Breeze Into Late Summer At Oregon's Riverfront Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
When you land in Medford, Oregon, the airport three hours away from the waterfront retreat Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, the temperature is approaching 90. But as you progress southwest along Route 199, aka Redwood Highway, past forests of those titanic trees, caves and country stores, the temperature starts to drop. By the time you get to the lodge, eight miles from the coast, it's a stretch to reach 70. You're also in a leafy refuge on the Rogue River, a perfect place to beat the late summer heat.
The view of the Rogue River. Elliot Hawkey
The lodge, originally opened in 1970 and named after the Indigenous inhabitants of the property, the Tututni Native Americans who referred to their home encampment as 'Tu Tu' Tun' or 'people of the place by the water.' Subsequent generations of the same family have operated it, maintaining a homey, intimate feeling. But last year, there was a major change: a renovation of the entire property including the addition of glass cabins with 360 views from the interior; a new chef Derek Piva, a veteran of STARR Restaurants and New York's The Musket Room and the addition of a new spa, named Hive + Honey, for one of its essential ingredients.
The interior of a glass cabin. Elizabeth Barclay
The 12 glass cabins, designed in partnership with the mirror house production company ÖÖD founded by two brothers in Estonia, are clearly unique with contemporary interiors and wraparound views of the river, mountain peaks or the night sky reflected by mirrored walls. Designed to accommodate two people, the cabins, even with glass walls, are private because of their placement away from each other, situated for specific views: Mountain View Glass Cabins, Creekside Glass Cabins and River Front Cabins. Each cabin also has a private patio with a personal fire pit and outdoor soaking tub.
The terrace of the main lodge. Elixabeth Barclay
The other rooms in the 40 room property, redecorated in clean, rustic style, are located in the Main and Guest lodges and for larger groups and families, in four guest houses, two recently added, with two or three bedrooms. All have unobstructed views of the river.
Rafting down the Rogue River. getty
The Great Outdoors is clearly the main point here so activities facilitated by the lodge reflect that. Guests zoom down the river on a jet boat from Jerry's Rogue Jets or take to the river in a gentler fashion, kayaking in calm currents, possibly to visit Sheila the harbor seal who generally spends her time on a rock just east of the lodge. Flyfishermen and women troll for steelhead and salmon; hikers explore coastal trails, seeing swaths of the Pacific Ocean from the cliffs and depending on the season, whales. Golfers have a choice of several world class courses including the famous Bandon Dunes Golf Resort an hour north and its waterfront views. Back on property, guests rest up from their excursions by checking into the Hive + Honey Spa for massages with movements inspired by the currents of the river, rituals with warmed basalt stones, forest wraps, honey facials or a stint in the wood burning sauna. Earthy Dining
Bone In Pork Loin with Cannellini, Chorizo and Cippolini onions. Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
Meals are also influenced by the outdoors in a style described as wilderness to table. Chef Piva works with local ranchers and farmers and utilizes produce and herbs from the property's garden to produce earthy, flavorful dishes such as Raddichio and Citrus Salad with stracciatella, mint, honey and dukkha, Seared Salmon with Green Curry and Thai Herbs, Bone In Pork Loin with Cannellini, Chorizo and Cippolini onions, Tagliatelle al Limone and 40 day aged 20 ounce Delmonico Steak. After active days, guests are pretty hungry.
Nighttime on the lodge grounds. Elliot Hawkey
After dinner, on weekends, the prime activity is to take a chair by the river, grab a glass of wine or a cup of tea (and a cookie) and look up at the stars in this dark sky region, comparing impressions with other guests. But it's even chillier. Bring a sweater. MORE FROM FORBES Forbes Inside Maui's Adults-Only Hotel Wailea: Serenity And Exquisite Cuisine By Laurie Werner Forbes Australia's Southern Ocean Lodge Is The Ideal Restful Getaway By Laurie Werner Forbes Mirrored Cabins, Epic Views: An Exciting Place To Stay Now In Iceland By Laurie Werner Forbes New Zealand's Historic Huka Lodge Reopens With Stunning Expansion By Laurie Werner
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The Luxury Transformation Of Oregon's Classic Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
Escaping the 100-degree Southern California summer, my wife and I took a driving vacation to the Northern California redwoods and on to Southern Oregon. As part of our trip, we stayed at the recently rethought and renovated Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, along the Rogue River east of Gold Beach, Oregon. Gold Beach is more than 650 miles from Los Angeles. So the first stage of our trip was to visit Avenue of the Giants, the magnificent 31-mile drive through an ancient redwood forest. Later we drove to Redwood National Park and stopped in Crescent City, California, to learn more about the largest tsunami ever recorded in the U.S., which devastated the area in 1964. The redwood forests were beautiful, but our pre-Tu Tun accommodations were certainly not. A 100-year-old inn in Eureka seemed deserted except for spooky painting of guests from its glory days, from Boris Karloff to Winston Churchill to Nancy Reagan. A bank of old phone booths await a call from beyond. 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'Tu Tu' Tun' translates to 'people of the place by the water,' reflecting the deep connection of the tribe. Nestled along the Rogue River, the lodge has long been a refuge for travelers seeking tranquility, adventure, and the natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest. Tu Tu' Tun was also a favorite of fishermen fishing on the Rogue or in the Pacific. Since April 2024, Tu Tu' Tun has been undergoing a transformation, from rustic lodge to destination dining and first-class hotel. The lodge is also now operated by people with the skills, will, and financial backing to provide a true dining and hospitality experience. Local fish and farm raised Wagyu beef were the among the highlights of the restaurant at Tu Tu' Tun. Chinook salmon from the Rogue River were pink and delicious, as was halibut caught off the Oregon coast. The potato bread, made in house, is served piping hot. Other favorites were the spicy, savory and crunchy Shiseido peppers, nicely balance with a refreshing melon salad. Dining was in the lovely dining room or outside under propane heaters with cozy Pendleton blankets. Derek the outstanding chef, food and beverage supervisor and overall leader of the charge, came from Tao. He left Brazil at 14 to move to New Zealand and eventually New York. A key part of his job is making local people with limited hospitality experience into sophisticated hoteliers. One was our 18-year-old waitress, from nearby Gold Beach. She had an infectious laugh as she explained that we had best talk to the 'som' about wine, as she wasn't old enough to drink. Previously, the lodge had a family-style restaurant with Lazy Susans full of food on the table for guests to serve themselves. Derek didn't like the idea that 'You should force people to eat communally. Guests seemed to enjoy eating as couples or with friends. Sourcing great food from the area was as difficult as finding great employees. 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Adrian, the veteran bar manager and innovative drink maker, came from 18 years in Las Vegas. Now enjoying the quiet life in the woods, she brought her ability to make special drinks, like her black garlic Negroni and perfect martini. Hannah, the ex-Navy general manager, waitress, bar tender and general factotum, was a can-do 'find.' She grew up in the area but had never worked in hospitality before she came to Tu Tu' Tun. Grant, the personable and knowledgeable 'som,' or sommelier, worked in some of the finest restaurants in the Dallas Metroplex. The face of the lodge has also been changing. The Tu Tu' Tun Lodge is an expansive property with about 30 rooms, including a couple of larger accomodations, the lodge, and new, mirrored glass cabins. It also boasts an idyllic view of the river, a new swimming pool and a very hot wood fired sauna for four. Mellow music played in the fireplace room filled with comfy couches and board games. 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