
A Long, Overdue Reporting Trip Through Syria
For more than a decade, I lived in Lebanon as a New York Times correspondent and bureau chief, and much of my work focused on the Syrian civil war, which began in 2011 and tore the country apart for 13 years.
During that time, I visited areas in northern and eastern Syria where the government had lost control. But I had no access to most of the country, including its largest cities and the sites of major battles, because the regime of President Bashar al-Assad refused to let me visit the areas it controlled.
So after rebels toppled Mr. al-Assad in December, effectively ending the war, the whole country suddenly opened up. My colleagues and I could not only enter Syria but drive around, see the locations of events we had covered from afar and meet with Syrians we had previously known only through online chats over Skype and WhatsApp.
The scale of loss — more than half a million people were killed — was hard to comprehend, and nearly everyone we met spoke of loved ones who were dead or missing. The destruction of Syria's cities and villages felt postapocalyptic. Rebuilding is expected to take decades and cost tens of billions of dollars that Syria doesn't have.
To capture Syria's new reality, I set off with the photographer David Guttenfelder and other colleagues in February to drive across the country, interviewing dozens of Syrians along the way about their hopes and fears for the future and documenting their lives. The resulting article was published last month.
Executing the journey required a lot of research and planning, but once we were on the road three things were essential: cash, gas and the right team.
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