The pick of three months in Central America
The isthmus connecting North and South America may not be too massive on a map. Still, the seven compact nations that make up Central America — eight if we were to include Mexico's southeastern-most Yucatan peninsula — have a lot going for them. Most travellers start north in Cancun or south in Panama City or Costa Rica's San Jose, but get lost from there. Do you know which Central American countries to pick for your next adventure? Read on.
It's no secret that Costa Rica will dent your budget considerably. With a market oriented towards (rich) North American tourists, Costa Rica is feared by budget backpackers and has a tourism infrastructure that favours mid-range and high-end travellers — as it's so different from the rest, to me, it's not the best place to start a Central American jaunt. The Nicoya Peninsula on the southwestern Pacific Coast is where accommodation normally surpasses $150 a night, and everything is catered towards high-spending tourists. Areas like the Peninsula de Osa on the Pacific southeast can be more affordable — don't skip delightful Dos Brazos de Rio Tigre, a little Indigenous-run community tourism hub — and the north-eastern Caribbean Coast around Puerto Viejo is still unspoiled and better bang for your dollar, but in general, expect entries to national parks with compulsory guided tours to cost up to $150 per person. Like many travellers, be prepared budget-wise, stay shorter or skip entirely.
Hear the word 'Honduras' and red flags raise everywhere — I was like you, too, and at first took an expensive tourist shuttle to bypass the country from Nicaragua to El Salvador. Stopping at a bus station and a fortunate later guidebook assignment covering the nation taught me one thing again: don't listen to stereotypes and the media. Since Xiomara Castro, Honduras' first female president, came to power in 2021, the country has seen a resurgence, especially in safety and infrastructure. It was among the friendliest and most budget-friendly Central American nations I visited. It's also extremely varied: from the Maya ruins at Copan to the Bay Islands of the Caribbean (pick Utila for mellower vibes and Roatan for a well-oiled mass tourist machine and family vacations), from the whitewater rafting and waterfalls at Rio Cangrejal to the Lenca highlands of La Esperanza and Gracias, not forgetting the stunning birdwatching hotspot that's Lake Yojoa and capital Tegucigalpa, an exciting town straddled amidst mountains. Honduras doesn't just surprise: it makes you fall in love.
You may know about El Salvador because of the infamous President Nayib Bukele, who cleaned up the country of pretty much all criminals and gang-related violence since coming into power in 2019, transforming the world's most feared country into an abode of peace. Ethics and politics aside, under a tourism perspective, this is the best and safest time to visit El Salvador: Bukele's presidency has made the smallest of the Central American republics proud of itself again, with a resulting booster to the morale of the people, who can now be as welcoming as they ever were, yet without stressful risks. The country is stunning, too: the Volcano de Santa Ana is a short hike to a caldera filled with a shade-switching turquoise lake. Surfers will love the southern coasts from El Tunco to the west and La Union to the east. And those who love cobbled streets and colonial cities should not miss Suchitoto in the central highlands, and the towns of the Ruta de las Flores in the West — especially Juayua and Apaneca, with their waterfalls, extinct volcanoes and lagoons. Did I mention that the country is cheap as hell, too? You can cross it using local buses for less than $10, and the local pupusas — a fried corn tortilla stuffed with beans and cheese you'll remember until death — are 50c each.
Being one of the largest nations, Guatemala also harbours a lot of different shades of natural beauty. The southwestern highlands are the most popular, studded with volcanoes like the ever-active Fuego, near the 16th-century colonial city and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Antigua, and the beautiful Lake Atitlan. The southern Pacific coast has surf-ready beaches like party central El Paredon, and not too far away on the Caribbean seaboard, the rivertown of Rio Dulce is the starting point for an amazing boat trip to Livingston, the coastal abode of the Garifuna community. North of there, the harsh plains of the Peten brings to the cobblestone-idyll that's the islet of Flores, also the gateway to Tikal, the mother of all Maya ruins.
