The humble crumpet is back in fashion

Telegraph

01-03-2025

A wave of nostalgia has hit the restaurant world. Whether French comfort food, nursery desserts or posh takes on the Viennetta, chefs are turning to old-school and childhood favourites.
Nowhere is this more evident than the humble crumpet. At Lyle's, a Michelin-starred restaurant in east London, they are topped with oxtail, broccoli leaves and green sauce. At Glasgow's The Clarence, it's tandoori crab. In Cumbria, Rogan & Co serves a lamb broth and ramson version, with head chef Tom Reeves saying the crumpet, cooked in lamb fat, is the perfect base for soaking up flavours.
Both Jamie Oliver and Paul Ainsworth featured crumpets in current cookbooks, while on a recent episode of the BBC's Great British Menu, one of the competing chefs served smoked boar fat crumpets.
At Waitrose, sales are up 25 per cent on this time last year, while at Ocado they've jumped by 20 per cent over the past month, potentially down to their prominence on TikTok and Instagram, with videos showcasing their versatility – think crumpet pizzas or stuffed crumpets. Searches for 'sourdough crumpets' and 'gluten-free crumpets' at Ocado are also up.
This most thoroughly British of griddle cakes – what goes better with tea? – is truly back. According to Ben Mervis, author of The British Cookbook, the earliest recipe comes from a 1769 book by Elizabeth Raffald called The Experienced English Housekeeper, though similar griddled breads 'seem to be common to ancient Celtic cultures'.
Yet the new incarnation to be found on restaurant menus is a far cry from the Warburtons of yore, where butter, Marmite or honey would suffice as a post-school snack. At Rake, a new London restaurant, light, airy crumpets are topped with ray wing tenders and golden syrup. They are even making waves in Australia, where Melbourne's Reed House serves sourdough crumpets with a Guinness and cheddar sauce inspired by the famous St John rarebit.
It's not the first time restaurant crumpets have caused a stir. Ottolenghi's outposts, including Rovi in Fitzrovia, have long served lobster crumpets but now the toppings are generally less rarefied, often tapping into a love of classic British ingredients. New north-west London spot Don't Tell Dad has a 'very popular' oxtail crumpet, says head chef Luke Frankie. 'They taste good but they're also fun and nostalgic. Most people have eaten crumpets, but probably not with oxtail.'
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Familiarity and nostalgia are two key reasons chefs believe they have become so widespread. Rob Boer has served crumpets in various iterations at The Mutton at Hazeley Heath in Hampshire since the restaurant opened more than two years ago. They have been 'probably one of the most consistent selling items on the menu', and toppings, including crab and chilli and slow-braised mutton shoulder, have 'flown out'.
It helps that they're relatively easy to make, a simple starter or snack that can be zhuzhed up with creative toppings – a high-low combination diners appear to love. The yeasted batter is whisked and left for an hour or so to bubble up, then fried in crumpet rings for the traditional shape. While straightforward, chefs say if they're under or over-proved, they can become flat and stodgy or lack the distinctive holes.
They're even gaining traction at Claridge's, where they have become one of the most popular snacks since the restaurant reopened in 2023, topped with Montgomery cheddar and – in a nod to the luxe surroundings – fine slices of truffle. 'It's a wonderful way to start a meal, especially with a glass of champagne,' says culinary director Simon Attridge.
One of the reasons for their rise is sheer versatility – almost anything buttery or fatty works on a crumpet, which acts just like a flavour sponge. Attridge recommends cheese and Marmite, hot smoked salmon and horseradish, or slow-cooked lamb shoulder with mint yogurt. For Gordon Ker, founder of steakhouse chain Blacklock, where they've been served with cull yaw (a type of mutton) since 2020, they're 'especially popular because they combine traditional tastes with creative twists. Crumpets conjure up classic combinations like butter and jam, maybe Marmite if you're that way inclined, while cull yaw offers something unexpected. Comforting yet surprising, it's a great way to kick off your meal.'
The next step is satisfying those with a sweet tooth. After all, for many, they're more frequently a sugary treat. 'My next mission is to work them into a dessert,' says Boer. Frankie agrees, adding they'd make a 'great ice cream sandwich'.