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Globe and Mail
3 hours ago
- Globe and Mail
Explore a historic corner of England from the newly refurbished Alfriston hotel
Once a hub for smugglers and an intersection for pilgrims bound for Chichester Cathedral, and then a destination for the free-thinking, postwar Bloomsbury Group of artists, writers and philosophers, the medieval village of Alfriston has entered a new era. The South Downs village is a few miles inland of England's south coast, an hour's drive from London and 35 minutes from Brighton. Dating back to Saxon times, quaint and historic Alfriston (pronounced all-friston) brims with centuries-old flint and timber-framed buildings housing shops, restaurants and art galleries lining a crooked main street. One block behind sits the 14th century St. Andrew's Church, overlooking the windy Cuckmere River and large green space, which has appealed to visitors. Want to walk across a country? Try the English Coast to Coast trail Reborn with the creation of the South Downs Way trail in 2010, Alfriston has been enjoying a resurgence in popularity among hikers and nature lovers. At the same time, the chalky, rolling hills of the South Downs have built a reputation for producing sparkling wine of such high quality that many sommeliers compare it to the Champagne region in France. At the edge of all this a new hotel sits proudly – the Alfriston – which reopened this spring after a year-long refurbishment under new owners. Husband-and-wife team Hector and Samantha Ross specialize in turning historic buildings into destination hotels, with three other properties dotted around England. The Ross's team spent a year rebuilding the property, which dates back to 1554, installing a spa with sauna, steam room and three treatment rooms and adding seven extra bedrooms – bringing the overall tally up to 38. They knocked down walls, flooding previously gloomy rooms with light and, with a nod to the artistic creativity of Bloomsbury Group, painted murals around a new orangery (which doubles as a breakfast room) and a wooden dresser in the reception area. Expect warm, playful colours with upcycled antiques, richly textured fabrics and boldly printed wallpapers to create individually styled bedrooms that feel like an English country home. There's a purple flowering wisteria wound around the front door, a flagstone floor and timber-beamed bar plus a 70-seat brasserie serving locally sourced fish, meat and drinks – including sparkling wine from Rathfinny and hoppy ales from the nearby Long Man Brewery. Keep an eye on the cabinets in every corridor – they are stocked with complimentary candy and chips. Despite the modern design, the bedrooms lack hooks, hangers and much hanging space at all – not ideal for stays of longer than a night or two. The newly paved heated outdoor pool is both eye-catching and divine but more attention could have been paid to sound insulation in the newer section of the hotel – no one likes to be kept awake by noise. There is almost too much to do. Begin with browsing the village – ensuring you don't miss the stone market cross, which served as the key location for traders in medieval times and allegedly the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling's poem A Smuggler's Song. Much Ado Books is the perfect place to while away an hour (with homemade lavender shortbread for those who purchase a book) and stop for lunch at the Star, a pub-cum-luxury hotel that was originally built by monks and thought to date back to 1345. This pocket of Sussex abounds in historical and cultural properties, beginning with the Clergy House, an early 15th century building sitting beside the church and the very first property purchased (for £10) by the National Trust, in 1896. Explore the homes of the Bloomsbury Group in nearby Charleston and Rodmell or treat yourself to a tour of the house and gardens of Firle Place where, in summer, you could catch a game of cricket, too. The world-famous Glyndebourne opera house, with its annual festival, is just a 15-minute drive away. Don't miss the chance for a stroll. As the last stop on the South Downs Way (a week-long hike from Winchester to Eastbourne), Alfriston is awash with magnificent walks along the Cuckmere River, through tiny villages with such delightful names as Litlington and Lillington, and along the chalky cliffs of the Seven Sisters. The hotel can organize paddleboarding and canoe trips from Cuckmere Haven, a beach made famous in the Oscar-nominated film Atonement and just a ten-minute drive away. Finally, taste some of the world's finest sparkling wines on the neighbouring, family-owned Rathfinny Estate, sprawling across the south-facing slopes of the South Downs National Park, land that teems with wildlife from corn buntings and skylarks to the Adonis blue butterfly and large brown hares. The Alfriston is a great base to explore this historic corner of Sussex. Order afternoon tea with delicate sandwiches, crumbling scones and thick, oozing cream to enjoy on the patio overlooking the croquet lawn for a hit of quintessential England. The hotel also makes it easy if you arrive in classic British weather: A selection of Muck Boot wellies is free for guests to borrow for rainy walks. The writer was a guest of hotel. It did not preview or approve the copy prior to publication.
