Off the Beaten Track: Rock Climbing in Croatia's Paklenica National Park

Yahoo

2 days ago

The most famous climbing site in Croatia, the gorges and cliffs of Paklenica National Park offer great climbing variety. It lies outside Starigrad near Zadar, and has routes for everyone from absolute beginners to experts.
The tombs (tumuli) of Gomila and Paklaric testify that the town dates back to prehistoric times. There was once a Roman settlement here called Argyruntum, and archaeologists found a necropolis from the 1st or 2nd century that contained bronze tools, jewelry, glassware, and ceramics. You can view their finds in the Archaeological Museum in Zadar. The pre-Romanesque church of St. Peter dates back to the 10th century.
Paklenica became a National Park in 1949. In 1978, UNESCO proclaimed the entire Velebit region a biogenetic reserve.
Inside the park, each of the two main gorges has a name that underlines the difference between them: Velika (Great) Paklenica and Mala (Small) Paklenica.
Velika Paklenica consists of two valleys. The longitudinal valley runs parallel to the Southern Velebit range, while the other is carved between the peaks of Debeli Kuk and Anica Kuk. Anica Kuk is the only place in the park where climbing is allowed.
Because of its relative inaccessibility, the upper part of Velika Paklenica has developed a lush forest. In the transverse valleys, influenced by the Adriatic Sea, shrubs and Mediterranean maquis cover the slopes.
The climatic and topographical differences that characterize this region, which extends from the peaks of Velebit (1,700m) to the sea, are the reason the flora and fauna are so interesting. Botanists have recorded over 500 plant species. The fauna is also rich: over 500 species of insects, several reptile species, and as many as 200 different types of birds.
In Paklenica, the rock is mostly karst limestone. It is very compact, although sharp in places. There are numerous routes of all difficulty levels and lengths, from single pitches on cliffs to multi-pitch routes to a height of 350m.
The style also varies, from technical slabs to large overhangs. The large walls host numerous well-bolted routes that climb on ridges or easy slabs. But there is no shortage of long sport routes that tackle much more sustained terrain with difficulties up to 8a. In addition, there are a handful of beautiful trad routes, protected only with nuts and Friends. For those who want to try something different, there are some interesting artificial routes.
The first climbers visited Paklenica in the late 1930s, but the first route was Brahm in 1940. Between 1957 and 1969, Croatian climbers largely had the gorge to themselves and opened many new routes. Today, many of these are considered true classics, such as Mosoraški (1957), Velebitaški (1961), and Klin (1966).
Later, it was mainly Slovenian climbers who opened further new routes. Among them was the legendary Franc Knez, who opened around 40 routes. Many of Knez's routes remain among the most difficult in Paklenica today.
During the 1980s, Italian Mauro Corona established the first short sport routes in Klanci, the narrowest part of the canyon. His first route was Stimula, 7a. Soon after, Maurizio Zanolla made the first free ascent of what is still the hardest route in Paklenica: Il Marattoneta (8b+). Adam Ondra onsighted it in 2020 and also made a new variant, named Genius Loci (9a).
During the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, the park was closed for a few years. When it reopened in 1995, Austrians Ingo Schalk and Gerhard Grabner immediately opened a great new route, Waterworld (7b+).
Currently, the most active climbers are Croatians Boris Cujic and Ivica Matkovic, who are responsible for a whole series of new routes. They have also fixed and rebolted numerous old routes, replacing countless rusty bolts.
While there is little chance of discovering something new on the big walls of the gorge, there is still potential for hard sport routes in sectors like Rupe, or even in more distant crags, just outside the Paklenica canyon.
Paklenica is a national park, so there are strict regulations for environmental protection. There are also areas where authorities prohibit climbing, such as Mala Paklenica, and on Debeli Kuk in the Velika Paklenica gorge from the lower to the upper parking lot. Climbing is also prohibited from Manita Pec to the upper part of Velika Parklenica. These prohibitions protect bird habitat and help to avoid accidents from rockfall.
There is a fee to enter the park, but there are three and five-day ticket options for climbers that are valid for 30 days. Climbing officials supervise the climbing in Paklenica. They ensure the safety of the routes and are in charge of maintenance. Equipping new routes and installing new equipment on old routes requires permission from the Paklenica National Park management.
The best time of year is from April to the end of October. In winter, strong winds are a problem. However, the Crljenica section has recently been developed, and with its sunny position, it is suitable for climbing even in winter. During the spring, expect frequent showers, though the karst dries quickly. In summer, it can be hot, but you can always find a place in the shade, such as on Anica Kuk, throughout the morning.
In Stari Grad, there are several shops, open even on holidays, a gas station, and everything you need for a pleasant stay. If you want to camp, many campsites offer budget accommodation, such as NP Paklenica, Marko, Vesna, Peko, and Popo.
Affordable rooms are available at Ana Marasovic, Pansion Andelko, Hotel Rajna, and Restaurant Paklenica.
Although climbing is prohibited, we highly recommend a trip to the nearby Mala Paklenica gorge. This valley is smaller and rarely visited, so the nature tends to be more primeval and wild. In Velika Paklenica, visiting the Manita Pec cave is another must.