Scenic Plett gives up its secrets along winding walking paths

Daily Maverick

04-05-2025

As a student during the 1970s, I had travelled the N2 between Gqeberha and Cape Town multiple times. Plett was just a waypoint, a step closer to either destination, but now its Camino has changed that.
What better way is there to learn about the rich human tapestry and natural majesty of an area than an 80km walk over five days? This is why 11 newly acquainted souls gathered at T'Niqua Stable Inn in Plettenberg Bay on a warm March evening for a meet-and-greet dinner prior to an early morning start to the Plett Camino.
We were to walk in Afromontane jungle and forests, rolling fields of cultivated farmland, pine plantations, fynbos areas and dusty gravel roads, across cool mountain streams and through a game reserve and other areas of the larger Garden Route National Park.
Day 1 started with a short ride to the national park just off the N2 at the Perdekop Nature Walk. Our guide team consisted of leader Tiaan, later called Tarzan because of his bush saw, and two sweepers (Jessy and Murray). Some group members started spraying mosquito repellent in anticipation of the jungle phase of our walk, as it was termed. It was a beautiful tramp through rich, indigenous forest with copious underbrush adding to its jungle nature.
The humid conditions soon led to much sweating and heavy breathing as we navigated inclines and, you guessed it, declines. The muggy conditions added to the almost mysterious nature of the surroundings.
The dense brush and tall trees with lofty crowns provided us with some protection from the sun. Interspersed with interesting botanical and other bits of information, we often came across deep saw pits used by timber traders of yore. Just imagining the labour involved brought more sweat to our brows. Our progress was underscored by the loud harping of the Knysna lourie as a requiem for the death of those large Outeniqua yellowwoods long, long ago.
After a brief crossing of the N2 to the northern side of the jungle, we slowly wended our way to Greenfern Lodge, spotting a beautiful dwarf Knysna chameleon on a huge tree at the Garden of Eden waypoint. The pool, cold drinks and fortifying edibles in front of a huge bluegum tree created the backdrop to the 14km walk.
Day 2 started with a self-made breakfast and the stowing of prepared lunch packs for the day. This was to be a 'forest walk' of 14km to the Protea Wilds Retreat for the night. A wine tasting awaited us at Packwood Wine Estate along the way, the first of two such treats on the trip.
The route also included many hectares of pine tree plantation belonging to the MTO Group involved in forestry. The soft forest floor was so giving — what a beautiful part of the walk. Nature and nurture at its best.
I could revel in the luxury of the early autumn season's mist and mellow fruitfulness, mindless of apologies to Keats. Ups and downs, and sometimes round and round, we frolicked our way to Packmore Wines Packwood Wines, which was at the top of a steep hill. We worked hard for our money and wine!
Then we slowly walked down towards the open heart of Amanda and her beautiful facilities, including a cold pool, a beautiful viewpoint and a welcome dinner. In the distance, the Tsitsikamma Mountains shimmered in the late summer heat.
On Day 3 we descended into the Bitou Valley while being told of the history and geology of the area. We had significant cloud cover, which provided some relief, but the muggy conditions persisted, hampering our 16km walk.
The gentle descent was accompanied by a description of the type of rock in the area belonging to the Peninsula Formation sandstone stretching from Clanwilliam down to Gqeberha. Strike this rock and you will perceive a sulphurous smell. It is why falling rocks may cause fire.
The history of the area involved many different players, from the early Khoi to the modern-day diversity we experience. Frontier wars raged in this valley periodically, and different events, names and objects were recorded.
I tried imagining living in this area among these people as we wended our way down and across the river before ascending the opposite bank. The cool forested areas seemed alive with memories of past history as we crossed the Stofpad, all the while passing beautiful farms with verdant fields.
Finally, we traversed a gravel road, and suddenly Bella Manga Country Escape came into view: a lovely guest farm that promised a cold pool, drinks, food and, for those so inclined, massages to soothe the kilometres out of the legs.
Day 4 was to be an 18km walk, preceded by a self-made breakfast with multiple ingredients at hand. Hikers are quite creative when fuelling up for the day.
After 30 minutes, we would be at the gates of the Plettenberg Bay Game Reserve, 2,200ha boasting three of the Big Five: rhino, elephant and some feline species, as well as springbok, giraffe and crocodile.
We were deposited at a back gate on the lip of the Keurbooms River valley and descended into it under cloud cover. Its coolness and mystery captivated me, knowing there would be a cool river at its nadir. Our guide elucidated many interesting titbits along the way regarding flora and fauna.
A long, refreshing break was enjoyed after crossing the river at a pump station supplying Plett with water. After a little climbing we descended to a tributary called Whisky Creek. What a beautiful stream!
And then there was a very steep uphill path out of the valley. For the cheek of it, it was called Postman James. What had he been thinking, taking this route in the first place? We huffed and puffed our way up in record time, beating the pull of gravity.
After a brief sojourn to a guest hotel for some beverages, we descended to Kay and Monty Vineyards for more wine tasting (we just scoffed it). Then followed a short walk to our destination, 20 Good Summers, a guest farm whose name relates to the owner believing that's what he had left.
We were treated to an array of homemade pizzas against a beautiful sunset backdrop, along with tired but happy conversation for the last time as a group.
Day 5 was to be 12km of walking towards the N2 and the mouth of the Keurbooms River. A doddle, by now, in terms of improved fitness.
It was tinged with a mix of sadness and happiness and the prospect of a slap-up meal at Down to Earth, a fitting restaurant name considering the heights from which we had come. And, as the name implies, it was a gradual descent, with beautiful views of the valley itself and back to life on the N2 whizzing by.
And then a final au revoir. We all agreed that the organisation and attention to detail was wonderful, thanks to all the staff. Now for the long road home. DM
This story first appeared in our weekly Daily Maverick 168 newspaper, which is available countrywide for R35.