Chorney-Booth: Where to find an omakase experience in Calgary
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For the uninitiated, omakase is often compared to a Western-style chef's tasting menu, but while that model involves diners obediently following the chef on a journey, a proper omakase chef will adjust the menu to suit the guest. Think of a chef's tasting menu as being like a presentation, whereas omakase should play out more like a conversation.
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That chef attention, coupled with high-end seafood and expert preparation means omakase is also famously expensive, with most local versions coming in at well over $100 per person and Michelin-starred examples in other cities often costing over $500. While the price may seem steep for what is typically about a dozen or more courses of nigiri, sashimi and appetizers, the experience can be mesmerizing and, for those who love it, well worth the price tag.
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Ryuko/Sushi Jun
Ryuko just opened its third full-service restaurant — this one in the Beltline at 1004 14th St. S.W. — but culinary director Jun Young Park's attention is also on his new sushi counter, Sushi Jun. Operating from an intimate sushi bar on the upper floor of Ryuko's original south location, the program is a pure expression of Park's deep love of traditional omakase. He offers three different tiers at dinnertime (ranging from $130 to $200) with the option of sake pairings.
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Park develops his daily menu after looking at the reservation book to glean some information about his guests while figuring in what's fresh from his fish suppliers. Not only does he carefully curate the menu, but times a music playlist to complement each dish.
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Winnipeg Free Press
11 hours ago
- Winnipeg Free Press
Chronicle of Second World War's end a riveting retelling
The year 2025 marks the 80th anniversary of the end of the Second World War. British popular historians James Holland and Al Murray detail the events leading up to the formal surrenders of Nazi Germany in May 1945 and Japan in September 1945. While there is nothing original or innovative in their account, it's a timely reminder of what they call 'the bitterness of war's true cost.' Holland and Murray underscore the delusion that drove the Nazi and Japanese regimes. Even as their fate became inevitable, elements in the political and military leadership of the Axis powers refused to acknowledge reality. They desperately clung to the belief that some new counterattack could stave off defeat. Thus they needlessly prolonged the war. Victory 45 The most enjoyable chapter in this book recounts VE Day — Victory in Europe Day — in London on May 8, 1945. The authors reconstruct the celebrations by invoking multiple perspectives: the Royal Family, then-Prime Minister Winston Churchill, ordinary young women who travelled to London to join the crowds and the playwright and actor Noel Coward. As Coward observed, 'I suppose this is the greatest day in our history.' The authors provide telling anecdotes that vividly evoke time and place. For example, Yelena Kagan, an interpreter with the Russian army, was walking amidst the death and destruction of Berlin when, incongruously, she heard the call of a nightingale. The birdsong, she thought, was 'an extraordinary reminder that life would continue, despite all that had happened.' Another remarkable story that Holland and Murray relate concerns the wartime experiences of United States General Jonathan Wainwright. He was taken prisoner by the Japanese and treated abominably. His weight dropped to 125 pounds (57 kilograms — his normal weight was about 170 pounds or 77 kilograms) but he survived and, after being liberated, he personally intervened to ensure a Japanese officer was shown the respect due his rank. Holland and Murray conclude with a lesson from history: military preparedness, they argue, is the best way to prevent war. Weekly A weekly look at what's happening in Winnipeg's arts and entertainment scene. They have depicted the closing acts of the Second World War in an engrossing narrative for a popular audience. Graeme Voyer is a Winnipeg writer.