Due to its turbulent past and current regime, Nicaragua is often considered as the region's black sheep, but travel there is absolutely rewarding — although it can pose some troubles. Drones are forbidden in Nicaragua, so leave yours at home, or ship it to the next country you'll visit. If your profession is in any way related to media, state so and say you are not a reporter — they are not welcome. Other than that, Nicaragua has great party beaches like San Juan del Sur and an incredible double-volcanic island, Ometepe, whose Volcano Concepcion is a tough almost vertical climb and the tallest in the country. Granada has colonial charms and Leon adds layers of history, artistry and coolness to the mix. On the Caribbean side, the Little and Big Corn islands are Nicaragua's version of tropical paradise, and in-between, the highlands around Matagalpa and Somoto will reward trekkers and nature lovers.
Belize is another small nation in the region, and one that's most often only linked with its northern cayes, Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye, speckles of white sand floating in all shades of blue paradise. To their east is the Blue Hole, an underwater marvel and one of the world's deepest marine sinkholes, a joy for worldly divers. But compact Belize — it takes about four hours drive to cross it in every direction — was also the abode of the Maya, and is rich in beautiful ruins such as Lamani, Altun Ha and Xunantunich near the town of San Ignacio, a quiet and charming rivertown, not forgetting the country's Creole Caribbean character that comes more prominent in the southern coastal regions of Punta Gorda and Placencia. Belize is among the most expensive of the Central American lot, but it still offers good value and plenty of budget options.
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West Australian
17-05-2025
- West Australian
Belize's Northern Cayes: what to do in tropical paradise
Aussies are spoiled for nearby tropical island destinations, but for those who want something different, I am visiting Belize, a tiny Central American country just south of Mexico. Belize sits right next to the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef — the world's second biggest, after Australia's Great Barrier Reef. And there are many islands (named 'cayes' at these latitudes, and largely made of ever-shifting bases of coral) peppering the cerulean Caribbean along Belize's eastern shore. Ambergris Caye is Belize's biggest island — and its most popular. Even Madonna once sang about the seductive lure of its main town, San Pedro. An hour by water taxi from Belize City, San Pedro is small and compact and has an airport, and tourists from the United States and Canada come here in droves looking for a slice of 'island paradise'. Roads are packed with golf carts (the most common form of transport in Ambergris Caye) alongside rows of shops, hotels, cafes and bars. Sandy Toes in the Corona Del Mar hotel is a good American-style one, but a weird bar experience. On Thursdays from 6pm, the 'Chicken Drop' is one of the world's quirkiest bingo nights. Players bet on which number the chicken will poo on. The winner gets a cash price. Ambergris Caye's real attractions are under its gin-clear waters. Most tourists go to the island's western side, to Secret Beach. It's the opposite of 'secret', with a hedonistic string of driftwood cocktail bars spilling sunbeds and stools even into the sea. You can sit and have a beer and seafood on partially submerged tables and chairs fixed to the sea bed. On the beach's southern end, Blue Bayou is the most attractive bar, with an imposing palapa deck with a bar and waiters attending patrons even inside the water. But you can't get to Ambergris Caye and not explore the Mesoamerican Reef at least once. The second-longest reef in the world after the Great Barrier Reef, it runs just a few kilometres off the eastern coast, and the best thing is that even those without a diving certification can enjoy a few great local marine sites by snorkelling. Mexico Rocks, declared a marine park in 2015, is only 15 minutes from San Pedro with a maximum depth of just 2.4m, and has plenty of stingrays and nurse sharks. Six kilometres south of San Pedro, the Hol Chan Marine Reserve has dramatic canyons and ample sea life. Shark