Yahoo
10 hours ago
- Yahoo
Couple confront a suspect on video after they spot him near a burning tree in Runyon Canyon
Scott Anthony Mitchell and Davanh DiMarco of Hollywood were on their regular Sunday hike at Runyon Canyon when they saw a Palm tree on fire and a man emerging from the bushes nearby. Six months after they evacuated their home during the Sunset fire in the same area, the couple were aware of the risks of flames in the Hollywood Hills, home to multimillion-dollar houses and acres of wildlife habitat. Together, they detained the suspect and caught him on video apparently admitting to starting the blaze. "There was no doubt in my mind he did it," said DiMarco, a designer. In the man's hand was what appeared to be a lighter, she said. Mitchell, 41, is a former professional football player, and was able to chase the suspect down, quickly closing a 150-yard gap. Given that the incident occurred toward the end of a hilly hike, 'I was just surprised I had a little left in the tank,' he joked. By the time DiMarco got her cellphone camera rolling, Mitchell was already confronting the suspect. 'I made sure he knew that he wasn't going anywhere,' Mitchell said. Other hikers on the busy trail joined in to help detain the man and to call the police and fire authorities. Some passersby filmed in the now-viral video of the encounter expressed frustration at the man. The Los Angeles Fire Department arrived at the scene with helicopters and fire trucks, and the fire was out within an hour. State park rangers and Los Angeles Police Department officers arrested the suspect, according to LAFD spokesperson Margaret Stewart. LAPD officials did not identify the suspect and referred all questions about the incident to state park rangers, who did not respond immediately to calls for comment. After the couple left, the shock set in. DiMarco uploaded the video when the couple got off the hill. 'I didn't realize how big it would be,' she said. 'It's sad that he admitted that he did that and didn't care." Their video was viewed hundreds of thousands of times on Instagram. Among thousands of comments were some claiming they saw the same man at other parks trying to set fires. The couple had time to think back to the deadly fires of January. The Sunset fire burned 43 acres near Runyon Canyon and triggered massive evacuations Jan. 8 but damaged no homes. Still, it ignited during the same period of strong winds that fueled the devastating fires that burned in Altadena and Pacific Palisades, taking 30 lives. 'We don't wanna relive that, and we don't want anybody else to have to relive that,' Mitchell said. Sign up for Essential California for news, features and recommendations from the L.A. Times and beyond in your inbox six days a week. This story originally appeared in Los Angeles Times.