Vancouver Sun
a day ago
- Vancouver Sun
Cook This: 3 recipes from Sunny Days, Taco Nights, including hard shells filled with a meaty mix
Our cookbook of the week is Sunny Days, Taco Nights by acclaimed Mexican chef Enrique Olvera with food critic Alonso Ruvalcaba. Jump to the recipes: hard-shell tacos , chorizo tacos and prawn tacos . A trip to Japan changed chef Enrique Olvera 's perspective on the taco. Born and raised in Mexico City, he was struck by the idea that respect for the street food staple could mirror that for sushi. As sushi spans various contexts and complexity, from 7-Elevens to legendary omakase restaurants, so too could tacos. 'The first time I went to Japan, I was very impressed by the fact that sushi had such a range,' says Olvera. 'When I went to a fancy omakase, of course, you would see the personality of the chef. It was very subtle, but you would see the differences in how they cooked the rice.' Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. Olvera's train of thought went from rice to tortillas. Japanese chefs make sushi rice their own, just as their Mexican counterparts have different techniques for nixtamalizing corn, from the rinsing to the grinding. Like rice in Japan, corn isn't only a core food but a critical crop that Mexican livelihoods depend on. He was also struck by how simple but seasonal sushi is. 'Good tacos are kind of the same,' says Olvera. 'Those three components changed the way I understood tacos. And that's where we started to say, 'OK, you can make three-Michelin-starred sushi. You can also do that with tacos.'' Olvera opened his first restaurant, the two-Michelin-starred Pujol , in 2000. Around 2010, they started experimenting with tacos for the first time, and in 2011, they created a menu centred on them. When Pujol expanded in 2017, the revamp included a 10-seat taco omakase, Mexico City's first taco tasting menu, according to The New York Times , which remains today. His deep appreciation for the taco — Mexico's 'super democratic' food — and the native corn at its foundation, led to Olvera's latest cookbook, Sunny Days, Taco Nights (with Alonso Ruvalcaba, Phaidon, 2025). 'It's for everyone,' Olvera says of the taco. 'It doesn't matter which social class you are or age group. Everybody loves them. And also, one great thing is that it's very adaptable. So, if you're making tacos in Canada, Mexico or Brazil, there's always the possibility of adaptation.' Olvera and Ruvalcaba, a food critic and close friend, had long talked about writing a taco book. When they first added tacos to the menu at Pujol, Ruvalcaba was fascinated by the fact that they were 'courageous' enough to serve tacos in a fine-dining setting, Olvera recalls. 'He's somebody who understands Mexican taco culture profoundly. He's not only a thinker, but an eater, so it was great to collaborate with him.' Like his last cookbook, Tu Casa Mi Casa (2019), the 100 recipes are for home cooks. Olvera says he's always been interested in functionality and writing books people can use. Restaurant cookbooks may be beautiful and inspiring, but they're difficult for non-professionals to cook from. Sunny Days, Taco Nights is divided into four parts: classic tacos, original tacos, salsas and tortillas. Rooted both in their neighbourhoods and regions, taquerias in Mexico are very specific, says Olvera. The opening classics chapter features Mexican street tacos illustrating this specificity, such as Yucatán-style cochinita pibil, Sinaloa-style fish and Tijuana-style grilled tacos. The originals showcase Olvera's contemporary, composed creations, requiring more preparation and components. Pujol's earliest taco explorations are among them, such as avocado flautas, sea bass tataki al pastor, sea urchin, and fish chorizo tacos, showing applications beyond the traditional. 'That's the beauty of tacos — that they literally can hold anything. You go to Los Angeles, for example, and see Mexican-Korean tacos, and they work great. And also, it's important for people to understand that tacos are a way of eating. It's not only a dish. If you have tortillas, you could make a taco out of anything.' Pujol celebrated its 25th anniversary in May. When Olvera was at culinary school in New York in the late 1990s, 'contemporary Mexican cuisine' wasn't yet part of the conversation. Having been professionally trained in European techniques, Olvera writes that he didn't feel confident enough in traditional Mexican recipes to reinterpret them in the restaurant's early days. But when he started to play with the street foods he loved as a child, such as robalito al pastor and quesadilla, that began to change. 'What's nice now is that I think people feel very comfortable using Mexican cuisine as a creative platform instead of a heritage cuisine. Before, Mexican chefs and people from outside saw Mexican food as something that was traditional and old and something that we must protect, but not something that we can use creatively to complement our own story or as a platform to create something more personal.' Today, Olvera sees Mexican techniques and ingredients popping up in restaurants around the world. At home, there's a 'huge movement in almost every corner of Mexico' of small, contemporary restaurants. 'I'm the first promoter of traditional and classic food, but I think this complements the variety, and it's nice just to play around with food.' Conserving Mexican corn has become central to Olvera's work, and the cover of Sunny Days, Taco Nights showcases its diversity, ranging in colour from golden yellow to deep blue. Olvera highlights that though we tend to speak of ingredients in singular form, 'everything is plural.' 'With corn, the more we know, the more we realize it's a huge universe. Because it's not only the varietals or the families, but the singular plants and how they also adapt to the terroirs, the same as coffee or wine, I think this is how we're going to start approaching most of the crops, where we recognize the differences, even if they're subtle, of temperature, of altitude, and of the plant itself.' How you nixtamalize, mill and cook corn can also have a huge impact, as can the thickness and shape of the tortilla. 