Travelling in Japan gives me Paris syndrome in reverse
It is Easter and while bells are merrily pealing through the western world to celebrate Christ's resurrection, I'm bathing naked in a hot spring at Fukuji, in the Japanese Alps. The singing of birds, the sound of leaves rustling in the spring breeze and the body's immersion in hot water on a bed of rocks feel no less transcendental than listening to the voice of angels at Notre-Dame cathedral. In fact, I find everything about Japan magical. To the point that it could qualify as an addiction, a pathology in search of a name. It is the Paris syndrome in reverse.
Have you heard of Paris syndrome? Japanese tourists suffer from it most. In a nutshell, those visitors' view of Paris is so idealised that when they finally get to visit the French capital, some of them experience such acute disappointment that they end up at psychiatric hospitals' emergency rooms suffering from hallucinations, tachycardia, fainting spells and feelings of persecution. Every year, a few of them need repatriation. I suffer from a diametrically opposed syndrome. This week, on my fourth trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, I am experiencing it again, as potent as ever.
The symptoms are a state of permanent wonder, a feeling of intense satisfaction and deep marvel at the perfection of the Japanese lifestyle and mentality. Being French, and therefore sceptical, I do my best to try to find fault lines that may crack this idyllic image. However, to this day, I haven't identified a single failing. I know what you are going to say: we gaijins tend to see Japan through rose-tinted glasses. Reality is darker and Japanese society can feel claustrophobic, rigid and sexist for its own citizens. All the same, Japan's perfection moves me to tears.
• 16 of the best Japan tours
A few years ago, I found myself silently crying in my miso soup in a family restaurant in Nara. The place was made of wood, hay, sand and stone, there were no contemporary devices, no plastic. We could have been living in the 17th century, the place would have looked the same.
The lady serving us was in simple traditional clothes and the utensils used were made of ceramics and wood. Needless to say, the food was heavenly. And then, suddenly, out of nowhere, rose the music of Debussy, followed by Bach and Ravel. The emotion was too intense. I had not been prepared for this temporal collision, this explosion of beauty in a marriage of true minds as East met West.
I can never completely switch off, even in Japan. World affairs are my other fix in life. I was amused to hear that the socialist MP and former French president François Hollande suggested creating a new status in France for 'scientific refugees'. On his radar are American and US-based scientists either deprived of funding by the Trump administration or simply in need of a more welcoming and less illiberal environment. Britain and Germany are obviously well placed to lure those bright minds to their shores. However, France, with this potential special status (easing all the red tape for 'scientific refugees') alongside its top-notch and affordable health system and free education for children could prove particularly tempting.
A few weeks ago, we learnt that Volodymyr Zelensky spoke every day to Emmanuel Macron. This week, I heard that King Charles spoke 'very often' to the French president. I was therefore not surprised to discover that Macron would beat Trump to Windsor. He, it seems, will enjoy all the tra-la-la of an official state visit in Britain at the end of May while Donald Trump will have to wait until the autumn.
In truth, Britain and France have far more in common these days, and important matters to discuss and agree on, than most countries. Being the two main military powers in Europe, their recent show of unity and determination on Ukraine has been both inspiring and heart-warming. Long may it last!
Giles Coren is away
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Tatler Asia
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Tatler Asia
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Café Comma, Seoul, South Korea In Seoul's Hapjeong neighbourhood, Café Comma spans six storeys and is operated by the South Korean publishing house Munhak Dongne. Widely known as one of the world's most beautiful book caféa, it offers a sensory feast: sun-drenched reading lounges, quiet corners and a dramatic, multi-storey book wall. When one is done losing themselves in a novel, they can head to the rooftop terrace for a serene moment with sweeping views of the cityscape. Don't Miss: 5 must-visit Seoul cafés for coffee culture lovers Jimbocho Book Center, Tokyo, Japan Above Jimbocho Book Center is located in Jimbocho, Tokyo's famed Book Town (Photo: Jimbocho Book Center Official Website) Located in Jimbocho, Tokyo's famed Book Town, Jimbocho Book Center is a caffeine-fuelled haven for readers. Its walls are lined with thousands of books, mostly in Japanese, making it a draw for local readers and international visitors alike. Digital nomads favour the café for its comfortable seating, plentiful power outlets and calm atmosphere. Beyond quality coffee, the menu includes Japanese curry, khao man gai, cheesecake, and a curated selection of beer and whisky. Flobookstore, Bangkok, Thailand Part coffee shop, part design showroom, Flobookstore sits within FLOHOUSE—a creative space that blends FLO's Thai-designed furniture, LIVID Coffee Roasters and a curated collection of art and design books. Visitors can savour single-origin brews while relaxing on minimalist furniture and exploring design tomes. This café is ideal for those seeking creative inspiration or simply a quiet, aesthetically pleasing place to linger. Book Bar, Singapore Above Book Bar is an independent bookstore and café (Photo: Book Bar Official Website) Book Bar is a cosy literary hideout in Singapore that blends bookshop charm with community spirit. This independent café and bookstore champions Singaporean and Asian voices through its thoughtful curation. Guests are encouraged to browse, sip and stay a while. It also hosts author events and discussions, drawing a crowd of readers, writers and creatives. On the menu: coffee, tea, sandwiches, desserts and a welcoming atmosphere. Books & Co, Hong Kong Entering Books & Co is like stepping into a favourite bibliophile uncle's private library while auntie prepares a comforting meal of toast and coffee in the kitchen. It's a quaint little space that offers an escape from the city's high-energy pace, and has so much character that one of its claims to fame is that it has been used as a filming location. Every nook and cranny of Books & Co. is filled with a wide range of secondhand books, ready for another reader to dive into their pages. Bleu&Book, Taipei, Taiwan Set within Taipei's Huashan 1914 Creative Park, Bleu&Book mirrors the park's artistic spirit with its thoughtfully designed interiors and eclectic curation. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the space with natural light, creating a warm, elegant atmosphere where guests can sit with a book and enjoy a perfectly brewed cup of coffee. The shelves are lined with a well-curated mix of local and international titles spanning literature, art, design, and film. More than just a café and bookstore, it's a gathering place for creative minds and a quiet celebration of Taipei's thriving literary culture.