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Travel + Leisure
16 hours ago
- Travel + Leisure
These European Islands Have 24 Hours of Daylight in Summer—and Sit Just Above the Arctic Circle
At some point on my second night in Norway, I stop checking my watch. Not out of laziness or an act of rebellion, but simply because it has stopped mattering. It's 11 p.m. I am standing on Reinebringen, one of Norway's most famous peaks, gazing out across the fjord below. Golden light spills across the water, casting lengthy shadows and catching the wings of gulls circling beneath. In this moment, I feel something rare: a quiet, expansive joy I haven't found in any other place I've traveled. This is my first encounter with friluftsliv . View from Offersoykammen hiking trails in Lofoten, Nordland, Norway. RolfSt/iStockphoto/Getty Images Friluftsliv— loosely meaning 'open-air life'—is a Norwegian concept rooted in finding meaning and joy in being outdoors. First coined by playwright Henrik Ibsen in 1859, it's contagious: 77 percent of Norwegians get outdoors at least once a week, and a quarter do so daily. This is perhaps one reason why Norwegians are some of the happiest folks in the world. Few places offer a better setting for exploring friluftsliv than the Lofoten Islands. North of the Arctic Circle, the seven main islands stretch across more than 100 miles of wild, pristine landscape. Mountains rise suddenly and everywhere, reflected perfectly in the still fjords and inlets beneath, as if replicating the Game of Thrones intro. They inescapably frame every village and road. The beaches, though, come as a surprise. Haukland is a perfect example and a regular entrant on lists of the best beaches in Europe: sugar-white sand, royal blue water so clear it looks tropical—until you dip your toes in and realize you're at 68 degrees north—and a silence broken only by the waves and breeze. A dog walker passes us with a cheery wave. 'Welcome to the Caribbean,' he says with a grin, barely breaking stride as we stand open-mouthed at the sweep of white sand and turquoise surf. His dog doesn't pause, either. Clearly, it's heard this line before. For beginners, it's easiest to embrace friluftsliv on Lofoten between mid-May and mid-July, when the sun never sets but lingers on the horizon like a guest reluctant to leave the party. Locals make the most of it—kayakers get out on the water before breakfast and colleagues share office gossip on after-dinner hikes. Even the Norwegian royal family is frequently spotted on Lofoten's hiking trails. 'We were slightly nervous about overtaking them' a local guide tells us. 'I mean, is curtseying a requirement halfway up a mountain?' In such lofty company, our challenge becomes how to fully embrace friluftsliv during our five days on Lofoten. The simple answer is to take advantage of the freedom of a world unruled by clocks and get outside at all hours of day and night. We start our day hiking Offersøykammen, our local hill; 10 hours later, we set out to climb Reinebringen, Lofoten's best-known trail. The 1,972 stone steps, installed by Sherpas to combat erosion, are brutal, but the summit view is breathtaking, in the most literal sense. Both hikes offer relatively short (one- to 1.5-hour) ascents, steep drops, and full panoramas revealed only in the final steps. The sun hovers low on the horizon, softly illuminating distant ridgelines, while the sheer cliffs expose the villages below: churches, football pitches, and harbors, all teeming with friluftsliv -infused Norwegians. The author kayaking with Lofoten Arctic Adventures. Travelers are catching on to the unlimited potential of 24-hour daylight and tour providers are adapting fast. Lofoten Arctic Adventures is the first tour company to offer midnight-sun kayaking on the islands. Our booking is rescheduled to mid-afternoon due to stormy weather, but in a land ungoverned by time, it hardly matters. Run by a Belgian-Czech couple, Hannelore and Jan, the tour is rich with water-bound history, from edible seaweed clinging to the rocks (surprisingly spinachy) to the social hierarchy of house colors. The iconic red rorbuer (fishermen's cabins) seen all over Lofoten once housed the thousands of fishermen who flocked here each winter for cod season. The cabins' deep red hue is down to a mix of iron oxide and fish blood. Wealthier residents marked their homes with costlier whites or yellows, a tradition that has continued for the past century. When interlopers deviate from these colors, it makes the newspapers. To Hannelore, friluftsliv means the freedom to be outside every day—on foot, on the water, wherever the light leads. They run family hikes, camping trips, and kayaking tours, and say the shift in people is almost always the same. 