'It can be as profound as you want it to be, and it could also be simple. And that's fine. I think those are the best products, when they can be very simple, very comforting, but also super complex and profound.' Makes: 4 For the filling: 2 tbsp olive oil 1/2 white onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 200 g (7 oz) bacon, finely chopped 300 g (10 1/2 oz) ground beef 300 g (10 1/2 oz) ground pork 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1/2 tsp black pepper Salt To serve: 4 crispy corn tortillas (store-bought) Guacamole (recipe follows) Pico de gallo (recipe follows) 2 lettuce leaves, chopped Lime wedges Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onion, garlic and bacon and sauté for 5 minutes or until the mixture begins to brown. Add the beef and pork and sauté for 10 minutes, until the meat is cooked through. Stir in the soy sauce, mustard and Worcestershire sauce, Season with the pepper and salt. Fill the tortillas with the meat filling. Top with guacamole, pico de gallo and lettuce. Serve with lime wedges on the side. Makes: 1 1/4 cup (300 mL) 1 serrano chili, thinly sliced into rings, with seeds 1 clove garlic 1/2 white onion, finely chopped 4 avocados, pitted and cubed 2 tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped Chopped cilantro leaves Juice of 3 key limes Salt In a molcajete or large mortar and pestle, crush the chili, garlic and onion into a paste. Add the avocados and gently mash. Using a spoon, mix in the tomatoes, cilantro and lime juice. Season with salt. Serve the guacamole in the molcajete or mortar and pestle. The guacamole can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 day. Makes: 1 1/4 cup (300 mL) 20 cilantro leaves, finely chopped 10 tomatoes, finely chopped (see note) 2 serrano chilies, stemmed and finely chopped 1 white onion, finely chopped Pinch of salt Juice of 1 key lime Combine all the ingredients in a bowl. The pico de gallo can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 day. Note: If you like, remove the tomato seeds to avoid excess liquid. Makes: 4 For the green chorizo: 2 large bunches spinach, leaves only 1 large bunch cilantro, large stems removed 1 small bunch parsley, leaves only 3 serrano chiles, stemmed 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp salt 1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) ground pork 250 g (9 oz) lard 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tbsp black pepper 1 tbsp ground coriander seeds 1 tbsp ground oregano 1/2 tbsp ground cloves 1 cup (100 g) chopped pumpkin seeds, roasted Scant 1 cup (100 g) chopped peanuts, roasted Scant 1 cup (100 g) chopped almonds, roasted 3/4 cup (100 g) raisins 2 tbsp olive oil To serve: 4 corn tortillas 1/2 white onion, finely chopped 10 cilantro leaves, chopped 4 lime wedges Your choice of sauces Fill a saucepan three-quarters full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath by putting a little ice and water in a deep bowl. When the water begins to boil, add the spinach and herbs separately in batches. Cook each for 2 minutes, then transfer to the bowl with the ice to cool. Transfer the spinach and herbs to a blender. Add the serrano chiles, vinegar and salt. Blend until smooth. In a large bowl, combine the meat, lard, spices, pumpkin seeds, nuts, raisins and spinach mixture. Refrigerate for 2 hours to marinate. Heat a medium skillet over high heat. Add the olive oil and the marinated meat and cook for 10 minutes or until the meat is cooked through. Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through. Transfer to a plate and top each tortilla with 2-3 tablespoons of green chorizo. Serve with onion, cilantro, lime wedges and your choice of sauces on the side. Makes: 4 For the marinated prawns: 10 dried guajillo chilies 5 dried ancho chilies 1/2 white onion, coarsely chopped 3 cloves garlic 2 tbsp vegetable oil 15 raw prawns, peeled, deveined and diced 100 g (3 1/2 oz) Chihuahua cheese, grated For the bean paste: Scant 1/2 cup (100 g) black beans, soaked overnight 1/4 tsp salt 2 tbsp olive oil 1 white onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 dried chiles de árbol To serve: 4 corn tortillas 4 tbsp bean paste 3 tbsp marinated prawns 1/2 white onion, thinly sliced 2 serrano chilies, stemmed and thinly sliced into rings 6 lettuce leaves, chopped Cilantro leaves, whole 4 lime wedges Put the chilies, onion and garlic in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Simmer for 10 minutes or until the chilies are softened. Drain. Transfer the onion mixture to a blender and blend into a thick paste. Preheat a skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, the prawns and the chili paste to the pan. Sauté for 7 minutes or until the mixture just starts to turn a deep red colour (or darkens). Sprinkle with the cheese and let it melt. Place the beans in a saucepan, then add twice the amount of water. Add the salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer for 45 minutes or until the beans are softened. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and sauté for 15 minutes or until the onion is caramelized. Add the beans with their cooking liquid and the chilies and cook for 15 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend into a homogeneous paste. Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through. Transfer to a plate, spread 1 tablespoon of bean paste on each tortilla, then top with cheese-covered prawns. Top with the onion, serrano chili, lettuce and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges on the side. Recipes and images excerpted from Sunny Days, Taco Nights ©2025 by Enrique Olvera. Photography ©2025 by Araceli Paz. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved. Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here .
