Chess, nature, food: Why Stavanger is Norway's most surprising city

Khaleej Times

2 days ago

It's just past five on an unusually crisp yet sunny May evening in Stavanger where the glass-panelled atrium of Finansparken, the iconic headquarters of SR Bank — one of Norway's biggest — is unusually abuzz. Small groups huddle in silence, eyes flitting between the oversized chess boards on display and the digital screens above them. Just a few metres away, legends of the game — some truly established, some in the making — Magnus Carlsen, Fabiano Caruana, Hikaru Nakamura, D Gukesh — sit in intense silence, locked in high-stakes battles that feel both timeless and immediate. The air hums with quiet tension; it's cerebral, yet electric.
This is Stavanger in its finest hour and this is Norway Chess – widely dubbed the 'Wimbledon of chess' after Garry Kasparov, one of the global game's definitive superheroes, first likened it to the elite tennis tournament in 2014, highlighting its growing prestige in the world of 64 squares. And this is the story of how it has made this coastal gem
where Nordic charm meets dramatic fjords, rich history and world-class culture — a surprising yet deserved pilgrimage spot for lovers of the game.
It may be a city often overshadowed by its flashier siblings like Bergen or Tromsø.
But once here, Stavanger charms instantly – with its cobbled lanes, old wooden houses in Gamle Stavanger (Old Stavanger), lively harbourside cafés, and panoramic fjord views that feel like living postcards — especially the one from Preikestolen or The Pulpit Rock made famous by a certain Tom Cruise in Mission: Impossible — Fallout. You'll find yourself strolling artfully muralled streets that could've well inspired U2 to sing Where the Streets Have No Name.
'This is the best time to visit,' says Gunhild Vevik, director of communications at Region Stavanger Visitors & Convention Bureau, as she guides us through a special three course tasting menu by celebrity chef Runa Kvendseth, a rising star in Norway's culinary scene, known for her innovative approach to traditional Norwegian cuisine. 'The weather is kind, the fjords are open, and with Norway Chess and Norway Summit on the sidelines, there's a unique global energy that blends beautifully with the quiet charm of our city.'
Summer in Stavanger…this time, every year
And it is this time of the year when the city of roughly 150,000, transforms into a global chess hub, drawing hundreds of players from across the world. Fans and enthusiasts join in too, travelling from as far and wide as India, the US, and China, not only to witness elite matchups but to experience the quiet allure of a Scandinavian city fast becoming the spiritual home of chess and much more. Then there are players like Rouda Al Serkal, the 15-year-old Emirati who earlier this year became the UAE's first Woman Grandmaster (WGM), making bold statements in this beautiful city.
'She's breaking barriers that we didn't even know existed,' says Kjell Madland, the founder and tournament director of Norway Chess, referring to the Abu Dhabi-based student who made her open category debut this year. 'Stavanger is no longer just a scenic city—it's a global meeting point for intellectual sport. For a young Emirati woman to compete here is inspirational. And so, more broadly, Stavanger is now on the map for a lot more people following her in the UAE and the rest of the region. It's chess that's bringing the world here.'
And the world should come.
Vevik says this as we continue our lunch at one of Stavanger's finest dining spots: Fisketorget Stavanger. Located right on the city's bustling harbour, Fisketorget isn't just a restaurant — it's a local institution. Here, the sea comes straight to your plate, and under the direction of chef Kvendseth, the menu elevates traditional seafood into elegant artistry. Our eclectic three-course lunch starts with a velvety fish soup made of halibut, shrimp, leek and the Ling, a firm, flaky white fish from the cold Nordic waters, prized in Norwegian cuisine for its delicate flavour and versatility in both traditional and modern dishes.
This is followed by a spectacularly pan-seared ling, resting on cauliflower purée and bathed in mussel sauce, with parsnips and potatoes on the side. The dessert? Mousse layered with - you guessed it — fresh Norwegian strawberries whose sweetness could rival the beautiful views of the harbour that's home to the Norwegian Petroleum Museum, charming old pubs, buzzing bars, and a front-row view of the city's maritime soul.
A city shaped by contrasts
Often known as Norway's oil capital, Stavanger is a city of contrasts, balancing its industrial roots with stunning natural beauty.
It is also home to one of Norway's most iconic monuments – Sverd i fjell, or the Swords in Rock. Located by the Hafrsfjord, the three towering bronze swords stand planted into solid rock, commemorating the Viking battle that unified Norway under the crown of King Harald Fairhair. It's
a spot that evokes silence and reflection – much like a chess endgame between grandmasters — and provides one of the city's
best photo ops.
And while you're at it, you might be standing just a short drive from Bryne, the birthplace of football superstar Erling Haaland who plays for the Abu Dhabi-owned Manchester City football club. It's also one more reason why sports fans of all stripes — Arsenal fans like me included — could pay attention to this corner of Norway.
Hub for a broader global conversation
But then Stavanger isn't just about chess, football and it unheralded beauty — it's also at the centre of a broader conversation. Running in parallel with Norway Chess is the Norway Summit, a high-profile business and innovation conference that draws global leaders, entrepreneurs, and changemakers, including Viswanathan Anand, India's first chess Grandmaster and a five-time World Champion, revered globally for revolutionising the game in India and inspiring generations.
Previous editions have welcomed speakers from global companies like Google, Microsoft, and SpaceX, alongside policymakers, economists and climate scientists. The synergy is intentional — chess as a metaphor for strategy and foresight, and Stavanger as the stage for both boardroom and board game brilliance. 'Norway Summit brings sharp minds together at the same time as Norway Chess. It shows how ideas, strategy, and global thinking all find a home here,' says Madland. 'It's no longer just a chess event; it's a movement.'
Getting there
Getting to Stavanger is surprisingly easy. From the UAE, flights by Emirates (direct connection) or Etihad to Oslo, followed by a short domestic hop to Stavanger Airport (SVG), get you into the city in less than a day. Alternatively, flights via Amsterdam or Copenhagen offer smooth connections. Once in Stavanger, the airport is just 15–20 minutes from the city centre, making the transition from runway to chessboard seamless.
A move worth making
Whether you're here to follow chess giants, attend cutting-edge summits, explore Viking history, or simply enjoy fresh fish and fjord air, Stavanger in May and June is unmatched. It's a place where brains, beauty and balance meet.
And like a well-played opening, it draws you in — quietly, deliberately, but completely.