FOOD REVIEW: The village gastropub near York that is a thoroughbred for dining
If ever a pub was a 'destination', it would have to be the Alice Hawthorn at Nun Monkton to the west of York, just off the A59.
You cannot pass through the village, it is at the end of a cul-de-sac several miles long, and a couple of miles past Nun Monkton's excellent Yorkshire Heart Brewery and Vineyard.
But when you get there you are treated to a most lovely village with maypole and duck pond and a large village green.
Then, there is the Alice Hawthorn itself, a 220-year-old Grade II-listed building, that has been thoroughly modernised with extensions that have won awards for their stylish architecture.
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In recent years, it has gained a fine reputation for quality gastropub dining, gaining 4.7 stars out of five on Google, based on 465 reviews. Tripadvisor awards the venue 4.4 stars out of five, based on 742 reviews.
The pub, which also has rooms, also features in the 2025 Michelin Guide.
With the Alice Hawthorn named after a famous 19th-century racehorse, that won 52 out of 71 races between 1845 and 1871, all augured well for a great meal to remember.
Dynamite Shrimp (Image: Darren Greenwood)
I arrived with mum and dad around 5.30pm on a Friday, as were unable to get a later booking than 6pm.
Dad drove, which was good as his Volvo 4wd fitted in better with the other plush cars in the car park than my humble Toyota might.
We were soon shown to our table in the restaurant area, which initially we had to ourselves, but it soon filled up. The pub part was already busy and there were also others sat outside enjoying the fine evening.
I ordered a large sparkling Harrogate mineral water (£4.50), a pint of Aspall cider (£5.50), a Tanquery Gin and Tonic (£6.50) and a pint of Theakston's.
Now, it had been some years since we had been before and mum and dad were amazed at the transformation. The restaurant areas are most chic and upmarket, yet traditional in appearance.
The menu is extensive, with seven starters and ten mains, offering a mix of pub classics with their own twist, to meals that are a more continental or exotic.
Seabass Ceviche (Image: Darren Greenwood)
We ordered, with just me and mum having a starter.
I chose the seabass ceviche (£14.50), which is lightly cured in lime with mango, tomato, coriander, chilli, ginger and guacamole.
Mum chose the dynamite shrimp (£14), which features crispy prawns rolled in a spicy mayonnaise.
The ceviche was a colourful and tasty delight, pretty as a picture, served beautifully.
The balance of flavours well complimented each other, with just the right amount of tang. A delicious, light starter to the meal.
Mum was most impressed with her prawns' saying 'best ever' and she had not seen prawns like it. She enjoyed the flavours too and dad had ne also enjoying it.
I looked longingly at the large prawns, wanting one for myself, but was only given a small piece to try. But it was superb, tender, tasty, fresh, spicy enough to have flavour but not too hot to spoil it.
Coronation Chicken (Image: Darren Greenwood)
The dynamite shrimp was a popular choice with neighbouring tables too.
For mains Dad went for the traditional beer battered haddock with triple cooked chips, crushed garden peas and tartare sauce (£21.50).
Mum went for the roast rump of lamb (£30), served with potato dauphinoise, parsley emulsion, provencal tomatoes and a white onion puree.
I went for warm coronation chicken (£26), which featured pan roasted breast of chicken, coronation sauce, and a basmati and wild rice pilaf.
Dad said later he was disappointed with the haddock, saying it was a bit 'watery' and lacking in flavour. He still cleaned his plate but said 'The Wetherby Whaler is better.'
He must have been unlucky as the reviews of the fish and chips I have seen all delivered praise.
Mum and I were certainly happy with our choices.
Mum commented how the lamb was tasty and tender and she enjoyed the dauphinoise.
I was given a couple of slices of the lamb and can confirm it was cooked to perfection and I detected a slight chargrilled taste, which was an added pleasure.
My coronation chicken was an absolute treat, a bit on the mild side, so as not to overpower the chicken and the sultanas were a flavour-packed delight.
The chicken skins were crispy to perfection, full of flavour, and the chicken was moist and tender- all a perfect combination.
The rice pilaf was pretty to look and tasty too, as well as plentiful.
The lamb rump (Image: Darren Greenwood)
This was washed down with a large Malbec (£13.50), which was full bodied, smooth, very nice.
Now some venues make their portions a bit on the large side, so you are not in the mood for dessert.
Here at the Alice Hawthorn, portions are somewhat smaller but still decent, think quality rather than quantity.
There is also an extensive range of sides for the particularly hungry.
It meant I had room for dessert, so I went for the Panna Cotta, which came with strawberries, cream and a raspberry sorbet.
It looked a treat with its bright colours and petals and was equally good to eat, with a fine sorbet full of flavour. All went well together and yes, a perfect way to finish a mightily fine meal.
The panna cotta (Image: Darren Greenwood)
Now, the wait for it was a little longer than we would have preferred but by now the place was busy and though the staff were excellent, giving great, knowledgeable and friendly service, maybe there could have been more of them.
I asked for the bill and it came to £151, higher than other places I have reviewed, but haddock aside, this was all top quality, featuring excellent cooking, with meals well presented, cooked to perfection, and served well in the most impressive surroundings.
As mentioned, the Alice Hawthorn was a champion racehorse back in her day.
Today's Alice Hawthorn is another champion, a thoroughbred for top class dining that is well worth the drive and deserving of its Michelin listing.thealicehawthorn.com
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