Jenny Kee and Linda Jackson add a touch of 'iconically Australian' style to National Gallery of Australia collection
When Princess Diana turned up to a polo game wearing a navy jumper with a koala on the front in the 1980s, it made headlines around the world.
The jumper became instantly iconic — as did the artist behind it.
Fashion designer Jenny Kee's career was given the royal treatment and international recognition ensued.
At a time when wardrobes are filled with the ever-churning trends of fast fashion, Kee's work has stood the test of time — so it's only fitting that some of her pieces are forming a new gallery exhibition, alongside those of her former artistic partner Linda Jackson.
With no 'basic tees' in sight, 80 works by the pair, including bold hand-knitted garments, silks and scarves, have taken centre stage at the National Gallery of Australia (NGA).
"I just hope that people will be completely inspired by nature when they walk away ... [inspired] by art."
Though Kee's famous koala jumper isn't part of the collection, the works on display are clearly inspired by Australian flora and fauna.
Some of the pair's works have been on display in the gallery since March, drawing in fans and young admirers.
"We've had people coming in with their old Jenny Kee knits and their Linda Jackson scarves and having their photos taken in front of the works," Simeran Maxwell, NGA associate curator of Australian art, said.
The pair began collaborating in the 1970s when Jackson started selling her work in Kee's Flamingo Park Frock Salon in Sydney's Strand Arcade.
Their artistic partnership ended a little over a decade later, and they both went on to create successful individual projects.
For Jackson, that looked like Bush Couture Studio in Kings Cross, filled with hand printed textiles with opal designs inspired by her travels through parts of South-East Asia and Europe.
Kee continued to run Flamingo Park until 1995, and her name is synonymous with bright Australiana knits and bold nature-inspired garments.
The NGA's acquisition includes many previously unseen works from Kee and Jackson's early careers, and is one of the largest collections of its kind.
Both Kee and Jackson donated some items to the acquisition from their personal collection.
"Mine were often packed in boxes with tissue because some of them weren't suitable to be hanging on coat hangers and stuff," Jackson said.
"Everything was looked after with a knowledge that possibility, as time went on, something like this could happen."
Kee and Jackson's personal collections are on display as part of the first instalment of the gallery's Know My Name: Kee, Jackson and Delaunay exhibition.
Alongside their vibrant designs, the exhibition also highlights works by French artist Sonia Delaunay, who was an inspiration to both artists.
Delaunay was the co-founder of an art movement known as Orphism, which used intense colours and abstract forms.
"It took us back to those times and how important this inspiration is," Jackson said.
"Clearly you can see how earlier women inspired us."
Rarely seen Kee and Jackson works will be revealed in a second instalment, due to go on display from November 2025 until July 2026.
"These are not going to go into storage and we will forget about them," Ms Maxwell said.
"These will be constantly in use."
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