
We asked if Cape traffic was worth it. You answered. And yelled. And empathized.
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TODAY'S STARTING POINT
In yesterday's newsletter I asked the question: At what point is a trip to Cape Cod not worth the miserable traffic? Is the excruciatingly claustrophobic experience of trying to get on and off the Cape enough to cancel out the many magics of a Cape vacation?
And you answered. And yelled. And lectured. And commiserated. And questioned my sanity. And questioned the sanity of anyone who would question my sanity.
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But before I get to those, let me address something I avoided yesterday, but is front and center for me when entertaining any invitations to cross the Cape Cod Canal: Is there anything down the Cape that I can't get somewhere else, without the aggravation?
Granted, I live on Cape Ann, and we have everything Cape Cod has, in miniature, but with colder water and fewer sharks. (I should add that we also have traffic. Tons and tons of hours-long backups, constantly, so definitely don't come here.)
But it's not just Cape Ann.
Everywhere
in New England is magic in the summer. The Cape has become synonymous with summer, deservedly so. I don't think it's overrated. (Overpriced is another matter.) Instead, I think so many places are underrated, and once you allow that light to flicker in, it becomes harder to accept as fate that enduring bridge traffic is a necessary part of an epic summer.
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'No length of stay is enough' to make the traffic worth it, wrote a reader from New Hampshire named Sandy. 'Not only is it a horrible experience, I am also made acutely aware of the carbon spewing out of my and everyone else's tailpipes. It just cannot be justified.'
Readers raved about the South Coast, the beaches in Rhode Island and Maine, the lakes of New Hampshire and Vermont, the culture of the Berkshires, on and on and on. That's my point.
I expected those responses; what I did not expect were the sheer number of people who wrote that they had been so damaged by repeated run-ins with Cape traffic – 'I tell people that it's just like jet lag,' one wrote – that they sold their summer homes and never went back.
In answer to the question of how long you need to spend down the Cape to make the hassle of getting there and back worth it, readers were tripping over themselves to shout: There is nothing that makes it worth it!
'Sorry, but no amount of time could make up for the horrendous traffic,' Frank from the North Shore wrote. 'I haven't been to Cape Cod in 30 years.'
'I've barely seen my parents in a decade since they moved to the Cape,' wrote Jeff from Middleton.
And of course, there were many, many, many who emailed to explain the 'secret' to beating Cape traffic. Several even insisted this secret was so good that I was forbidden to share it (even though I had mentioned it in yesterday's newsletter). Regardless, I'll tell you again. I'm a rebel like that. Are you ready? Leave really early or really late, or go at non-peak times.
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I don't have the heart to inform these people that this isn't actually a secret. The people who were sitting beside me in bridge traffic on Sunday also know this. It's just often not possible to leave at those hours, which is why peak traffic hours exist.
'The stress of the traffic, the calculations about what time will be best (maybe if we wait until 10 p.m. to drive ... , etc.), in addition to the cost, makes the Cape feel alien and distant,' wrote one woman who cherished her childhood trips to Wellfleet.
'I hit my wall with the Cape about 7 years ago,' another reader wrote. 'Had been going most every weekend for about 25 years as an adult. Can't do it any more. Traffic has sucked the fun out of it.'
Still others informed me (again, like they were sharing a secret) that there are ferries and trains and even airplanes that go to Cape Cod. These are a great option if you love complicated logistics; find it easy to get to Rowes Wharf, South Station, or Logan Airport; just so happen to be going to wherever it is those planes, trains, and ferries travel to; and won't need a car when you get there. Also, the CapeFlyer train only runs once per day, and only on weekends.
But at least one person offered a zen approach to balance peak traffic against peak fun.
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'My formula is four hours travel time on each end requires three full days of fun,' wrote Kathy from Jamaica Plain. 'If I start out accepting how long the trip is going to be (not how much shorter it would be if I left at 4 a.m., as my sister-in-law does) I am calmer.
'I'll be headed to Wellfleet Sunday for five full days of family, friends, and fun. And yes, it's worth the travel.'
🧩
9 Across:
91°
POINTS OF INTEREST
By Kaitlin Lewis
Yoni Zisblatt ran through a fountain during Tuesday's searing heat.
Heather Diehl for the Boston Globe
Boston and New England
102:
That's where Boston's temperatures peaked on Tuesday amid the suffocating heat felt across the region —
Fallout from Read verdict:
Karen Read's defense attorney
Political ads:
Many Boston voters recently received a text from an anonymous sender slamming Mayor Wu, including my colleague Shirley Leung. It's a perfectly legal move amid loopholes in Mass.' campaign laws,
Protecting the vulnerable:
New data shows that adult patients at the state's mental hospital in Worcester were restrained for close to two hours in most instances last year, raising concerns about patients' well-being. (
Trump administration
Precarious peace, and profanity:
A ceasefire between Iran and Israel appeared to hold Tuesday after initially faltering, and after Trump ripped both countries for fighting
More doubts on NATO:
Heading into a summit with other members of the alliance, Trump cast uncertainty over whether the US would abide by the mutual defense guarantees outlined in NATO's treaty, telling reporters it "
Holding tight:
Fed ChairJerome Powell said he's in a wait-and-see mode about cutting interest rates — something Trump has agitated for — because it's 'highly uncertain' how tariffs will affect consumers. (
The Nation and the World
Flight cuts:
JetBlue is leaving Miami as of Sept. 3, including daily flights from Boston. It's keeping service to West Palm Beach and Fort Lauderdale. (
Nuclear power:
New York Governor Kathy Hochul said her state is looking to build a large nuclear power plant, the first undertaken in the US in more than 15 years. (
GLP-1 safety:
Novo Nordisk will stop offering Wegovy through Hims & Hers — less than two months into their partnership — claiming that the direct-to-consumer pharmacy is unlawfully selling knockoff weight loss drugs. (
BESIDE THE POINT
By Teresa Hanafin
💌
Love Letters:
A groom-to-be asks: How can I be the best possible husband? Meredith's advice:
🪩
Being a good guest:
Speaking of marriage, here are
💍
The Big Day:
And the wedding stories just keep on coming. These newlyweds are independent by nature, but kept choosing
🔭
It's a new day:
The largest digital camera ever built has released its breathtaking first photos of the universe, kicking off a 10-year mission to explore the changing universe in stunning detail. (
🍬
Sweet on you:
Candy is having a moment.
