The Karakol kaleidoscope

New Indian Express

06-07-2025

Surrounding the cathedral, Karakol's residential neighbourhoods have maintained their neat grid of one and two-storeyed homes since the town's earliest days. The dwellings here were first made of adobe bricks, but after being damaged in earthquakes, wood became the predominant construction material. Endearingly nicknamed 'gingerbread' houses, they were built by thriving merchants at the turn of the 20th century. With their pastel colours, panelled shutters, and flowering gardens, they are charming sideshows of history.
Just a short walk from the cathedral lies the 115-year-old Dungan Mosque, one of Karakol's most unexpected treasures. Built by the Dungan community, who settled in the city from the 1870s onwards fleeing persecution in China, the mosque pays homage to the traditions of their homeland. Constructed primarily from poplar and elm wood, every structural component was painstakingly prepared over three years and then assembled swiftly in three months without using a single nail.
Inside, under the yellow pitched roof, the mihrab (a prayer niche that points towards Mecca) is framed by an intricate wooden portal. But it's the exterior that turns heads. The guide enthusiastically draws attention to the multi-tiered cornice running across the brackets. 'Observe the carvings here. Not only are there plants and fruits, but also—rather unexpectedly—phoenixes and dragons. Where else would you spot that in a mosque?' asks our guide proudly.
Karakol's architectural richness hides in plain sight. All it takes is a bit of context, some curiosity, and a passionate Kyrgyz narrator to bring it home.