Cruising the Kimberley on board Ponant's luxury small ship Le Jacques Cartier
The ship's design blends modern elegance with expedition-ready functionality. The ship features 92 staterooms and suites spread across four passenger decks, offering airy, light-filled spaces with ocean views. A hydraulic marina at the stern is the focal point for expertly planned, daily Zodiac excursions.
The spaces
It might be classified as a small ship but it never feels crowded on board Le Jacques Cartier. With roughly 150 guests on board during my sailing, there's always a spot to relax, drink or dine.
Public areas include the observation lounge on deck six, an 188-seat theatre (where daily briefings take place), indoor and outdoor dining across two levels, a wellness centre with spa, sauna and gym, and an infinity-edge pool. A popular gathering point is the main lounge, which opens early for coffee and pastries and transitions throughout the day from the excursion meeting point to a hub for activities like quizzes and French lessons, to afternoon tea and post-dinner dancing.
There are plenty of places to seek entertainment on board. Photo / Supplied
The Observatory is ideal for enjoying the cocktail of the day, watching the sunset or settling in with a book. Don't miss the unique Blue Eye Lounge on deck zero, a world-first underwater observatory where guests can watch marine life and listen to the ocean through hydrophones – or just enjoy a Curacao-infused Blue Eye cocktail and music.
Boarding and check-in
The starting point for Ponant's 'Australia's Iconic Kimberley Cruise' is Broome, on the traditional lands of the Yawuru people – a tropical coastal town in Western Australia known for its multicultural heritage, pearling industry and postcard-perfect sights like Cable Beach. Ponant offers an optional one-night pre-cruise package, and it's well worth adding Broome to your itinerary. Airport transfers to the Mangrove Hotel, the official cruise meeting point, are included.
Cruising the Kimberley on board Ponant's luxury small ship Le Jacques Cartier. Photo / Supplied
Check-in is seamless: guests drop their bags at the Ponant desk, enjoy light refreshments, then receive their cabin keys before boarding a shuttle to the port – all within an hour. By 4pm, we were welcomed aboard by Captain Christophe Dupuy and shown directly to our stateroom, where our luggage was waiting. All that remained was to unpack and head for a welcome cocktail before setting sail.
Food and drink
There are just two restaurants on board – the fine dining, multi-course Le Nautilus, and the more casual Grill Restaurant on the pool deck – but the offering is so varied (and included in your fare), it feels abundant. The Grill is a go-to at lunchtime when the sun is shining and an elaborate poolside cooking station turns out everything from big pans of paella brimming with chorizo, octopus, mussels, chicken and rice, to a seafood extravaganza complete with prawn towers and trays of shellfish.
The fine dining, multi-course restaurant, Le Nautilus. Photo / Supplied
In the air-conditioned Le Nautilus, with its crisp white tablecloths and sparkling glassware, expect a six-course French menu designed by executive chef Philippe Morvan, alongside an alternative menu of 'Australian-friendly' options – a rack of NZ lamb one night, chicken parmy the next – a selection of French wines, and attentive service. The tables are designed for socialising, with plenty for six or more, as friendships are inevitably formed during the cruise. For those who prefer a quiet table for two, there's always one to be found.
Pastry chef Kevin Tiraboshi's desserts are an absolute standout (think pecan pie, lemon meringue tart, pistachio financier, mille-feuille and big bowls of chocolate mousse) that have most guests indulging at both lunch and dinner. The understated desserts are often the heroes, like the crème anglaise, served from a jug, which caused many a queue. No French cruise is complete without a cheese buffet, and Le Jacques Cartier's offered an astonishing array of French selections and accompaniments, from Coulommiers and ash brie to Morbier, Comté and Cantal.
The room
Compact yet cleverly designed, our Prestige Stateroom delivers boutique hotel comfort at sea. At 19sq m, it fits a king bed, seating area, wardrobe, mini bar and a private balcony – with thoughtful storage and luxe details throughout.
Prestige Stateroom. Photo / Supplied
The bathroom, stocked with Clarins products, even offers ocean views from the shower. Daily turndown includes a parade of petit fours, and 24/7 room service means you can enjoy a Ponant burger and a glass of champagne while you watch a movie in bed.
Spas, saunas and gyms
Don't expect to get your step count up on this cruise. The most walking I did was from the cabin to the breakfast buffet, with daily expeditions often restricted to a Zodiac cruise without touching land. So if you're keen to earn that second slice of lemon meringue pie, the compact gym, with its ocean outlook, is the place to be.
The on-board spa. Photo / Supplied
You might even spot dolphins while you work out (true story). In lieu of a walking loop on an upper level, I also made the most of the stairwell and long hallways. I loved the spa and salon, with its dreamy menu of facials, massages and hair treatments using Clarins products, perfect for an at-sea day.
The crew
With 127 crew members to a maximum of 184 guests, Le Jacques Cartier offers impressively attentive service. You quickly get to know the hard-working and personable team, from Agus, who keeps our stateroom impeccably clean, to Iwan, the waiter who remembers our spice preference and ensures Tabasco appears on the breakfast table (even sharing a sachet of sambal from his personal stash). Sommelier Claudelie always has an armful of French wine to match the day's menu, while restaurant manager Jennyfer glides through the dining room with effortless efficiency. Cruise director Johan keeps the schedule running smoothly with charm and precision, and the true stars – the naturalists – are walking encyclopaedias and great company on excursions.
Hunter River and Porosus Creek Cruising. Photo / Supplied
Expeditions
Each day, the ship anchors at a new location in the Kimberley on its way from Broome to Darwin. Expert-led Zodiac excursions take guests into mangrove-lined rivers, to ancient Aboriginal rock art, and zoom right up close to Talbot Bay's Horizontal Falls. A highlight is Montgomery Reef, which appears to rise dramatically from the sea as the tide drops.
