Coracle, at BIC Cafe, is an invitation to wholesome, homely Kerala cuisine

The Hindu

12 hours ago

There are not too many home chefs who take the plunge into running a restaurant, but Tresa Francis does it with a subtle flair and understated elegance that is the hallmark of Coracle. Even many regulars to the Bangalore International Centre (BIC) may not be aware of its existence, tucked away in plain sight, away from the hustle and bustle of its many activities.
Sliding doors open into a simple, yet tastefully designed dining area and a decently stocked bar. Coracle primarily serves Kerala cuisine with a few South Indian regional exceptions. And while there is no dearth of Malayali restaurants in the city, ranging from simple messes to ones helmed by star chefs, Coracle occupies a sweet spot where the food is homely and the experience is classy.
Chef Tresa Francis, whose culinary influences come from north, central and south Kerala, says cooking has always been a part of her life for as long as she could remember. 'We were all involved in the prepartion of a meal, even as children. Whether it was helping pick produce or poultry, it was something we all did,' she says, adding that it was never seen as a grown-up's job.
Kerala cuisine involves a rich balance of flavours and textures, courtesy the use of a range of tubers, lentils and gourds. And though most of these vegetarian delights are commonly seen at the grocer's, more often than not, only mushrooms, paneer, corn and peas make it on to the menu in most places.
We begin our meal with yam fingers served with curry leaf aioli, and kappa (tapioca) kandhari sauce. For those not in the know, boiled tapioca served with a simple dipping sauce of coarsely pounded green chillies, shallots and coconut oil, is a staple in Kerala and can be eaten at any time of day. Both were simple and homely, and set the tone for the rest of our meal.
Next up were the prawn fry, pork fry and beef cutlets, each vying for our attention. Both the prawn and pork fry were delicious, succulent and well flavoured, without an overpowering of spices. It was heartening to see the beef cutlets were of ample proportions, happily crisp on the outside and satisfactorily moist on the inside.
Ullarthu is Malayalam for roast and we try both the chicken and beef ullarthu. The chicken is served on mini parottas, inviting you to pop them in your mouth and chew on their wholesomeness at one go.
Now, beef ullarthu is a signature dish in the Kerala cuisine cookbook. Often accompanied by parotta or enjoyed by itself, this dish is found along the length and breadth of the state, at homes and hotels, and is as comforting as a bowl of dal-chaawal elsewhere. However, only a few places can elevate its delectability and Coracle is one of them.
There is a quite a good reason why. While Tresa oversees everything at the kitchen, the beef ullarthu and prawn mango curry are two dishes she personally prepares apart from the fish curries. Traditionally, the meat is slow-cooked until tender and is flecked with coconut chips, gloriouslybrowned onions and dark green curry leaves. It disappears almost as soon as it make an appearance at our table.
The prawn mango curry is a delicately flavoured gravy in a base of coconut milk and it pairs wonderfully with appams, rice and even parottas. It is a definitive must-have at Coracle, if you are a non-vegetarian, especially as the taste and recipe are quite unique.
We end our meal with tender coconut pudding and caramel custard. Both choices are smooth and light on our stomachs that have been well-stuffed at this point.
Coracle opens at lunchtime and serves meals as well as a few dishes from other regions such as neer dosa, kumbalkai palya, kori gassi and ghee roast from Mangalore, Tamil Nadu's railway mutton curry, Karnataka's hitkidbele gojju (dish of hyacinth beans).
Since Tresa makes it a point to include seasonal vegetables in the menu, be prepared to try something new on your visit apart from her classics. But whatever you decide to indulge in, expect soul satisfying, delicious fare.