its best-kept secrets) Astorga residents head to the city's main market, Mercadillo de Astorga (Astorga Market), every Tuesday, where they can pick up a variety of goods, including fruits, vegetables, meats, and cheese. Photograph By Charles O. Cecil/Alamy Exploring Astorga's Historic Chocolate Industry
Once you've sampled some of Astorga's most notable savory dishes, you'll likely be on the lookout for something sweet to snack on—and fortunately, the city comes equipped with a truly staggering range of options thanks to its thriving chocolate industry.
'Astorga's chocolate legacy began with the muleteers who transported goods like fish,' says Alfredo Cabezas Galán, owner of Chocodulce Cabezas S.L. and Chocolatería La Cepedana. 'Eventually, they also began carrying cocoa beans they encountered on the Galician coast.' Over the centuries, this affinity for cocoa developed into a thriving economic driver for the city. By the 1960s, approximately 40 artisans were operating in Astorga, each offering their own distinct array of edible and drinkable products.
Today, Chocolatería La Cepedana serves as both a shop and an education center, crafting about 700 kilograms (1,543 pounds) of chocolate daily while showcasing a collection of antique tools and trinkets related to the industry. West of the Astorga train station, food history buffs can keep exploring the craft with a trip to the Astorga Chocolate Museum. Operating out of an ornate 20th-century mansion, this institution is packed with exhibits that highlight the rich history of Astorga's confectionery industry, and sections dedicated to traditional consumption methods, advertisements over the years, and other related topics.
(This Basque city is known for pintxos—and it's not San Sebastian) Looking for something sweet? Foodies should try churros dipped into a cup of hot chocolate when visiting Astorga, Spain. Photograph By Marc Hill/ Alamy El Museo del Chocolate, which features these antique chocolate molds, is dedicated to the history of cacao and chocolate production in Astorga, one of the first epicenters of chocolate making in Europe. Photograph By Paul Christian Gordon/ Alamy Discovering Astorga's other top attractions
Cocido maragato and artisanal chocolate may be two of Astorga's greatest strengths, but they're far from the only culinary stylings worth sampling during a visit. While bakeries abound across downtown Astorga, travelers in search of an interesting treat can make their way to Confitería Flor y Nata to try a fresh merle, a unique pastry that's found nowhere else in Spain. Crafted from eggs, flour, and a top-secret blend of other ingredients, this treat is just one of many items that have been created at the bakery since its debut in 1936, with various options ranging from buñuelos to huesos de santo.
Meanwhile, those who wish to explore a more modern take on Astorga's dining scene should spend an evening at Restaurante Serrano. Since 1995, this polished venue has showcased mushrooms that grow across Castilla y León. Meanwhile, this affinity for fungus has led to flavorful plates, such as truffle-infused lamb and Iberian pork sirloin bathed in brandy mushroom sauce. The restaurant is also particularly well-versed in crafting seafood dishes, providing guests with the perfect opportunity to sample salmon, codfish, and other Spanish favorites.
Of course, the city also offers its fair share of non-culinary attractions to explore. Roughly 2,000 years ago, the Roman Emperor Augustus, then known as 'Asturica Augusta,' founded modern-day Astorga. Today, visitors can uncover its storied past with a trip to the Museo Romano, a downtown institution dedicated to showcasing the Astorga of yore. After studying the coins, pottery, and other artifacts found within its halls, tourists can keep an eye out for some of Astorga's other ancient relics, which include eons-old Roman walls and baths scattered across its city limits.
People who venture to Astorga—far less renowned compared to some of Spain's larger cities— will be richly rewarded with a wide breadth of culinary experiences. From morning merles to an evening packed with truffles and fresh seafood, this storied city provides an opportunity to explore the true splendor of Spain from a gastronomic standpoint, accompanied by plenty of fascinating architecture to enjoy along the way. As you plan your next foray across Iberia, you should save some room on the itinerary to spend a few days in Astorga, an oft-underrated city that showcases the refined culinary culture of Castilla y León at its very best.
(Our essential travel guide to Spain provides you with everything they need to know before you go.) This trip was created with the support of the Instituto de Turismo de España – Turespaña. Jared Ranahan is a Puerto Rico-based writer who covers travel and wildlife. Follow him on
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