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Daring Openworked Designs Shine At Watches And Wonders 2025

Daring Openworked Designs Shine At Watches And Wonders 2025

Forbes01-07-2025
Three Vacheron Constantin 'Traditionnelle Openface' watches for its 270-year anniversary Vacheron Constantin
At first glance, the terms 'skeletonized' and 'openworked' may seem interchangeable in watchmaking—but they reflect subtly different approaches to the art and craft of revealing a movement. Both techniques involve cutting away portions of the dial and movement to expose the mechanics within. Yet, while openworked watches offer glimpses through carefully carved-out sections, skeletonized timepieces go further—removing as much material as possible to create an intricate, transparent framework.
This year at Watches and Wonders there were several examples of openworked watches on display providing visually compelling and mechanically daring designs. Here are a few standout examples.
The prestigious Swiss watch brand celebrating its 270th anniversary unveiled three openworked watches in distinctive patterns based on the outline of the brand's Maltese cross logo. All three have 950 platinum cases, retrograde displays and each is released in a 370-piece limited edition.
The cases feature the Traditionelle signatures such as stepped lugs, a fluted caseback and a slender bezel. Each dial has a railway-type minutes track, faceted Dauphine-style hands and the collection's applied gold baton hour-markers. Of course, all the timepieces and their complications are powered by in-house movements.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface timepiece Vacheron Constantin
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface with the openwork on the lower half of the dial features the new caliber 2460 QPR31/270 manual-wound movement equipped with two complications: The first is a perpetual calendar displaying the days, months and leap-year cycle requiring no correction until 2100. The moon phases at 6 o'clock tracks the moon's actual cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. The realistically designed lunar surface display will need just one correction every 122 years. The second complication is a retrograde date display in the upper part of the dial.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface timepiece Vacheron Constantin
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface watch is powered by the caliber 2162 R31/270, a 242-component manufacture movement with a 72-hour power reserve. It combines a tourbillon at 6 o'clock with a retrograde date whose workings can be seen through the upper part of the openworked dial.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface timepiece Vacheron Constantin
The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is powered by the caliber 2460 QCL/270, with triple calendar indications – day of the week, date and month – and a precision moon-phase display that needs adjustment only once in 122 years. The openworked dial reveals part of the 312-component automatic movement. The date is displayed around the periphery of the dial using a blued hand, while the day and month are marked on sapphire discs contrasted with the blue background of the apertures.
The Trilobe Une Folle Journée in blue Trilobe Trilobe Une Folle Journée
This new watch sticks to the French watchmaker's vision of using three rotating rings to display the hours and seconds, but it is the first version of this model that provides an opening to the unique X-Centric caliber, which powers this eccentric display of time. The movement consists of 196 components including 33 rubies and has a 48-hour power reserve. The minute, hour and second rings are made of titanium coated with DLC in three colors: green, blue and black. The 40.5mm titanium case is fitted with a dome-shaped sapphire crystal that allows the three rings to fit into the case.
The Hermès Arceau Le temps suspend watch with sunburst blue dial Hermès Hermès Arceau Le temps suspend
A reinterpretation of the 2011 model, Arceau Le temps suspendu features a new aesthetic. Its slender 42 mm case frames an openworked dial reveals the exclusive 'Time suspended' module driven by a Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement visible through the transparent caseback.
The white or rose gold cases are paired with three colors – sunburst blue, brun désert, rouge sellier – reaffirming the timeless nature of the line with its characteristic asymmetrical lugs crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops.
The Cyrus Genève Dominion timepiece in titanium Cyrus Genève Cyrus Dominion
The Cyrus Genève 'Dominion' is a 42mm GMT watch collection with retrograde dual time function. It is available in a 5N rose gold case limited to 25 pieces and in a titanium case limited to 28 pieces.
The openworked details are impressive. For example, the top level of the multi-layered dial display is crafted in the shape of a palm tree in 5N rose gold, emphasizing 'the motion of the movement's springs, wheels and gears,' the brand said. Further details include a galvanic treatment, matt rays with snailed-finish and microbeaded profiles.
The hour and minute hands are openworked as well. In addition, the sapphire caseback reveals an openworked rotor with sunray finish. It is engraved with the motto 'The Conquest of Innovation' and Cyrus logo.
The watch is driven by the in-house caliber CYR708 automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve.
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