'Once they stop checking their watches, they start smiling more' she tells me. 'It's like their hearts have slowed down.' Jan nods, adding, 'Even the kids eventually stop asking what time it is. The parents usually thank us for that.' After multiple activities and nursing sore calves, we decide to indulge friluftsliv in a less active way. We join a RIB safari from Svolvær harbor in search of sea eagles, racing across mirrored fjords in a black inflatable boat that feels more spy novel than sightseeing. The eagles, with a wing span approaching eight feet, can spot fish from a great height and swoop in, talons outstretched, to pick up their dinner. They circle above the cliffs, unbothered and precise, leaving everybody feeling thoroughly insignificant. Oldenvatnet lake seen from the Mount Hoven skylift. estivillml/iStockphoto/Getty Images On our final evening, we take another late-night hike, choosing the over 1,200-foot Hoven, which towers above Lofoten Links, a contender for most scenic golf course in the world. The steady trail upwards is empty and, at the summit, we stand alone. Midnight comes and goes without fanfare—no darkness, no noise, just the soft crunch of boots on stone, the slow drift of gulls, and perhaps the odd sea eagle in gold-edged flight. On another trip, this hour would have found me on a subway platform or nursing a beer in a dim bar. But here, somewhere between the sea and the sky, I've stumbled into a rare kind of freedom—the kind that doesn't care what time it is or where you're supposed to be. A plane from Widerøe airlines in the sky. Reaching Lofoten is easiest by air or sea. The appealing town of Bodø (a 1.5-hour flight from Oslo) is the most convenient mainland base. Air: Widerøe operates eight daily flights from Bodø to Svolvær (Lofoten's largest town), and a similar number to Leknes, a smaller central town. Flights also run once daily from Oslo and Tromsø to Svolvær. All routes take around 30 minutes. Sea: Car ferries run up to four times daily (just over three hours) between Bodø and Moskenes at the southern tip of the archipelago. Book in advance or arrive at least two hours before departure for a walk-up fare. The views as you approach Lofoten are nothing short of spectacular. Foot passenger-only ferries also depart daily from Bodø to Svolvær (about 3.5 hours). Car: A private car is by far the best way to explore. While rentals are available in Leknes and Svolvær, it's usually much cheaper to hire in Bodø and bring the vehicle over on the ferry. Bus: Public buses are run by Reis Nordland. Download the app and view timetables. Just don't expect them to follow the midnight sun. Svolvær has the widest range of accommodations on Lofoten. Scandic Svolvær on the harbor offers simple rooms with stellar views and breakfast included. Thon Hotel nearby gains high praise for its waterside restaurant and floating sauna. Accommodations are cheaper outside Svolvær. We stayed in this delightful Airbnb close to Leknes in the center of the archipelago. It was quiet and comfortable, and within an hour's drive of all sun-chasing activities. Modernized rorbuer have become a popular self-catering accommodations. Fjord-side Lofoten Rorbu Lodge, about 10 minutes from Leknes, is an excellent choice for larger groups, accommodating up to eight travelers.


Fox News
17 hours ago
- Fox News
Innocent hiker mistaken for fugitive dad accused of killing his three daughters
A man hiking in the Idaho wilderness says he was mistaken for fugitive child murder suspect Travis Decker, who has been on the run since May 30. Decker is accused of killing his three daughters — Paityn, 9, Evelyn, 8, and Olivia, 5 — who were found at Rock Island Campground on June 2 after their mother reported them missing three days earlier, when they did not return home from a court-mandated custody visit with their father. U.S. Marshal Supervisory Deputy Michael Leigh said the USMS Greater Idaho Fugitive Task Force on July 5 received a tip from a family in the Bear Creek area of Sawtooth National Forest in Idaho reporting the sighting of a man "consistent with the description of Travis Decker." "The person believed to be Travis Decker was described as a white male, 5'8"-5"10 wearing a black mesh cap, black gauged earrings, cream colored t-shirt, black shorts, long ponytail, black Garmin style watch, beard and mustache overgrown, wearing a black Jan Sport backpack and either converse or vans low top shoes," the USMS said in a July 7 press release. Days