Who are the new faces of Mendoza's gastronomy

Time Out

24-04-2025

Mendoza's gastronomy is undergoing significant changes, largely driven by "under-30" chefs who embrace creativity, sustainability, and local identity. This generation of chefs, grounded in culinary traditions, also adopts modern techniques and regional products, transforming Mendoza's cuisine into a benchmark of creativity and innovation. Their approach not only aims to delight those who taste their dishes but also contributes to the development of local culture, connecting cooking with respect for the environment and Argentine traditions.
Julieta Cuky, chef at the Savia restaurant in Bodega Casarena, sees cooking as a process of exploration and creation, blending traditional recipes with more playful proposals. Her cuisine aims to be accessible to all audiences, without compromising on the quality and flavor of the products she uses. By combining modern techniques with traditional recipes, she starts with familiar flavors and then offers them a fresh perspective, always with the goal of surprising the diner. Julieta constantly seeks balance with the contemporary, adding, "My cooking is fun because of the play of flavors and the experience we create. The dynamic of the menu also plays a key role. For example, the Chef's Caprices are a very dynamic instance: they are snacks we change every day, playing with what our garden gives us and our creativity. Sometimes we even invite people to eat with their hands to break the protocol a little." In this sense, experimentation is not just a tool but a philosophy that runs through her creative process.
She believes that everything starts in the field, where the producer, with effort and dedication, creates quality products that chefs then transform into dishes. This interaction is "a cycle of mutual respect, where the intervention in the kitchen should be careful and respectful of all the prior work. If there is care throughout this cycle, it will be reflected in the dish," she says, emphasizing the idea.
She also observes that in Mendoza, there is "a united gastronomic community," where chefs support each other, valuing collaboration and teamwork as drivers of growth.
"In Mendoza, there is a united gastronomic community"
Enzo González Petra, chef at Sitio La Estocada, defines his cuisine as "a celebration of the product, where the quality of the ingredients is the priority. It focuses on highlighting the natural flavors of the ingredients with minimal intervention. Gastronomy should respect and enhance the essence of each product," he tells Time Out Mendoza. 80% of the ingredients used in his dishes come from his own garden, which follows biodynamic farming practices. Enzo focuses on what his farm produces, saying, "I'm motivated to work with fresh, flavorful ingredients."
Respect is fundamental in his kitchen, both for what nature provides and for human labor. During the winter months, when the restaurant is closed, he shares, "I'm lucky to work seasonally, and those months when we take a break, I dedicate myself to traveling to research and develop new techniques with my life partner Daniela Ovejero Michelini, sommelier at Sitio La Estocada." For him, technique and creativity are tools to enhance the product's quality, but the priority always remains on what nature offers.
"The traditional food of each place arose from the resources available in the region, whether through cultivation, gathering, or animal husbandry. My gastronomy is based on that same principle: working with the products we find in our garden or with producer friends. Today, I don't feel comfortable reinterpreting traditional dishes; I prefer to give value to the resources we have," reflects Enzo. Regarding the new generation of chefs, he notes that there is growing awareness of sustainability and the quality of raw materials. This generation, influenced by a cultural shift after the pandemic, is focused on creating a more responsible, healthy cuisine with its own identity.
"My gastronomy is based on working with the products we find in our garden or with producer friends"
Aris Pabón, a Colombian chef working in Mendoza at the Flor del Desierto restaurant, defines his cuisine as "a proposal based on technique and product," where the goal is to make the most of each ingredient. He explains, "We produce the bread solely with the intention of dehydrating it and processing it to make the breadcrumbs we use to cover our milanesa." He also emphasizes the importance of constant experimentation in his creative process, where the initial idea of a dish may change depending on mistakes and discoveries that arise during preparation. This flexibility is key to improving and adjusting the proposals ultimately presented to the public.
"We are the places we've been and the experiences we've lived. I'm Colombian, and without realizing it, the Flor del Desierto menu has a lot of fruit because it's commonly consumed in my country. Also, when I was a kid, I painted, and in the kitchen, I was able to channel all that creativity," he highlights about how his homeland influences his cooking.
"We are the places we've been and the experiences we've lived"
Pabón also points out that the new generation of chefs stands out for having access to more information, which allows for rapid growth and a more direct connection with international trends. However, he stresses that personal experience in the kitchen is irreplaceable. For him, values such as respect and awareness are essential for this new generation of chefs.
Daniela Espinoza is a young Venezuelan chef who found in Mendoza a territory to create and expand her gastronomic vision. She defines her cooking as "fully experimental." "I'm starting to integrate a more rustic style as an inspiration," she clarifies, noting that this leads her to have new ideas, perfect her skills, and stay alert to the smallest details. Although recently she has incorporated a more rustic style inspired by her trips with friends to the countryside or the mountains, where she prepares dishes with what is available.
"I find inspiration in the memories of my childhood in Venezuela or in Asian culture with its ancient techniques and methods of preserving or transforming food," she reveals. "I am also inspired by native products, where I seek to prepare them with techniques from other cultures to see what happens there." For her, the new generation of chefs is distinguished by a philosophical and social identity that goes beyond technique: she dreams of a more equitable gastronomic industry, where tips are a bonus and not a necessity, and where respect and empathy are a reality, not just an ideal. As a chef friend once told her, "Cooking delicious food is the easiest thing, and we all do it. Being a good person, that's not." Based on that premise, Daniela believes that inclusion and diversity are fundamental values in cooking: when you understand the richness that differences bring, everything else flows naturally.
"I find inspiration in the memories of my childhood in Venezuela"
For Martín Luchetti, currently executive chef at Entre Cielos, cooking is about playing with seasonal ingredients, mixing techniques, and reinterpreting the classics with a personal touch. "I like combining international recipes with local products, like making a Mexican mole with local ingredients or a Tomaticán with a more elegant twist." But beyond the dishes, what's most important to him is the team: if there's no motivated and connected group, the kitchen loses its essence. Fruits, acids, pickles, and crunches are essential in his recipes, while parsley and fresh basil provide the finishing touch. For him, cooking should surprise, but without losing its identity.
"Social media is a great source of inspiration today. Seeing creative dishes generates new ideas. Often, I adapt recipes I like to my style. For me, it's key to put my personal stamp on each dish. Creativity should be a source of inspiration, not a copy. Although, often, imitation is seen more than originality, and that can lead to creating a cuisine that adapts too much to what the customer expects, repeating dishes found in many restaurants," he explains.
"Social media is a great source of inspiration today"
Martín believes that Mendoza is in a great gastronomic moment, and the arrival of the Michelin Guide is proof of this growth. However, for him, the real change lies in the way of working: valuing the team, collaborating with colleagues, and trusting Mendoza's chefs.