Chez George — Hotel Review

Condé Nast Traveler

22-05-2025

Why book?
Set on a hilltop in the historic Santa Teresa neighborhood of Rio De Janeiro, Chez Georges is a striking example of Brazilian Brutalism, offering sweeping 360-degree views of Sugarloaf Mountain and Guanabara Bay. Just a 20-minute drive from the vibrant Copacabana Beach, its secluded setting feels like an urban retreat, where time slows down and the morning begins with the gentle sound of birds. Whether lounging by the 50-foot pool, listening to soft Brazilian music from the record player, or watching the sunset, Chez Georges offers a tranquil, almost dreamlike escape.
Set the scene
It was early morning when I stepped out of my Uber and found myself in front of a large wooden door that resembled a garage. A keypad was mounted beside it, and a voice crackled through the speaker, asked for my name, and then buzzed me in. I walked into what appeared to be a garage, where a glass-clad elevator waited. Pressing the button for the top floor, the elevator climbed two stories, where the view gradually opened up around me. The boutique hotel itself was airy and minimalist. What struck me were the small, artistic details—artwork tucked into bookcases alongside records, candlesticks, Portuguese books, and musical instruments. Colored glass light fixtures hung from the ceiling in the lobby, casting soft reflections. Outside, a wooden deck stretched out with lounge chairs positioned toward the pool and the hotel. The open doors let in the gentle sounds of birds, and the peaceful atmosphere made the entire place feel like home. The staff seemed young, and upon arrival, I was the only one there.
The backstory
Wladimir Alves de Souza, a prominent Brazilian architect known for his contributions to Brazilian Brutalism and Modernism, designed the original residence in 1974. The property was constructed as a private home in Rio de Janeiro's historic Santa Teresa neighborhood. Decades later, in 2019, the property was transformed into a boutique hotel by Pierre Bident Moldeva, a technology entrepreneur, and Olivier Verwilghen, a musician. Despite having no prior experience in hospitality, the two were drawn to the idea of creating the kind of space that reflected their personal aesthetics. One of the distinctive features of Chez Georges is its integration of music into the architectural design. The villa includes a recording studio connected to a music production room located beneath the villa's private pool. The interior design features a mix of Brazilian and European modernism, with furnishings sourced from antique markets in Paris, Brussels, and Ghent, alongside pieces by Brazilian designer Ricardo Fasanello, like the dining room chairs.
The rooms
While Chez Georges may be modest in size, with only a handful of suites, the rooms themselves feel anything but small. Each suite is designed with 70s-inspired minimalism. Inside, you'll find a standard wardrobe, desk, and queen-size bed, but it's the floor-to-ceiling windows that steal the show, opening onto a shared balcony with sweeping views that's perfect to watch the sunrise. The design blends grey concrete ceilings, muted earth tones, and richly textured hardwoods to create a calm, grounded atmosphere. The bathroom, featuring a wooden sink and blue and white mosaic walls, also offers a view—this time of Santa Teresa and the concrete pergola outside. Each suite is named after a legendary musician named George, from Harrison to Benson, and notably, there are no televisions, encouraging guests to truly unplug.
Food and drink
There's no dinner service, but the hotel more than makes up for it with a generous array of breakfast options: Mornings begin with Pão de queijo, a colorful plate of fresh fruits like dragonfruit, kiwi, mango, and grapes, along with a selection of cold plates, cakes, toast, eggs, and freshly pressed fruit juices.
The neighborhood/area
The hotel opens directly onto the Santa Teresa Tram, also known as the Bondinho—a historic tramway that's been in operation since 1877. As one of the world's oldest street railways, it offers a scenic and nostalgic ride over Arcos da Lapa and into downtown Rio, making it a charming and accessible way to explore the city. Just steps from the tram, the street is lined with lively restaurants, bars, clothing boutiques, and souvenir shops. A five-minute walk away, you'll find Indecente Café, a vibrant new coffee shop that offers a cozy atmosphere and a menu of paninis and lattes. While Santa Teresa quiets down in the evening, late-night options are still available, like Ago, a laid-back Afro-Brazilian bar about a ten-minute walk from the hotel, serving fried shrimp pastries and smoked cinnamon cocktails in a welcoming space.
The service
Truly the highlight of my stay. Though the atmosphere was laid-back, the staff were exceptionally warm and attentive, always ready with suggestions on things to do and the best ways to get around. Upon arrival, I was greeted with a welcome drink and a sense that nothing was too much to ask. They addressed me by name and took time during breakfast to chat about my travels and my experience in Brazil. One staff member shared how much they loved working there because it allowed them to live in their beautiful country while meeting people from all over the world. One evening, when I mentioned I was a bit hungry, someone kindly opened the kitchen and brought me a freshly sliced mango to enjoy in my room. There was always someone willing to help, and they were dedicated to giving me a good experience.
Accessibility
There's an elevator to get up to the main property and accessible suites on the ground floor.