later, a Reddit user took to social media saying he was mistaken for Decker over the 4th of July weekend. The user said he and a friend went hiking on July 4, but his friend had to leave, so he went to hike the 889 Bear Creek trail alone the next morning at around 10 a.m. "Made it home safely on Sunday and my friend sent me a news article on Monday about the Decker sighting. We thought we stayed in the area with a killer," the user wrote. "On Tuesday the dots started connecting as news developed with better detail and I realized someone reported me as Decker." The hiker, identified only as Nick, told local news outlet Idaho News 6 that he had been unaware that authorities were searching for Decker in the area where he had been camping and hiking until he returned home. "Everything seems normal until my friend who was up there with me sent a text saying, 'Bro, there's a manhunt for a killer that was in the campground with us, my God we spent the night next to the murderer that is frightening,'" he told the outlet. Nick soon realized he matched the description of the suspect and contacted authorities, who met him at his workplace the following Wednesday. "They friendly interrogated me for half an hour," Nick told Idaho News 6. He added that those who reported him in the Sawtooth National Forest did what they were supposed to do in an ongoing search for a dangerous fugitive. "In my opinion, I don't realistically look like… that guy. [But] they saw me from a distance," Nick told Idaho News 6. "But be careful because this has been a little tumultuous for me and people around me. It's been disruptive at work, but I would encourage people to do that." Multiple local and federal agencies are involved in the active search for Decker. He drives a 2017 white GMC Sierra with the Washington license plate D20165C, according to authorities. A Chelan County sheriff's deputy found the truck around 4 p.m. on June 2 at the Rock Island Campground in Leavenworth, Washington. They found all three girls' bodies between 75 and 100 yards away, down an embankment, according to court documents. Each one had a plastic bag over her head, and "their wrists were also zip-tied or showed signs of being zip-tied," according to the affidavit. Deputies found two bloody handprints on the pickup's tailgate. Authorities warn that Decker should be considered armed and dangerous but insist they have no reason to believe he is a threat to public safety. He is charged with three counts of aggravated first-degree murder and kidnapping. The U.S. Marshals Service is offering a $20,000 reward for any information leading to Decker's arrest.


The Guardian
20 hours ago
- The Guardian
The valleys of the Dolomites: exploring Italy's new network of wild trails
Thick white cloud hangs outside the windows of Rifugio Segantini, a mountain hut 2,373 metres up in the Italian Alps. But it is shifting, revealing glimpses of the majestic Brenta Dolomites before us: a patch of snow here, a craggy peak there. The view is tantalising, and a couple of times I have run outside in a kind of peekaboo farce to see the full display, only for it to pass behind clouds again. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. The refuge – cosy, wooden-clad and packed with hikers – is named after the Italian landscape painter Giovanni Segantini, who was inspired by these mountains. His portrait hangs on the walls and his name is embroidered on the lace curtains. A simple stone building with blue and white shutters in Val d'Amola, the refuge is dwarfed by its rugged surrounds, with Trentino's highest peak, the snow-capped 3,556-metre Presanella, as a backdrop. The entries in the guestbook are entirely by locals. For most British hikers, the eastern parts of the Dolomites, like the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Lago di Braies, towards Cortina, are better known. Few come to Trentino, and fewer still come to this part of the Adamello Brenta nature park. This, I am told, is the wild part of these mountains: less explored, with fewer tourists, and rousing 'bigger emotion', according to my mountain guide Nicola Binelli. (He climbed Presanella for the first time when he was six.) I'm here to sample the new Via delle Valli (the Trail of the Valleys), a network of 50 hiking routes covering 50 of Trentino's mountain valleys, which launches this month. It runs from ski capital Madonna di Campiglio down to Lake Idro, taking in both the Brenta Dolomites and the Adamello glacier, Italy's largest. Some are gentle family-friendly strolls; others are remote challenging climbs for which a mountain guide is recommended. Trails