The coolest part of this Asian city is actually underneath it
We stroll past whimsical urban art – rabbits racing snails, ducks marching in a line – all playfully tucked amid the layered plantings of trees and shrubs. Weekend markets line the path ahead, the aroma of coffee and fried pancakes drawing us along like the beckoning fingers of a cartoon wisp.
The park's transformation started in 2017, but the neighbourhood's roots go back to the late 1800s when Taipei was under Qing dynasty rule. Then came the era of Japanese rule (1895-1945), a legacy still seen in the tidy street grid and abundance of ramen shops.
We detour to Chifeng Street, known as 'Iron Street', where former scrap metal shops have been transformed into a creative hub of unique and design-driven stores. A time-worn belt from EWF Vintage, a pot of tea at Illumination Books and a playful snap inside the TiMELAB photo booth are the joys of exploring a neighbourhood.
While many of the stores have had a modern makeover, it's the weathered bones of the century-old shop buildings that anchor the present to the past. Strolling deeper, the clang of metal from the remaining auto repair shops adds a raw, industrial rhythm to the street vibe.
We see more of Zhongshan's creative soul inside the former US embassy, a Colonial-style mansion now home to the SPOT Taipei Film House. Though there's no time for an arthouse flick, we relax in the cafe like seasoned film buffs.
From here it's a short walk to the Museum of Contemporary Art, where an impressive collection of works is housed inside a former 1920s elementary school.
We finish on a lane at the edge of Linear Park, where a queue leads us to Mian Xian Ding, a Japanese-style shop stand serving traditional mian xian. For a handful of crumpled notes we receive a barstool at the crowded counter and a bowl each of gluey noodle soup. How much it cost or what was in it (oysters? intestines?) I'll never know, but every mouthful brings me closer to the heart of the neighbourhood, and the people who call it home.
THE DETAILS
Viking's 15-day Far Eastern Horizons cruise from Hong Kong to Tokyo (or the reverse) costs from $10,795 a person, based on double occupancy, flights not included. All meals, beer, wine and soft drinks with onboard lunch and dinner, one shore excursion in every port of call, Wi-Fi, gratuities and speciality dining are all included. See viking.com
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The writer was a guest of Viking Cruises.
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