A taste of Navroz: An insider's look at a chef's table on Parsi New Year

Hindustan Times

2 days ago

Coinciding with India's Independence Day today, the Zoroastrian community in the country celebrates their new year, aka Navroz or Nowruz. In India, they follow the Shahenshahi calendar, which does not account for leap years, so their New Year usually falls in August, unlike in Iran, where it's in March during the spring equinox. Starting their day with a visit to the Fire Temple or Agiary (or Atash Behram) for worship and to give thanks, Parsis spend the day surrounded by family, friends and food. On Navroz, the Parsis believe in incorporating different food items in their meals to signify prosperity and good luck(instagram/gallopsmumbai )
Food plays a major role in the festivities as it is a thread that connects them to their ancestors. Similar to the Chinese, the Parsis also believe in incorporating different items in their meals to signify prosperity and good luck. Fish is one such item, explains Chef Kaizad Patel, the proprietor of Mumbai-based Kaizad Patel Caterers. 'Many people will eat Mawa Ni Boi, which is a sweet made of mawa and shaped like a fish, which signifies abundance and good fortune.'
Saas Ni Macchi is another fish preparation that is relished on this day. 'The Parsi food in India is very different from that eaten in Persia. Our food is similar to Gujarati cuisine with a little bit of British influence, as you can see with the Saas Ni Macchi," explains Chef Kaizad, adding, "It is basically fish simmered in a sauce made from rice flour, eggs, and stock, like a velouté (a white sauce made from a roux of butter and flour with chicken, veal, or pork stock).'
The Patra ni macchi is also a popular item eaten on Navroz and other special occasions. The fish (or paneer for the vegetarians) is smeared in a green chutney made with coriander and mint, along with freshly grated coconut, turmeric powder, jeera, garlic, sugar and green chilli. A key component in this chutney is the sugar cane vinegar, or Kolah's vinegar, which is often used in Parsi cuisine to achieve the perfect balance of "Tikhu-Khatu-Mithu" (spicy, sour, and sweet) flavours. The fish is then wrapped in tender banana leaves and steamed to perfection.
For Chef Yajush Malik, who runs Gallops Restaurant in Mumbai, kicks off his day on a sweet note with a 'breakfast of sev and sweet curd' that signifies wealth and joy. 'The sev is a very traditional one with it being browned vermicelli that is cooked with sugar and topped with ghee and fried dry fruits,' he says. Ravo is another classic dessert enjoyed on this day. Similar to kheer, ravo is made by cooking semolina in milk and adding a lot of dry fruits, like almonds, pistachios, and raisins, which stand for richness, longevity, and prosperity.
Ravo is a semolina pudding that is similar to kheer (instagram)
Other desserts eaten on this day include Suterfeni, Malai and Mawa Khaja, gigantic jalebis, Lagan nu Custard, Nankhatai and Batasa biscuits.
A proud Parsi based in Delhi, Chef Anahita Dhondy has been showcasing her heritage on social media. Rice finds a proud place on the table, and Chef Anahita loves the Shehenshahi Pulao, which 'is very traditional and has its roots in Persia with our familiar Indian flavours as well. We always have some kind of rice, meat and dry fruit dish to celebrate Navroz, and this is one example.'
While mutton and eeda (egg) dishes are a well-known part of the traditional Parsi Bhonu, she likes to spotlight dishes that aren't as well-known. 'For Navroz, there isn't a set menu for the day, and families make food based on their personal choice. But another, not-so-popular dish made on this day is Kid Ghosht. It can be made with mutton or chicken, and is cooked in a beautiful white creamy gravy that has a base of cashew nuts.'
A popular food eaten on Navroz is Sali Boti (Instagram/gallopsmumbai)
Many of the dishes at the bhonu is centred on the meat and the Sali Boti is one of the showstoppers.'On New Year's Day, we take our time with lunch, which is a family affair, full for laughter and food, with someone always urging you to 'eat more',' shares Chef Viraf Patel, who is at the helm of Across. 'Sali are the crispy potato matchsticks sprinkled over the rich, slow-cooked, tangy mutton gravy that's served with a pot of fragrant pulao that's topped with fried onions.'
Chicken Farcha makes for a tasty nibble on Navroz(instagram/gallopsmumbai)
One of the most popular dishes, chicken farcha, is a must on this day, and Chef Kaizad says, 'Chicken Farcha is nothing but fried chicken, and we have taken some inspiration from how the Muslim community fries the meat. The chicken pieces are double-fried with a coating of egg. It is enjoyed at almost all Parsi celebrations, big or small.'
Last but not the least, the Bhonu will always include the classic dhan (rice) Mori dal (a very simple yellow dal with a garlic and ghee tempering) and patio (prawns or fish, cooked with eggplant onion and tomato which is sweet spicy and sour, sort of like a masala/pickle to go with the dal rice). It embodies the hallmarks of Parsi cuisine, which are Tikhu-Khatu-Mithu. Dhan dal patio is always eaten on good/celebratory occasions,' explains Chef Yajush.