Ray Alley is a perennial favourite snorkelling spot known for its shallow waters populated by big southern stingrays and nurse sharks that come very close to swimmers. The most offbeat part of the island is the north, where the Bacalar Chico National Park offers the chance to get on boat tours and view elusive wildlife. An easier, cheaper northern option is a tour of Eco Museum Belize ( Started in January 2025 by the local community in Ambergris Caye's Kate Subdivision, this outdoor museum in a coconut grove covers 2000 years of local island history. It has the artefact collection of the former San Pedro's House of Culture History Museum, which closed in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Informational panels and reconstructions illustrate the life of early Maya fishermen, their dwellings, cooking habits and religious symbols. The tours end with a coconut scraping demonstration. Cooking classes based on ancient Maya methods are available upon request. Even further north along the coast, only 5km from the Mexican border, Rocky Point is part of the Hol Chan Marine Park and has a reef within walking distance of the shore. It's less visited because it takes two hours to get there on a bumpy golf cart ride from San Pedro. You can swim from the shore to the beautiful tropical beach and it's perfect for catch-and-release fly fishing. 'Go slow' and 'No shirt, no shoes, no problem' are just some of the slogans that apply to the two small islands of Caye Caulker. The water between them is called the Split, and it is said that Hurricane Hattie carved it in 1961. However, it's more probable that the locals finished the job to make a navigable boat channel between the two chunks of the island. Right by the Split, the Lazy Lizard Bar and Grill is the most popular spot to lounge and enjoy the island's best swimming, including a trampoline platform and other water games for children. Things wind down by sunset, which comes early around 6pm at these Caribbean latitudes. Caye Caulker's southern island is the most developed, with hotels, a few backpacker hostels and dozens of bars and restaurants. Caye Caulker is considered 'the party island', but with a mellow vibe. Two of the most interesting (and free) things to do besides diving on Caulker (and note that as San Pedro has most of the closest reef, dive operators usually go there) are going to the Tarpon Feeding Dock at Calle La Posa. Dozens of Atlantic tarpons (a fish that can grow to 2.4m long) gather and swim about, ostensibly waiting for a free feed. Just south on the beach outside Iguana Reef Inn ( from 4pm to sunset, dozens of large stingrays arrive in the shallows and glide around, unfazed by humans, looking for food. I understand this is not the most ethical, as tourists feed the stingrays, but you'd hardly see such a spectacle elsewhere. Small boats ferry passengers across the Split for $3.90. North of the Split, the upper chunk of Caye Caulker still has a few swathes of nature relatively untouched by the tourist boom. But remember that this is no secluded paradise: several resorts have already popped up and reclaimed most of the once unspoilt beachfront. The place where most people go for a nice stretch of beach these days is French-owned Bliss Beach Lounge and Beach Bar, where one can kick back with a cocktail or have a nice gourmet meal. There are direct shuttles ($155) from the Split, or you can cross bringing a bicycle on the ferry to get there faster. Set on the sparse Lighthouse Reef, the Great Blue Hole symbolises Belize and is possibly the largest marine sinkhole on Earth. An aquamarine circle, it is roughly 300m wide and 125m deep. A scenic flight is probably the best way to see it. Maya Island Air ( and Tropic Air ( fly 11-seater planes from Belize City, Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker for about $390. Divers can also attempt a deep dive into the hole, with a quick descent to about 30 to 40m. Editor's note Ambergris Caye is named for ambergris — a waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Pirates came to the island in the 1600s and found valuable ambergris washing ashore. It was highly prized in perfume production before the advent of modern synthetics. It was the main ingredient in oriental scents and in high demand for the parfumeries of Paris.
