Photo story: uncovering the charm of Bermuda

National Geographic

02-06-2025

Photographs by Michael George Bermuda is often mistaken for a Caribbean island, but in reality, it is located in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. A British Overseas Territory, this subtropical paradise is situated on approximately the same latitude as North Carolina and is just a two-hour flight from the East Coast of the United States. Millions of years ago, it formed as part of a volcanic seamount near a section of the Atlantic known as the Sargasso Sea. While stories of mysterious disappearances in the "Bermuda Triangle" may be fictional, its shipwrecks are very real. Bermuda is home to over 300 shipwrecks, earning it the nickname "shipwreck capital of the world." Here, tour boats visit the HMS Vixen, an intentionally sunk wreck that dates back to World War II. The HMS Vixen is located a short boat ride from shore. Companies such as Bermuda Watersports offer tours and provide snorkel gear rentals. Locals affectionately refer to Bermuda as "de Rock" due to its abundance of aeolian limestone cliffs. Admiralty House Park in Hamilton has long been a favorite spot for cliff jumpers, but for Bermudian Grant Farquhar, it holds a different allure: rock climbing. The author of Climb de Rock: A Climber's Guide to Bermuda, Grant has mapped rock climbing routes throughout the island. Bermuda's distinctive "boiler" reefs, seen here near the South Shore Beaches, create a churning effect in the water that resembles boiling. Bermuda sees an influx of part-time residents in the spring and summer: Longtails. These black-and-white tropicbirds, named for their long feathered tails, spend the winter at sea and return to Bermuda from March through August to nest in its cliffs and crevices. Bermuda's cliffs and shore reefs make for scenic coastal kayaking. Here, a couple paddles in clear-bottom kayaks in the parish of Somerset past a structure with a uniquely Bermudian stepped limestone roof designed to catch rainwater. One of Bermuda's most iconic structures is the Unfinished Church in the Town of St. George. As its name suggests, this Gothic-style church from the 1800s was never completed. St. George's is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the oldest English settlement in the New World still in existence. The town dates back to 1609 when British passengers aboard the Virginia-bound Sea Venture were shipwrecked on the uninhabited island. A staff member at the Hamilton Princess Hotel in downtown Hamilton, Bermuda, wears a traditional outfit: Bermuda shorts worn just above the knee, high socks, a button-down shirt, and a blazer. The evolution of Bermuda shorts as we know them today is often attributed to Nathaniel Coxon, a Bermudian tea merchant in the 1920s who adapted British military uniforms to make them more comfortable in the island heat.
Pictured in the background is a Bermuda moongate. Influenced by Chinese architectural design, Bermuda moongates symbolize love. It is a tradition for newlyweds to stand beneath them. Gombey dancers, wearing vibrant costumes, prepare to perform in the streets of Bermuda. This tradition dates back to the early 1800s and blends African, British, Native American, and Caribbean influences, reflecting the island's diverse heritage. Historically, enslaved individuals were permitted to dance only once a year, using masks to protest injustices without fear of retribution. Today, Gombey performances are a symbol of Bermudian identity, featured during holidays like Boxing Day, New Year's Day, and Bermuda Day, as well as at festivals and public celebrations. The traditional Gombey costume features a peacock feather headdress, painted mask, bells, and tassels, but each dancer adds their own twist to the ensemble. The word "Gombey" is thought to come from an African term meaning "rhythm," highlighting the role of drumming and percussive beats in their performances. Two locals offering a taste of Bermudian culture are Doreen Williams-James (left) and Julie Barnes (right). Williams-James, founder of Wild Herbs N Plants of Bermuda, leads foraging tours across the island, teaching guests how to identify wild herbs and plants like nasturtium and sea purslane for culinary and medicinal use.
Barnes, recently voted the best bartender in Bermuda, has spent the past 28 years at the Swizzle Inn, where she serves up Bermuda's national drink: the Rum Swizzle. While every bar puts its own spin on the cocktail, a Rum Swizzle typically includes rum, fruit juices (such as orange, pineapple, and lemon), falernum or grenadine, and Angostura bitters. For a bird's-eye view of Bermuda's reefs, landmarks, and distinctive fishhook shape, visitors can take to the skies with Heather Nicholds, owner of Blue Sky Flights. Nicholds offers 25-minute discovery flights and 45-minute full sightseeing tours around the island in her small plane. The view underground is equally stunning. In Bermuda's East End, the Crystal and Fantasy Caves invite visitors to explore the island's subterranean wonders. For those who like to venture off the beaten path, Bermuda is full of hidden gems—including Blue Hole Park. This striking blue swimming hole is tucked within the lush jungle of Walsingham Nature Reserve, a place that, in the words of the late Bermudian singer Hubert Smith, makes Bermuda feel like 'another world.'