Meet the chef who turned his passion into a Michelin-starred empire

Khaleej Times

03-04-2025

In the bustling world of fine dining, where trends flicker like candle flames and only the most resilient survive, Michelin-starred Chef Jason Atherton has carved a legacy built on relentless ambition, unshakable philosophy, and an insatiable hunger for innovation. From a small seaside town in Lincolnshire to the gleaming skyline of Dubai, his journey has been nothing short of extraordinary.
For Atherton, the path to culinary stardom began in the intimate confines of his mother's guesthouse kitchen in Skegness. 'Mum cooked everything fresh because there wasn't really processed food back then,' he recalls. With no money for extra staff, young Jason and his sister became unofficial sous-chefs and dishwashers. 'For me, it was a way to be close to my mum,' he reminisces. That early exposure to the rhythm of a kitchen—flour-dusted hands, the scent of roasting meats, the clatter of pans—ignited a passion that would shape the rest of his life.
Having spent decades at the helm of some of the world's most prestigious restaurants, Atherton knows that failure is just another ingredient in success. 'If you're going to open 30 restaurants, not every single one is going to work,' he admits. 'But the key is to not see failure as failure—it's part of the journey.'
It's a perspective honed by experience. A bad investment, a struggling location, or even just bad timing can spell disaster, but Atherton embraces the setbacks. 'If you lose money, if you disappoint investors, it's personal,' he says, 'But you take a step back, you learn, and you move forward.'
While some chefs focus on mastering a single technique, Atherton believes in constant evolution. 'No matter how successful you were yesterday, you can always be better,' he says. Whether it's improving his cooking, his leadership, or simply his discipline at the gym, personal development is paramount.
Yet, the biggest lesson of all? Enjoying the journey. 'I've been guilty of constantly grinding, not stopping to appreciate the milestones,' he admits. 'But time flies. One moment, you're the 'hot young chef'; the next, they're talking about lifetime achievement awards.'
Striking the perfect balance between innovation and tradion
In an era where fusion cuisine and bold experimentation dominate, Atherton is wary of blindly following trends. 'Being a chef is like being a designer for a fashion house,' he explains. 'If you're leading the way, people look to you for inspiration. But following trends? That's not enough.'
Instead, he focuses on understanding the 'why' behind them. 'Take street food. People are asking, 'Why spend $1,000 on dinner when I can have an amazing experience for $50?' That's the question we must answer.' At Row on 45, his two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Dubai, he refuses to simply ride the wave of what's popular. 'We cook French food with Japanese ingredients—not because it's trendy, but because I want the best possible product on the plate.'
For Atherton, sustainability isn't just a buzzword—it's a responsibility. 'It's more of a concern for Gen Z than my generation,' he acknowledges. 'But it's not a trend. It's essential for mankind.'
From sourcing local fish for his high-volume restaurants to demanding electric delivery trucks in London, he ensures his operations contribute to a greener future. 'We're all electric—no gas. We minimise waste. In the UK, if a supplier doesn't use electric vehicles, I don't work with them.'
His hope? That by setting the standard, others will follow. 'If Row on 45 is using sustainable ingredients, other chefs take notice. That's how change happens.'
Triumph in Dubai
Opening a restaurant that earns two Michelin stars within ten months is no small feat. Yet, for Atherton, it wasn't about chasing accolades. 'If you set up a restaurant just to win awards, you'll be disappointed,' he says.
Instead, his philosophy is simple: create an unforgettable experience. 'Guests walking out saying, 'That's the best meal I've ever had'—that's what matters.' The awards, he believes, are simply a byproduct of doing things right. 'At Row on 45, we pushed every day, refined every dish. Michelin saw that growth. The 50 Best saw it. That's how we earned it.'
Having first arrived in Dubai in 2000, Atherton has witnessed the city's gastronomic transformation firsthand. 'Back then, it was a very different place. The produce was poor, supply chains were limited, and fine dining was rare.'
Now, he beams with pride at what the city has become. 'You've got some of the best chefs in the world living here, running their own restaurants. The pride in regional cuisine—Persian, Palestinian, Emirati—is incredible. It's no longer just about imported luxury.'
Atherton is particularly conscious about respecting local flavours. 'I use Emirati ingredients like burnt lime and sumac, but I don't try to 'recreate' Emirati food. That belongs to the locals. If you try to compete with someone's childhood flavours, you'll lose every time.'
Amidst all the accolades and culinary philosophy, Atherton still has his simple joys. Asked what he'd eat for the rest of his life, he answers without hesitation: 'Sushi. But top sushi. Not supermarket stuff.'
And the one ingredient he can't cook without? 'High-quality sea salt. Everything—from meat to desserts—depends on it.'
At 53, Jason Atherton has built a culinary empire, mentored countless chefs, and earned more stars than most can dream of. But he's not slowing down, he says, 'You never stop learning. You never stop pushing.'