Is British Food Still a Joke?

New York Times

24-03-2025

Food Matters takes a closer look at what we eat and how it defines us.
It's hard to describe classic British dishes without reinforcing the stereotype that English food is bland, beige and soggy. Fish pie: a monochromatic pairing of milky cod and mashed potato. Mushy peas: boiled legumes puréed into pulp. Even summer pudding, filled with vibrant fresh berries, is encased in wet white bread. The English relationship to food is 'ambivalent, highly discordant and often superficial,' writes the British anthropologist Kate Fox in her 2004 book, 'Watching the English.' Maybe it was the Puritans' self-deprivation, or the Industrial Revolution, which separated working-class people from the land, or the rationing of World War II, but the English have rarely approached food with the full-bodied passion of the French or the Italians. Caring too much about what we eat has historically been embarrassing for us.
In the mid-20th century, immigrants from former colonies, including India, Pakistan and parts of the Caribbean, began to arrive in Britain in larger numbers, enriching the country's food with new flavors. And over the past two decades, London's restaurant scene has risen to a world-class level, with celebrated spots for Thai soup, Trinidadian roti and Nigerian barbecue. Now, finally, traditional British fare is improving too — and at the peak of a globalized high-end food culture that favors small plates and garnishes placed with tweezers, the unabashed plainness of it feels increasingly refreshing. A British man known as Old Dry Keith went viral on Chinese social media a couple of years ago with his austere lunches of buttered toast and boiled eggs. And in 2023, the British fashion house Burberry partnered with Norman's Cafe, a reboot of a classic English greasy spoon that opened in London in 2020, promoting its new collection with the help of starchy comfort food like chip butties (a carb-on-carb sandwich of thick fries in a bun).
If some of this attention can be attributed to a perverse fascination with British grimness — particularly of the type captured in the photographer Martin Parr's starkly lit images of sausages and baked beans — and even a kind of working-class cosplay, it also corresponds to a deeper reappraisal by a new generation of chefs. Last year, the London culinary institution St. John, run by the chef Fergus Henderson and known for its nose-to-tail British cooking, celebrated its 30th anniversary. Now the younger chefs who've passed through its kitchen and that of the similarly influential Rochelle Canteen, founded in 2004 by the chef Margot Henderson, Fergus's wife, have begun to open their own restaurants, offering fresh takes on the canon. 'Everyone criticized [us] because our food was so brown,' says Margot, 60, of the response to her and Fergus's early dishes. 'But we love brown food. It's about letting it be.' She's become known for remastering English standards like boiled ham with parsley sauce and Lancashire hot pot, a stew of lamb, potatoes and onion. 'British food is gentle and so simply [made],' she says. But 'simple is not easy.'
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