72 Hours Of Timeless Tradition & Natural Serenity At The Aman Kyoto

Grazia USA

24-06-2025

Bliss in the hinterlands of Kyoto. After a week of frenetic walking, eating and shopping in Osaka, the Aman Kyoto was the perfect escape antidote. Set on 80 acres of moss-covered gardens amidst the trees on the outskirts of Kyoto, it was pure peace and, unsurprisingly, has the unique ability to remain in your memory long after the experience has gone.
Opened in 2019, the resort consists of beautifully laid out dark wood and glass modernist pavilions. Each building serves its own distinct function; arrival, living, dining and spa pavilions complement the four guest pavilions that comprise 24 guest suites. The rooms all had the hallmark understated simplicity and elegance that make staying at an Aman location such a unique experience.
We stayed in the west-facing room, Kaede, which means maple leaf or tree. In Japan, maple signifies balance, harmony and renewal, which makes perfect sense as you enter any of the interiors at the Aman Kyoto. Our room served a calming neutral colour palette of soft oak tones framed by the stunning leafy green foliage and sunlight streaming in the floor-to-ceiling windows.
It was a contemporary reimagining of the traditional ryokan, minimalist luxury. Behind the bed, sliding wood screens gave access to the ofuru bathtubs, wooden cubes of hinoki cypress, almost a metre and a half square. The clever wood panels also disguise the television and mini bar. The former, I didn't need to switch off in this sanctuary. The fine tatami mats covering the floors act like textured grass underfoot, while the floor-to-ceiling windows frame the outdoor view for the feeling of forest bathing. Even the tokonoma [alcoves where items for artistic appreciation, like the finely crafted scrolls and vases] were beyond easy on the eye, especially when visual expression is something I do for a living.
Turn-down service is something we joke about in my family, as my daughter Grace [seen here] has experienced since her toddler years, when we were fortunate to travel and stay at 5-star resorts for my work as a stylist. While it may sound glamorous, realistically, most of the time, I would be out shooting from dawn to dusk without really getting to enjoy the luxuries.
Yet nothing could beat the kind gestures and treats left for us in our room each evening at the Aman. My favourites were these shiori handcrafted bookmarks—'shiori' meaning the action of folding a tree branch as a mark in the way. Shifted from its original meaning, the bookmarks represent marking between the pages, tracing back and continuing your adventure in the secret gardens. I continue to use my embroidered bookmark today to remind me of my precious time in the Kaede room.
I immediately headed for the onsen. It did not disappoint. Traditional onsen bathing facilities—outdoor, private and covered—utilise water from a local natural mineral hot spring to deliver pure relaxation.
I was fortunate to soak in the covered outdoor rock pool solo, taking in the forest atmosphere. Shinrin-yoku, a Japanese term coined to combine the healing benefits of mindfulness and nature, was well and truly underway, and has been footnoted in my meditative thoughts wherever I am today.
Aman Kyoto's spa offers treatments with healing ingredients unique to the area. These include Kyoto green tea, local sake and Tanba Kuromame black soy beans. The gold leaf mineral boosting mask takes inspiration from the nearby Kinkaku-ji Temple. You'll find 24ct gold leaf in the foot rituals as well, along with rice bran Azuki, natural sea salt, and sake, all set to calm and reduce inflammation. It's a peaceful respite, especially after a long day of sightseeing, Kyoto's endless rich heritage of temples, historic tea houses and fine craft shops.
Afterwards, I wandered the gardens. They comprise 72 acres of permanent forest and eight acres of stone and moss gardens. The gardens have been developed over many decades, originally owned by one of the finest Nishijin Textile shops in Kyoto. The former owner was a lover of ancient ruins and collected rare and famous stones from all over Japan. To respect this living heritage site, Aman has restored the historic garden to recreate the lost landscape of the Edo period.
I travelled along these mossy cobblestones and stone pathways, which led around the buildings of the multi-level property and into the forest. The more you walk, the more you contemplate, and the more you find hidden treasures like the worn stone buddhas with offerings of citrus hidden amongst the moss. One day, I walked along a path into the cedar and cypress woods only to find a massive moss-covered stone staircase up into the woods leading to nowhere. No wonder it's called the Secret Garden.
Tucked along the pathways and massive stone slab walls were many viewpoints and stone benches—perfect for watching the sun stream through the evergreens. Every season provides a kaleidoscope of change from winter's camellias and evergreen Japanese cedars and wood ferns, through to spring's burst of plum blossoms and summer's plethora of peonies, hydrangeas and irises. Autumn would be my favourite season to experience, with ample fiery red and orange foliage, an oasis of calm to envelop nature and set your mind at ease.
Breakfast is perhaps my favourite meal. Hence, I was torn between a Western and a traditional Japanese style. So we chose both. The spectacular Japanese breakfast consisted of fermented foods like pickles and miso, along with Obanzui, local vegetables and Chawanmushi, an egg custard from local free-range eggs.
I couldn't resist the sashimi sea urchin and tuna, not realising this was followed by your choice of Wagyu beef or fish of the day. The idea of a Japanese breakfast being considered ideal for longevity and a healthy start to the day was an understatement. Save some space for the creamy soya milk porridge, after all, the saying goes that porridge has ten Merits. Made from handmade soya milk from the famous Tofu Shop 'Toyouke-ya' close to Aman Kyoto, it is totally delightful, especially if you wrap it up with a locally made Matcha tea.
Designed in harmony was a major consideration with the scale of the stand-alone pavilions to balance within the leafy gardens. The goal was to respect the simplicity of traditional Japanese architecture while still feeling contemporary. I was quite struck by the Tamba Himeji megalight stone, which greets you at the front gate. These finishing touches, like the various statues situated in the garden and cobble pathways, leave you contemplating and eager to explore more.
When considering the finer details, you can't go past Aman Kyoto's signature restaurant in the Living Pavilion. The central fireplace and glass doors opening on the zen garden provide a cosy atmosphere while we sampled the local Kyoto-style cuisine with a 'Land to Table' concept. Every dish appeared like a work of art, using locally sourced seasonal ingredients.
Local Landmarks
Keen to stay in my peaceful state, I chose to walk fifteen minutes to the famous golden Kinkaku-ji Temple. A gorgeous wooden Kinkakuji (金閣寺, Golden Pavilion) is a Zen temple whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf.
Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and according to his will, it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Amidst the throngs of tourists, it was still an incredibly picturesque sight to behold.
Closer to the centre of Kyoto, I found more spirituality and tourists at the Chionin (知恩院), the head temple of the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism.
The temple has spacious grounds and large buildings, including its massive Sanmon Gate. Chionin is located north of Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto's Higashiyama District.
If you have time, perhaps on your way out of Kyoto, be sure to visit the Unryu-in Temple, a Buddhist sub-temple of the large Sennyuji Temple. It's a hike, but this seldom-visited tiny temple is a secret, silent treasure worth the photo op of the gorgeous gardens seen through four square windows known as the Windows of Delusions.
Zen Experiences
If you are a guest at Aman Kyoto, enjoy the practice of Zen with resident monks offering expert guidance. Options include meditation at a temple, tea ceremonies, calligraphy, and ikebana flower arrangement.
Location
Aman Kyoto is situated in the foothills of the iconic Hidari Daimonji mountain, Kyoto's northern Takamine district.
Getting There
It is a 2-hour drive, a 90-minute express train ride from Kansai International Airport, and 1 1-hour drive from Osaka International Airport [Itami]. It is about 30 minutes by car from Kyoto Station.
Book your stay at Aman Kyoto here.