West Australian
17-05-2025
- West Australian
The pick of three months in Central America
The isthmus connecting North and South America may not be too massive on a map. Still, the seven compact nations that make up Central America — eight if we were to include Mexico's southeastern-most Yucatan peninsula — have a lot going for them. Most travellers start north in Cancun or south in Panama City or Costa Rica's San Jose, but get lost from there. Do you know which Central American countries to pick for your next adventure? Read on. It's no secret that Costa Rica will dent your budget considerably. With a market oriented towards (rich) North American tourists, Costa Rica is feared by budget backpackers and has a tourism infrastructure that favours mid-range and high-end travellers — as it's so different from the rest, to me, it's not the best place to start a Central American jaunt. The Nicoya Peninsula on the southwestern Pacific Coast is where accommodation normally surpasses $150 a night, and everything is catered towards high-spending tourists. Areas like the Peninsula de Osa on the Pacific southeast can be more affordable — don't skip delightful Dos Brazos de Rio Tigre, a little Indigenous-run community tourism hub — and the north-eastern Caribbean Coast around Puerto Viejo is still unspoiled and better bang for your dollar, but in general, expect entries to national parks with compulsory guided tours to cost up to $150 per person. Like many travellers, be prepared budget-wise, stay shorter or skip entirely. Hear the word 'Honduras' and red flags raise everywhere — I was like you, too, and at first took an expensive tourist shuttle to bypass the country from Nicaragua to El Salvador. Stopping at a bus station and a fortunate later guidebook assignment covering the nation taught me one thing again: don't listen to stereotypes and the media. Since Xiomara Castro, Honduras' first female president, came to power in 2021, the country has seen a resurgence, especially in safety and infrastructure. It was among the friendliest and most budget-friendly Central American nations I visited. It's also extremely varied: from the Maya ruins at Copan to the Bay Islands of the Caribbean (pick Utila for mellower vibes and Roatan for a well-oiled mass tourist machine and family vacations), from the whitewater rafting and waterfalls at Rio Cangrejal to the Lenca highlands of La Esperanza and Gracias, not forgetting the stunning birdwatching hotspot that's Lake Yojoa and capital Tegucigalpa, an exciting town straddled amidst mountains. Honduras doesn't just surprise: it makes you fall in love. You may know about El Salvador because of the infamous President Nayib Bukele, who cleaned up the country of pretty much all criminals and gang-related violence since coming into power in 2019, transforming the world's most feared country into an abode of peace. Ethics and politics aside, under a tourism perspective, this is the best and safest time to visit El Salvador: Bukele's presidency has made the smallest of the Central American republics proud of itself again, with a resulting booster to the morale of the people, who can now be as welcoming as they ever were, yet without stressful risks. The country is stunning, too: the Volcano de Santa Ana is a short hike to a caldera filled with a shade-switching turquoise lake. Surfers will love the southern coasts from El Tunco to the west and La Union to the east. And those who love cobbled streets and colonial cities should not miss Suchitoto in the central highlands, and the towns of the Ruta de las Flores in the West — especially Juayua and Apaneca, with their waterfalls, extinct volcanoes and lagoons. Did I mention that the country is cheap as hell, too? You can cross it using local buses for less than $10, and the local pupusas — a fried corn tortilla stuffed with beans and cheese you'll remember until death — are 50c each. Being one of the largest nations, Guatemala also harbours a lot of different shades of natural beauty. The southwestern highlands are the most popular, studded with volcanoes like the ever-active Fuego, near the 16th-century colonial city and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Antigua, and the beautiful Lake Atitlan. The southern Pacific coast has surf-ready beaches like party central El Paredon, and not too far away on the Caribbean seaboard, the rivertown of Rio Dulce is the starting point for an amazing boat trip to Livingston, the coastal abode of the Garifuna community. North of there, the harsh plains of the Peten brings to the cobblestone-idyll that's the islet of Flores, also the gateway to Tikal, the mother of all Maya ruins. Due to its turbulent past and current regime, Nicaragua is often considered as the region's black sheep, but travel there is absolutely rewarding — although it can pose some troubles. Drones are forbidden in Nicaragua, so leave yours at home, or ship it to the next country you'll visit. If your profession is in any way related to media, state so and say you are not a reporter — they are not welcome. Other than that, Nicaragua has great party beaches like San Juan del Sur and an incredible double-volcanic island, Ometepe, whose Volcano Concepcion is a tough almost vertical climb and the tallest in the country. Granada has colonial charms and Leon adds layers of history, artistry and coolness to the mix. On the Caribbean side, the Little and Big Corn islands are Nicaragua's version of tropical paradise, and in-between, the highlands around Matagalpa and Somoto will reward trekkers and nature lovers. Belize is another small nation in the region, and one that's most often only linked with its northern cayes, Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye, speckles of white sand floating in all shades of blue paradise. To their east is the Blue Hole, an underwater marvel and one of the world's deepest marine sinkholes, a joy for worldly divers. But compact Belize — it takes about four hours drive to cross it in every direction — was also the abode of the Maya, and is rich in beautiful ruins such as Lamani, Altun Ha and Xunantunich near the town of San Ignacio, a quiet and charming rivertown, not forgetting the country's Creole Caribbean character that comes more prominent in the southern coastal regions of Punta Gorda and Placencia. Belize is among the most expensive of the Central American lot, but it still offers good value and plenty of budget options.