You will see wildlife, including crocodiles (a real thrill as a New Zealander), green turtles, mudskippers, stingrays and nesting seabirds. Guests are assigned to small expedition groups at the start of the journey, which is a great way to forge bonds across the 10-day voyage. You won't swim (as well as crocodiles, there are sharks, jellyfish and dangerous tides), but you will cruise through dramatic gorges and toast champagne beneath King George Falls. This is not a cruise for independent explorers or active hikers – with only two opportunities to step ashore, walking is minimal (even accounting for those return trips to the buffet and bar). But for lovers of luxury and wild, remote beauty, at a very gentle pace, it's unforgettable.
Price
From $14,129 per person for a 10-night Australia's Iconic Kimberley. Includes daily expert-led excursions, onboard meals and drinks, including 24/7 room service and mini bar.
The writer was a guest on board courtesy of Ponant. She flew courtesy of Qantas and Virgin Australia.
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NZ Herald
17 hours ago
- NZ Herald
Cruise room check: Ponant Le Jacques Cartier
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NZ Herald
4 days ago
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NZ Herald
05-08-2025
- NZ Herald
Lake Dunstan Trail and Clutha Gold Trail: Cycling Central Otago's scenic rides
Up early the next morning and dressed for cycling, I join a pair of concrete merchants and four other cyclists at the communal breakfast table while unflappable Andy works calmly in her scullery. Sitting down to Oliver's hearty morning repast of homemade muesli, berries, stewed apricots, homemade bread and jam as well as cooked options, I am ready for action. Oliver's Subtle Breakfast. Photo / Elisabeth Easther Over the road from Oliver's, the team at Bike it Now! fit me out with an e-bike, then a small group of us are driven to Cromwell to the head of the trail. I am also given Gary, a recently retired arrival to Clyde. At least Gary thought he'd retired after spending 40 years as a commercial baker in Invercargill, but be warned, practical chaps get snapped up round here and find themselves doing everything from driving shuttles to chaperoning solo cyclists. Saddled up, we pedal beside the river with its jaw-dropping backdrop of snow-capped peaks. As we ride, Gary tells me how he and his wife relish their new life, and his contentment is contagious. As we shoot the breeze, I try to think of words to capture the colours of the river and cliffs of schist, but everything feels like a pretentious paint chart. What I will say, I could ride this trail every day forever and never tire of it. More bike art. Photo / Elisabeth Easther Eight kilometres in we reach Carrick Winery near Bannockburn where we stop for a cuppa on their manicured lawn dotted with chairs, tables and art. With the view duly admired, we are off again. As the sun rises higher, the aroma of thyme fills the air, thanks to some French fella who planted the heady herb back in the day, Gary tells me. Merci monsieur. At Pick Axe Bridge, Gary slows so we can find the eponymous tool wedged into the rock by some long-dead miner. Central Otago's Excalibur. Pulling over at The Coffee Float, this burger joint operates from an old moored boat at the river's edge. Shut for winter, it's actually for sale if anyone fancies picking up sticks and relocating. A new photo opportunity around each bend with trail segments called quirky things like Three Little Pigs, Colosseum and Cold Stew – cheers to the trail builders – and all too soon we're back in Clyde, and it's adios to my new pal Gary. Bridge to somewhere, although Gary framed it a bit close. Photo / Elisabeth Easther If the Lake Dunstan Trail is the main course, then the 62km leg from Lawrence to Waihola on The Clutha Gold Trail is dessert. Reaching Lawrence on dusk, I park at Lawrence Townhouse, the brainchild of local entrepreneur Jude. A former shearing gang cook, Jude recognised the town's future and created a range of accommodation options from the newly built townhouses to Mata Au Lodge. Jude also runs a shuttle service and The Slippery Chip food truck. A hard-case, Jude had seen a fair few towns in her shearing days, but it is Lawrence that stole her heart. Jude also knows what big groups need, from the massive kitchen and living room, this place sleeps six. It also has excellent amenities including laundry and a top-of-the-line massage chair. Instead of going out for dinner, I eat toast and set the controller to full-body Shiatzu. Properly pummelled, the next day I set off on another steed from Bike it Now!. Fully charged, the sturdy Merida had been left outside my digs. 'No lock, this is Lawrence mate,' and from the get-go I'm virtually the only rider on the trail. I do spy one far-off farmer, otherwise it's just me and the rolling green hills. The perfect temperature too, and I relish the aromas of fallen leaves and wet grass, damp wool and wood smoke. Riding through rural Waitahuna, the old rail town features wrought iron sculptures and old bicycles rusting on fences. Gingerly riding the dank dark tunnels, grateful for my torch, I pop out at pretty Mount Stuart Reserve to find a paddock of bonny black sheep with curly horns wagging their undocked tails. Plump sheep on way to Waihola. Photo / Elisabeth Easther Riding along under wide open skies, I eventually hit Milton where op shops and farm stores line the bustling main street. The locals go about their weekday business, and I stop for a snack to fuel up for the final 17km leg to Waihola. The bridges on this stretch are very impressive and I stop to chat to a cheerful local who tells me about a local businessman whose largesse makes this section possible, including the native trees and the one-way flax roundabout. All too soon, I'm on the home stretch clattering on boardwalks that lead through rushes and wetlands, when I arrive at Lake Waihola. And the verdict for both these rides? I can absolutely see what all the fuss is about, although rather than ease my FOMO, I just want to go back. Landscape outside Milton. Photo / Elisabeth Easther Details Bike it Now! | Oliver's | Lawrence Townhouse |