can be walked in a day, or strung together in a multi-day trek, making use of the area's mountain huts (open from June to September) and bivouac shelters. But exploring the whole route is a long-term project, intended to be walked over weeks, months or even years. These trails existed before, but they have been unified under the Via delle Valli. Their signage is being updated, maps and GPX files have been made available online, and a 'Valley Passport' has been introduced, which hikers can stamp at each valley as an encouragement to return. Each valley has a local ambassador, intended to pass their love and knowledge of the area on to others. The initiative, which has been three years in the making, is the brainchild of local tourist board manager Loredana Bonazza, who was inspired by Spain's famous Camino de Santiago. The idea, she explains, is to tempt mountain-lovers away from the area's hotspots, like Madonna di Campiglio and Val Genova, and towards adventures on lesser-charted trails. 'Every valley is different,' she says. 'We forget everything [in the mountains]: our stress, our jobs, our family problems. You really feel connected with the mountain. The result is: per scoprire; per scoprirsi. To discover; to discover yourself.' My focus is on two contrasting valleys – the rocky, rough Val D'Amola and neighbouring verdant Val Nambrone, where we begin by exploring one of its jewels: the breathtaking (literally) Lago Vedretta, at 2,600 metres. We climb from another hut, Rifugio Cornisello (newly renovated and all timber and glass), through green alpine pastures, up over a rocky lip, where the lake appears in all its glory. The landscape remains frozen, even in late June, with sheets of ice thawing into pale blue water. You'd be forgiven for thinking it was Patagonia, rather than Italy. There are around 100 bears in Trentino, as well as wolves, foxes, chamois, falcons and eagles. But on the way back to the refuge, where we are spending the night, we take a detour up above the turquoise Lago di Cornisello Superiore to spot fluffier mountain residents: marmots. There are plenty of them up here, promises Debora Rambaldini, ambassador for Val Nambrone and the first woman in the area to become a forest guard. We follow her up a lush green spur dotted with wildflowers, and stand in silence, listening to the sounds of rushing water. Rambaldini puts a finger to her lips. There, a flush of reddish fur, a marmot darting between rocks, bushy tailed. And better still, another sunbathing on a rock below, eyeing us with suspicion. The following day, we head to Val D'Amola. The route takes us around the inky Lago Nero and up over the Bocchetta de l'Om pass, backpacks fully loaded. Val D'Amola is only a few kilometres away, but it is a different world. It is more peat and bog, more Lord of the Rings. The water – grey here, not blue – thunders rather than babbles. But after lunch it's our ascent up to Quattro Cantoni, a steep ledge and the gateway to the next valley, that reveals more of these mountains' wild side. The cloud hangs low and thick, and apparently a storm is coming – soon. The sky rumbles above. Scrambling over rocks, tiptoeing on ledges and gingerly crossing patches of snow, the route is humbling: a reminder to improve my mountaineering skills. But safely back at Segantini, I feel elated. And the storm never comes. At Segantini, just as we sit down for our hearty mountain dinner of polenta, the clouds finally part. Seen from Cornisello, these jagged, teeth-like Dolomites appeared pastel pink in the sunset; now, they are slate-grey, foreboding, capped with snow. They fill the whole horizon. As the sky darkens, we can see the twinkling lights of another hut, the vast Tuckett which sleeps 120 people, slowly appear on their black flanks. I head to bed happy, and feel my heart racing with the altitude. It's a small, six-bed dorm room, with a window that looks back towards the way we came. Occasionally, distant flashes of lightning illuminate the room, disrupting the dark and quiet. Sleeping – and waking – above 2,000 metres, though, is special. Ordinary life, below the clouds, feels a long way down. Time slows, you can only focus on the present, the company, the view. Afterwards, a little part of me will stay up here at Segantini, waiting to come back and explore more of these wild mountains and the secrets of the Via delle Valli. The trip was provided by Trentino Marketing and the local tourist board. Dorm rooms at at Rifugio Cornisello €65 B&B or €90-€100 half-board, and €85 half-board at Rifugio Segantini. For more information about the Via delle Valli, visit