A practical guide to visiting Croatia's islands, from ferry bookings to exploring on foot
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Island-hopping is a charming way to discover Croatia, allowing you to enjoy shots of espresso and shimmering sea views on deck as you sail from coast to coast. National ferry operator Jadrolinija and private competitors link most inhabited islands in the country. The majority of inter-island trips run during the daytime and vary in length from just 20 minutes to a few hours, so no cabin is required for bookings. To get the most from an island-hopping trip, however, some pre-planning is required. How easy is it?
National company Jadrolinija operates car-ferries and passenger-only catamarans throughout the islands, which are supplemented by vessels run by private operators such as Kapetan Luka. Key short crossings depart every hour, if not more often. Longer routes tend to run only once or twice a day, often at hours tailored to island commuters. Jadrolinija operates year-round, although at lower frequencies over winter, while private services typically run from April to October. jadrolinija.hr krilo.hr Should I hire a car?
You'll be glad of your own wheels in the quieter Kvarner Gulf but, in summer, a car can limit your options in south Dalmatia. Costs can spiral with a vehicle — on ferries, you pay for the car plus each passenger — and reservations are essential in July and August. You'll also need to backtrack at least once — from Vis back to Split to continue to Hvar, for example — which means more spending, plus precious days lost to transport. Foot passengers not only travel more cheaply, they're guaranteed passage on car ferries and can also access passenger-only catamarans running useful routes between islands — Kapetan Luka is excellent in south Dalmatia (reservations are advisable in peak season). Where ports are isolated, there tends to be a local bus timed to meet the car ferry. Can I still explore larger islands without a car?
Absolutely, although allow a couple of days longer at each destination for logistics. Local bus services shuttle around islands — plan on around three services a day — but taxis are also available. In summer, boat taxi services go from major hubs like Hvar Town and Vis Town to popular beaches. On all islands, private tourism agencies are the traveller's friend, offering bike and scooter hire plus day trips to less accessible corners of the islands. Do I need to book accommodation?
While hotels are available across Croatia's islands, accommodation is limited on smaller ones — Šolta and Mljet have just one each, Vis only three. Book ahead to guarantee a bed or, for more spontaneous travel, consider a private room offered by a local family. Advertised in windows and on plaques as sobe, meaning rooms, or booked through local tourism agencies — the easier option — these are plentiful at most destinations. What should I pack?
Less is better for island-hopping, especially on foot. The weather is classically Mediterranean and Croatia is informal, so smart dress isn't required even at top-end restaurants. Be aware that most beaches are fine shingle rather than sand, so you may prefer swimming shoes, which will also protect you from sea urchins, common on rocks. Getting there & around
British Airways, EasyJet, Jet2, Ryanair and Wizz Air fly to Split and Dubrovnik from airports throughout the UK. In the Kvarner Gulf, Ryanair flies to Rijeka from Stansted. Alternatively, EasyJet and Jet2 fly to Pula; you can cross quickly to Cres island from Brestova, an hour's drive north.
Average flight time: 3h.
Jadrolinija is the nationwide ferry operator, providing the majority of roll-on, roll-off car ferries, plus some fast passenger-only catamarans, often scheduled for commuters. Private operators offer tourist-friendly routes in Dalmatia; the most useful for these itineraries are Kapetan Luka and TP Line.
When to go Spring and autumn, especially, are the perfect seasons to visit, with average temperatures around 23C in both May and October. The sea is at its warmest in September, hovering between 22 and 24C. Temperatures in July and August are around 30C, but a bigger issue is visitor numbers; reservations are essential for accommodation and ferries.
More info
Lonely Planet Croatia, £14.99
croatia.hr
How to do it:
Utracks' eight-day Kvarner Bay Bike and Boat Deluxe itinerary offers accommodation and travel aboard a 17-cabin yacht, plus optional guided e-bike cycling in Cres, Lošinj, Dugi Otok, Zadar, Pag and Rab. From £1,990 per person, B&B, including five lunches and two dinners. Flights are excluded. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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