Nairobi like a local

Reuters

4 days ago

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Welcome to Nairobi, or as locals like to call it, 'The Green City under the Sun.'
I moved to Nairobi in August 2021 to report on the region, most recently as the East Africa bureau chief for Reuters. Then, the Kenyan capital was wet, cold and under a strictly enforced COVID-19 curfew. And yet, by the time the weekend rolled around, I knew I wanted to live here for as long as possible.
After all, where else in the world can you start your day with a forest walk along caves and waterfalls, make a pit stop to feed giraffes or pet baby elephants, and enjoy a sunset while overlooking a national park? You read that right: Nairobi has its own national park, where you can watch a family of hippos cool off at a watering hole and lions hunt for their next kill against the backdrop of the city's dramatic skyline.
Kenya's capital gets its name from the Maasai phrase Enkare Nairobi or "cool waters," a reference to the Nairobi River which flows through the city. The garbage-clogged river has seen better days, but the city lives up to its nickname — it is green and sunny most of the year, save for its two annual monsoons.
Here's my guide on how to get the most out of Nairobi like a local:
Getting around: Nairobi has many things to boast about, but an efficient public transport system is not one of them. The easiest way to get around is by Uber or Bolt — cab rides start at around 200 Kenyan shillings ($1.50). If you are pressed for time or money, you can book a motorcycle taxi (known as a "boda"), but road accidents are common; wear a helmet.
What to read and watch: The most famous book and film set in Kenya is probably "Out of Africa," but it's safe to say that Danish author Karen Blixen's 1937 memoir is a product of its time. For a more local perspective, pick up a copy of "The Perfect Nine," a short epic in verse that tells the story of the Kikuyu people, Kenya's largest tribe. Its celebrated author, the late Ngugi wa Thiong'o, who died this year, wrote books in his native Gikuyu language and translated them himself into English. For a look at contemporary Kenya, watch "Nairobi Half Life" — the 2012 film is a gripping take on the hustle culture that defines life for so many in Kenya's capital. "Britain's Gulag," by Caroline Elkins, meanwhile, turns a spotlight on Kenyan detention camps run by the British colonial government. It's not for the faint-hearted, but is a triumph of scholarship.
What to eat and drink: Barbecued meat is a Kenyan speciality, and for the carnivores among us, it would be amiss to leave Nairobi without sampling nyama choma — a traditional staple usually involving barbecued goat or beef. Wash it down with a Kenyan beer or try a dawa ("medicine" in Swahili) cocktail made with vodka, lime and honey.
Not a meat eater? Nestled deep inside Nairobi's lush Karen neighbourhood, Cultiva is a farm-to-table restaurant with a wide range of options for all diet preferences. If you do eat meat, don't miss the Wagyu beef burger; it's the best I have ever had. Beit e Selam in the busy Westlands district, meanwhile, serves up a modern take on African cuisine — it's a cosy spot for dinner, with the most talented bartenders in Nairobi. I always begin with a Mombasa cocktail — a Kenyan spin on the Manhattan — before moving on to corn ribs and an ostrich Reuben. Side note: All meat sold in Kenya is farmed, and game meat is banned in the country.
Do not leave without doing this: Between a national park, wildlife sanctuaries and two forests, visitors to Nairobi are faced with an embarrassment of riches when it comes to spending time in nature. And that's before one considers nearby getaways such as the tea estates in Tigoni, Lake Naivasha or Amboseli National Park, famed for its elephants, flamingos and views of Mount Kilimanjaro. Here's how to make the most of it in 36 hours: Start with an early morning safari in Nairobi National Park followed by a visit to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust elephant orphanage (advance bookings are essential). From there, head over to Cultiva for lunch and finish with a visit to the Giraffe Centre to feed endangered Rothschild giraffes. Kick off your second day with a walk through Karura Forest — home to antelopes, monkeys, caves and waterfalls — and reward yourself for your efforts with brunch at the River Cafe, an al fresco restaurant tucked inside the forest.
Souvenirs: Kenya's woodwork, brass and leather craftsmanship is second to none. The best way to find these souvenirs is either on Instagram, where brass jewellery brands like We Are NBO and Adele Dejak have a devoted following, or through pop-up markets like Pop Up and Chill and the Kenyan Designer Collective that happen every few weeks. Or you can head over to The Urban Lifestyle, House of Treasures, African Lifestyle Hub or Tribal Gallery (appointments recommended) for a tightly curated selection of African crafts including homeware, stationery, apparel and even furniture. And of course, don't forget the coffee — I favour the dark roast from Spring Valley Coffee, which also makes for a great gift for friends and family back home.
Being mindful: Nairobi has come a long way since it earned the unfortunate moniker "Nairobbery" — so called because of the crime rate — but it is still advisable to avoid walking alone or in isolated areas, especially after dark. The weather can be capricious, so make sure you layer up, since temperatures can dip dramatically in the evenings. Finally, while haggling is expected in some quarters in Kenya, know a bargain when you see it and tip well for good service. Kenyans tend to go out of their way to make visitors' stays memorable and "a little something for lunch" as they call it is always welcome.
CITY MEMO DATA POINTS
Population: Five million.
Price of a cup of coffee: 230 shillings ($1.80) for a cappuccino at Tin Roof Cafe in Karen.
Price of a scoop of ice cream: 300 shillings ($2.30) for a scoop at Non Solo Gelato. I recommend the black cherry flavour.
Great place to see a sunset: Unseen Nairobi, a rooftop cinema, restaurant and bar, that serves up a delicious tamarind margarita. Or stay at the Emara Ole Sereni hotel, which borders Nairobi National Park and has a rooftop pool with a bar.
Best way to spend a Sunday evening: Grab a drink or dine at Bamba, which hosts musicians from across Africa every weekend.
Souvenirs for little ones: Knitted animal toys from Kenana Knitters. Each toy bears the name of the woman who made it.