Japan Forward
a day ago
- Japan Forward
Summer Means It's Yukata Time!
Nothing speaks of the enjoyment of Japanese summer like seeing crowds of happy people all out in the streets wearing colorful, floral yukata. If we are to be truthful here, the summer is, in reality, brutally hot. And there is not a lot that can be done to cool you down when stomping on the melting asphalt under the burning solar rays. Urban Tokyo is a veritable furnace, and other major urban centers are equally roasting with temperatures hitting record highs in 2025. In spite of the climate, the Japanese summer is not complete without everyone pouring into the streets to enjoy wearing yukata and dancing to live or recorded music at bon dances. People also play games at festivals and gather in crowded spaces after dark to watch stunning fireworks light up the night sky. When we were all in lockdown a few years ago, one of the things that was so sad was that the heat arrived without all the celebrations of the season. It actually felt like summer never happened. Dancers at the Ebisu bon odori Festival. (©Sheila Cliffe) There are no activities in my own culture that compare with the Japanese events that mark this hot season. The celebrations of Japanese summer are very inclusive and everyone, from anywhere, and of any age can enjoy these activities. They are also held, for the most part, in public spaces. Everyone can enjoy themselves together. Alcohol can be drunk, street food consumed, and children play games for goldfish, balls, or balloons. July and August are the peak season for wearing yukata, but with increasing heat, people are also continuing to wear them into September. On July 7, Tanabata, the star festival, is celebrated, when Altair and Vega romantically meet across the Milky Way. Bamboos are decorated with papers upon which wishes are inscribed. Wind chimes can be heard, and of course, people start to wear yukata. Then comes Obon, when ancestors are welcomed back to their families, and celebrated with dancing in the street and taiko drums. All over Japan, whether celebrated in early July or in August, depending on the location, people come out to dance in a circle to the sound of the drums. Scenes from the Yukata de Ginbura Festival in Tokyo's Ginza. (©Sheila Cliffe) Often there is a yagura, a scaffolding tower in the center, and dancers who know the dances dance there, and everyone else watches them, or the person in front. There is no show, no competition, and the circle is a great equalizer. Nobody is concerned if you know the moves or not — it is the participation that is important. There are some dances that are performed everywhere, but many come from specific locations and are revived every year. One of my favourites is a slow dance, Soma Ondo, which comes from Soma in Fukushima. Soma suffered badly after the nuclear disaster in Fukushima, and I remember this when I take part in this dance. Ebisu in Tokyo is the home of Yebisu beer, who sponsor the Bon Odori event near the station. Although this festival has ended, there is still time to catch bon dancing wherever you are in Japan. People dancing on the yagura at the Ebisu Station Bon Odori festival. (©Sheila Cliffe) All kinds of summer festivals also take place on shopping streets. Over the weekend of August 2–3, yukata walking in Ginza took place. There was plenty of dancing, performances, and even special markets. There were games for children in department stores and on the streets. The local police and fire service took the opportunity to demonstrate skills in the street. People in yukata resting in front of the Ginza Six shopping complex. (©Sheila Cliffe) People rode a car demonstrating the effectiveness of safety belts, while the fire service raised a man in a crane to stupendous heights, to the surprise of those watching. Many stores and bars also put on yukata events. Gigabar, a music bar in Aoyama, held a yukata party. They also recently played live music at Haneda Airport dressed in yukata. Kato Yoshie for Gigabar sings at Haneda Airport. (©Sheila Cliffe) The Tohoku region is famous for amazing summer festivals, the most famous of which is Nebuta, where huge painted washi sculptures with lights inside are paraded through the streets after dark in Aomori. Spectacular Floats Light up Summer in Northeastern Japan A colorful Nebuta float parades through the city streets during the Aomori Nebuta Festival. (©Sankei) Sendai's Tanabata is famous for the beautiful decorations, and Akita's famous Kanto festival has bamboo structures with lamps dangling from them that light up the streets. Yamagata has Hanagasa Festival, where distinctive hats are wielded by dancers who perform in the streets. There are still lots of events coming up, where you can enjoy the Japanese summer. Get in the mood by wearing a yukata. There are Obon festivals, fireworks, water splashing festivals, morning glory festivals, and the end of the summer festivals. Check out your local news to find the ones near you and get in the groove with your favourite yukata. Author: Sheila Cliffe