The Advertiser
14-05-2025
- The Advertiser
Old glamour, new tricks: why this NYC hotel reopening is turning heads
Once a residential hotel that hosted the likes of JFK and Bette Davis, this elegant art deco icon on the Upper East Side re-opened after an extensive renovation in October 2024. It's the North American debut for Corinthia Hotels, a brand that specialises in boutique luxury properties, and breathes new life into a landmark building that will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Nowhere does old-school glamour like the Upper East Side. This sophisticated neighbourhood is known for its upmarket boutiques, plush restaurants and grand townhouses. The Surrey provides a convenient bolthole in a largely residential enclave. From the bowler-hatted doormen to the art deco flourishes in the marble-tiled lobby, everything whispers understated luxury. Public spaces feature a curated art collection of tasteful works by New York-based creatives, while a muted pastel palette and comfortable lounges create a stylish residential feel. The property's top six floors are all private residences, so expect to see well-heeled locals and their pampered pets gliding through reception. Spread over eight floors, the hotel's 70 guest rooms and 30 suites continue the residential vibe with bespoke cabinetry, handcrafted Murano chandeliers and a soothing colour scheme of soft blues, greens and creams. Everything in my 38-square-metre grand deluxe room has a premium feel, from the silky Frette linens and the cloud-like bathrobe to the well-stocked minibar containing two types of premixed negroni. However, apart from a striking painting by NYC-based figurative artist Jansson Stegner, there's little to provoke or intrigue, which feels like a squandered opportunity in exuberant New York. Bathrooms are similarly agreeable - marble-swathed spaces with double sinks, rain showers and upscale toiletries by Antica Farmacista. Splash out on a suite for a freestanding tub and separate living area. The hotel has partnered with Casa Tua, a restaurant group and private members' club, to operate its lounge bar and restaurant, both seductive, dimly lit spaces with cosy fireplaces and bold portrait photography. Start in the lounge with the signature Casa Tua cocktail (a tasty negroni Aperol spritz fusion) then move into the restaurant for a crowd-pleasing roster of Mediterranean favourites, including pappardelle bolognese and scallop risotto. The venues are well-patronised by locals, providing a fascinating insight into the rarefied lives of those who can actually afford to live in this neighbourhood. During my winter visit, one restaurant patron eats her entire meal wearing a Russian fur hat. Shoppers will love the proximity to Madison Avenue's exclusive boutiques and luxury brands, including Christian Louboutin, Prada and Hermes, while art addicts are surrounded by cultural heavyweights, such as the Met, the Guggenheim and the Frick Collection. A complimentary town car can deliver you anywhere in a ten-block radius or the nearby 6 subway train will whisk you to Grand Central station in eight minutes. Central Park is just one block away. An energising massage at the onsite spa, which specialises in anti-aging treatments by Sisley Paris and has a steam room, sauna, salt relaxation room and high-tech gym with adjoining roof terrace. The writer was a guest of The Surrey. Once a residential hotel that hosted the likes of JFK and Bette Davis, this elegant art deco icon on the Upper East Side re-opened after an extensive renovation in October 2024. It's the North American debut for Corinthia Hotels, a brand that specialises in boutique luxury properties, and breathes new life into a landmark building that will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Nowhere does old-school glamour like the Upper East Side. This sophisticated neighbourhood is known for its upmarket boutiques, plush restaurants and grand townhouses. The Surrey provides a convenient bolthole in a largely residential enclave. From the bowler-hatted doormen to the art deco flourishes in the marble-tiled lobby, everything whispers understated luxury. Public spaces feature a curated art collection of tasteful works by New York-based creatives, while a muted pastel palette and comfortable lounges create a stylish residential feel. The property's top six floors are all private residences, so expect to see