An insider's guide to the Amalfi Coast's undiscovered walking trails

Telegraph

7 days ago

Somewhere in between the vineyards and the jagged cliffs tumbling into the sapphire Tyrrhenian waves, is a path that remains frozen in time. Carved above one of the most picturesque coastlines in the world, the Path of the Gods is the last bastion of diluted tourism on the Costa D'Amalfi.
Celebrated in both literature and myth, this undiscovered hiking gem doesn't carry its name for nothing. Its origins trace back to the days of Ulysses: when the divine descended from Olympus, taking to these coastal peaks and ravines to rescue him from the mystical gulf of the Siren Islands off the peninsula.
Away from the tour buses and traffic lies a set of undiscovered routes diverging in distance and difficulty, to capture the Costiera's views at their most magnificent. The main path goes Westward from Bomerano to Nocelle, a high-set neighbourhood of Positano, through unbeatable views of the peninsula's lemon groves and iconic beaches.
Route one: easy
Although not appropriate for those afraid of heights due to its vertiginous vantage point, the main trail is suitable for hikers of all levels, including children. The climb starts in Bomerano, the highest point in the rustic red-roofed town of Agerola. The trail continues across the Lattari Mountains for 5.7 miles and takes around four hours.
Route two: intermediate
The alternative path starts in Praiano, Positano's much quieter neighbour. The artful town – known for its charming mosaics decorating each alley and the laundry which hangs from its windows, dancing in the Mediterranean breeze – is a lesser-discovered base from which to explore the Sorrentine peninsula.
The catch is getting up the mountain to arrive on the trail: from Praiano, there's a winding staircase leading past the forbearing Convent of St Domenico, 580 meters up to join the Path of The Gods. This trail is slightly shorter, with a 4.4 mile run and taking just under four hours.
Route three: expert
Following the same part of the coastline is a 'high' version of the trail, offering a higher-altitude option for thrill seekers. This third and final trail option starts in Bomerano and ends in Santa Maria del Castello, just above Positano. This hike passes through three peaks: Capo Muro, Monte Calabrice, and Monte Tre Calli, all above 1,000 meters in altitude. The tougher elevation is rewarded with unparalleled views and lower chances of encountering hiking companions.
If you feel up to the challenge, loop back around the trail for a whole day of hiking. If going one way, try walking the path in the direction of Positano: with its slightly downward inclination, the road faces the best of the peninsula's views, with Capri and its islets in eyeshot alongside the remarkable Costiera Amalfitana.
Hikers taking a single way along the path can return to their starting point by the local SITA buses, which stop regularly along the iconic coastal road all the way to Amalfi. During the warmer months, regular ferries from Positano and Amalfi offer a scenic ride to Naples or Salerno, the Costiera's main airport options. The Path itself is accessible throughout the year, although spring and autumn promise great weather and minimal crowds.
Why do it?
The Sentiero degli Dei, as it is written on arrows signposting the beginning of the hike, is an authentic postcard of the traditional Sorrentine lifestyle. Along the path are farmers still working the narrow terraces, family owned vineyards, and a slower pace of life. Beyond the echo of clanging goat bells in the hills beyond, visitors remain unperturbed by the sounds of rumbling boat engines and wailing infants that are down away from earshot.
The occasional appearance of abandoned stone-built cottages serve as a refuge from the Sorrentine sun, but also remind visitors of the harsh realities of rural labourers. In the ages before the peninsula's beauty was discovered by travellers, those working in agriculture or the paper industry for which the region was most notorious, would trudge along these heightened paths in a daily plight against elevation.
Of course, hiking has never played much of a role in the pursuit of La Dolce Vita, meaning you'll rarely encounter Italians on these paths – and thanks to the rustic facilities, you're unlikely to meet many tourists either. There are a few water fountains along the way to refill water bottles, and scattered refuges and cafes for shaded breaks.
Despite the path's recent refurbishment, with barriers on key points and white and red arrows marking the trail, its jagged turns and wild dusty paths maintain an untouched quality.
The reward
The road to Nocelle ends in a plaza where a small lemonade stand affords a true Amalfi coast welcome. Nocelle is a tiny rustic village with green villas and terraces covered in luscious Bougainville – but its beauty lies in its captivating views. The final stop of the hike offers a stunning opening onto the bay ahead, as the distant mirage of Positano's colourful terraces emerge into the golden Campanian sunlight.
This is the place to stop for a photograph, before descending the seemingly infinite staircase back down to the road. Many walk the remaining 500 meters to Positano, but take a tip from the local slow-living residents and, instead, follow the last 300 steps down from the road and have a swim in the calm waters of Arienzo beach.
Practical tips
It is essential to bring a full water bottle, sunblock, light hiking clothes, a sun hat, and a camera to capture the extraordinary views. The picnic tables spread throughout the path at key scenic points invite hikers to indulge in a picturesque pause above the turquoise waters, so bring a packed lunch.
Packing a sandwich is less tedious when any salumeria, a local delicatessen, will serve fresh bread, the local dairy delight of caciocavallo, or her Neapolitan majesty, the mozzarella di Bufala – the food of the Gods herself.
How to do it
EasyJet flies from London Gatwick to Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport from £57 return, and to Naples from £40 return. British Airways has recently launched a new route to Salerno, with flights from £66 one way. From Salerno, take the local SITA buses (for Positano, Bomerano and Praiano), or ferries (for Amalfi or Positano) with their corresponding shuttles.
The Grand Hotel Tritone in Praiano (0039 0898 74333) has doubles from £589 per night, including breakfast; the more affordable Hostaria Albergo Dipinto Bacco Furore on the seafront of Agerola (0039 0898 30360) has doubles from £250 per night, also including breakfast.