well-heeled locals and their pampered pets gliding through reception. Spread over eight floors, the hotel's 70 guest rooms and 30 suites continue the residential vibe with bespoke cabinetry, handcrafted Murano chandeliers and a soothing colour scheme of soft blues, greens and creams. Everything in my 38-square-metre grand deluxe room has a premium feel, from the silky Frette linens and the cloud-like bathrobe to the well-stocked minibar containing two types of premixed negroni. However, apart from a striking painting by NYC-based figurative artist Jansson Stegner, there's little to provoke or intrigue, which feels like a squandered opportunity in exuberant New York. Bathrooms are similarly agreeable - marble-swathed spaces with double sinks, rain showers and upscale toiletries by Antica Farmacista. Splash out on a suite for a freestanding tub and separate living area. The hotel has partnered with Casa Tua, a restaurant group and private members' club, to operate its lounge bar and restaurant, both seductive, dimly lit spaces with cosy fireplaces and bold portrait photography. Start in the lounge with the signature Casa Tua cocktail (a tasty negroni Aperol spritz fusion) then move into the restaurant for a crowd-pleasing roster of Mediterranean favourites, including pappardelle bolognese and scallop risotto. The venues are well-patronised by locals, providing a fascinating insight into the rarefied lives of those who can actually afford to live in this neighbourhood. During my winter visit, one restaurant patron eats her entire meal wearing a Russian fur hat. Shoppers will love the proximity to Madison Avenue's exclusive boutiques and luxury brands, including Christian Louboutin, Prada and Hermes, while art addicts are surrounded by cultural heavyweights, such as the Met, the Guggenheim and the Frick Collection. A complimentary town car can deliver you anywhere in a ten-block radius or the nearby 6 subway train will whisk you to Grand Central station in eight minutes. Central Park is just one block away. An energising massage at the onsite spa, which specialises in anti-aging treatments by Sisley Paris and has a steam room, sauna, salt relaxation room and high-tech gym with adjoining roof terrace. The writer was a guest of The Surrey. Once a residential hotel that hosted the likes of JFK and Bette Davis, this elegant art deco icon on the Upper East Side re-opened after an extensive renovation in October 2024. It's the North American debut for Corinthia Hotels, a brand that specialises in boutique luxury properties, and breathes new life into a landmark building that will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Nowhere does old-school glamour like the Upper East Side. This sophisticated neighbourhood is known for its upmarket boutiques, plush restaurants and grand townhouses. The Surrey provides a convenient bolthole in a largely residential enclave. From the bowler-hatted doormen to the art deco flourishes in the marble-tiled lobby, everything whispers understated luxury. Public spaces feature a curated art collection of tasteful works by New York-based creatives, while a muted pastel palette and comfortable lounges create a stylish residential feel. The property's top six floors are all private residences, so expect to see well-heeled locals and their pampered pets gliding through reception. Spread over eight floors, the hotel's 70 guest rooms and 30 suites continue the residential vibe with bespoke cabinetry, handcrafted Murano chandeliers and a soothing colour scheme of soft blues, greens and creams. Everything in my 38-square-metre grand deluxe room has a premium feel, from the silky Frette linens and the cloud-like bathrobe to the well-stocked minibar containing two types of premixed negroni. However, apart from a striking painting by NYC-based figurative artist Jansson Stegner, there's little to provoke or intrigue, which feels like a squandered opportunity in exuberant New York. Bathrooms are similarly agreeable - marble-swathed spaces with double sinks, rain showers and upscale toiletries by Antica Farmacista. Splash out on a suite for a freestanding tub and separate living area. The hotel has partnered with Casa Tua, a restaurant group and private members' club, to operate its lounge bar and restaurant, both seductive, dimly lit spaces with cosy fireplaces and bold portrait photography. Start in the lounge with the signature Casa Tua cocktail (a tasty negroni Aperol spritz fusion) then move into the restaurant for a crowd-pleasing roster of Mediterranean favourites, including pappardelle bolognese and scallop risotto. The venues are well-patronised by locals, providing a fascinating insight into the rarefied lives of those who can actually afford to live in this neighbourhood. During my winter visit, one restaurant patron eats her entire meal wearing a Russian fur hat. Shoppers will love the proximity to Madison Avenue's exclusive boutiques and luxury brands, including Christian Louboutin, Prada and Hermes, while art addicts are surrounded by cultural heavyweights, such as the Met, the Guggenheim and the Frick Collection. A complimentary town car can deliver you anywhere in a ten-block radius or the nearby 6 subway train will whisk you to Grand Central station in eight minutes. Central Park is just one block away. An energising massage at the onsite spa, which specialises in anti-aging treatments by Sisley Paris and has a steam room, sauna, salt relaxation room and high-tech gym with adjoining roof terrace. The writer was a guest of The Surrey. Once a residential hotel that hosted the likes of JFK and Bette Davis, this elegant art deco icon on the Upper East Side re-opened after an extensive renovation in October 2024. It's the North American debut for Corinthia Hotels, a brand that specialises in boutique luxury properties, and breathes new life into a landmark building that will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Nowhere does old-school glamour like the Upper East Side. This sophisticated neighbourhood is known for its upmarket boutiques, plush restaurants and grand townhouses. The Surrey provides a convenient bolthole in a largely residential enclave. From the bowler-hatted doormen to the art deco flourishes in the marble-tiled lobby, everything whispers understated luxury. Public spaces feature a curated art collection of tasteful works by New York-based creatives, while a muted pastel palette and comfortable lounges create a stylish residential feel. The property's top six floors are all private residences, so expect to see well-heeled locals and their pampered pets gliding through reception. Spread over eight floors, the hotel's 70 guest rooms and 30 suites continue the residential vibe with bespoke cabinetry, handcrafted Murano chandeliers and a soothing colour scheme of soft blues, greens and creams. Everything in my 38-square-metre grand deluxe room has a premium feel, from the silky Frette linens and the cloud-like bathrobe to the well-stocked minibar containing two types of premixed negroni. However, apart from a striking painting by NYC-based figurative artist Jansson Stegner, there's little to provoke or intrigue, which feels like a squandered opportunity in exuberant New York. Bathrooms are similarly agreeable - marble-swathed spaces with double sinks, rain showers and upscale toiletries by Antica Farmacista. Splash out on a suite for a freestanding tub and separate living area. The hotel has partnered with Casa Tua, a restaurant group and private members' club, to operate its lounge bar and restaurant, both seductive, dimly lit spaces with cosy fireplaces and bold portrait photography. Start in the lounge with the signature Casa Tua cocktail (a tasty negroni Aperol spritz fusion) then move into the restaurant for a crowd-pleasing roster of Mediterranean favourites, including pappardelle bolognese and scallop risotto. The venues are well-patronised by locals, providing a fascinating insight into the rarefied lives of those who can actually afford to live in this neighbourhood. During my winter visit, one restaurant patron eats her entire meal wearing a Russian fur hat. Shoppers will love the proximity to Madison Avenue's exclusive boutiques and luxury brands, including Christian Louboutin, Prada and Hermes, while art addicts are surrounded by cultural heavyweights, such as the Met, the Guggenheim and the Frick Collection. A complimentary town car can deliver you anywhere in a ten-block radius or the nearby 6 subway train will whisk you to Grand Central station in eight minutes. Central Park is just one block away. An energising massage at the onsite spa, which specialises in anti-aging treatments by Sisley Paris and has a steam room, sauna, salt relaxation room and high-tech gym with adjoining roof terrace. The writer was a guest of The Surrey.