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🌳
'Finding Louis:'
In 2022, a Dutch detectorist found something that put him at the center of a World War II story — and
🍧
Pops:
These 40 recipes for delightful popsicles will keep you cool all summer. Between you and me, some of them are ice cream-adjacent. (
Thanks for reading Starting Point.
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Food and drinks (including all meals, snacks, coffees, smoothies, and more) are part of the all-inclusive rate, though there are a few exceptions we'll touch on below. We had all our meals at Harvest Moon Restaurant, the main (included) restaurant on property. The restaurant serves three meals a day, with options for buffets or a la carte ordering at breakfast and lunch and a nightly dinner menu. I had relatively low expectations before I arrived—all-inclusive resorts often have a reputation for serving less-than-stellar food—but I was very impressed by the ever-changing menus. Everything we ate was delicious, flavorful, wholesome, and often incorporated seasonal ingredients from local farms and producers (like a local cheesemonger and baker). You might think that dining at the same venue multiple times a day would get boring, but each meal had distinct offerings, perfectly portioned. For lighter snacks plus coffee, tea, and smoothies, The Roost (located right next to Harvest Moon) has you covered. And really, what is better than unlimited lattes and matcha? Snacks are available at the counter and in a refrigerator and include everything from granola bars to the best chicken salad I've ever had. The food was a highlight for us, and we didn't even have the chance to eat at the more upscale 1894 Restaurant inside Wyndhurst Mansion, available at an extra charge and only open for dinner Friday-Sunday (though fellow guests raved about their meals there, too). Unlike some other wellness resorts, alcohol is available at Miraval Berkshires, served in the restaurants and at The Roost's bar, but it is not included in your rate. Beer, wine, and craft cocktails are available and delicious if you choose to partake, but there are plenty of non-alcoholic options, too. Note that you will need to make dinner reservations each night; you can do this ahead of time or in the morning day-of at the Harvest Moon host stand. The Challenge Course is one of the many outdoor actives. James Baigrie/Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa Miraval is all about creating your perfect wellness experience, bespoke to your own needs and interests, so there's truly something for everyone. There are several opportunities to move your body however you like each day, including hiking, yoga, barre, high-intensity interval training, and Pilates, plus unorthodox exercise classes like cardio drumming (a personal favorite). There's mindfulness in many forms, from various sound baths (the sensory silk cocoon mediation was a highlight) to beginner-friendly gratitude meditations to pottery classes that take a hands-on approach to mindfulness. There are foodie-focused classes, like the Joy of Java, which dives deep into coffee, Champagne and oyster tastings, and even fermentation classes. There are physical and mental health-related group sessions that cover everything from love and compassion to navigating menopause to coping with fear. From astrology, tarot, mediumship, and past-life regression to chicken keeping and hatchet-throwing—there is genuinely something for whatever journey you're on. There is also golf, a ropes course, indoor and outdoor pools, a fitness center, trails, and other on-property amenities. Each day offers a mix of paid (usually $50-$150, though some fall outside that range) and complimentary classes, and you have the opportunity to pay for private sessions with many of the instructors. The art studio is where guests can engage in creative activities. Elizabeth Rhodes/Travel + Leisure This is truly a four-seasons property, and activities may change depending on the time of year you visit, so I highly recommend scoping out the daily activities calendar before booking. You can also chat with an Experience Planner after you book your stay to figure out which classes you want to sign up for. Classes do fill up, so I recommend booking as early as possible. You can pack your schedule as much or as little as you want; Personally, I aimed for at least one physical class, one mindfulness-related activity, and one other activity that caught my eye each day, with plenty of time for relaxation and meals in between, but you can structure your days however you see fit. You can always add more to your schedule if there is space, but know that you cannot arrive late to any class. The Women's Lounge at the resorts spa. James Baigrie/Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa Treatments at the Life in Balance Spa range from traditional massages and facials to unique-to-Miraval experiences that incorporate all the senses. There are Ayurveda-influenced treatments, Thai massages, reiki, and bodywork done in hanging silks or pools of water, just to name a few. There are also salon and nail services and a menu of prenatal options. The spa itself is beautiful, with co-ed relaxation areas (including an indoor/outdoor pool and a hot tub) and gender-separated areas with steam rooms, saunas, and hot tubs across the nearly 30,000-square-foot space. The spa is of course a huge draw here, so we recommend making an appointment early so you can ensure you get the treatment and time slot you want. Guests must be 18 and up to stay at the resort. Couches sit around a cozy fireplace. Scott Barrow/Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa ADA rooms are available, and public areas including restaurants, the swimming pool, and the spa are accessible. All Miraval resorts share a commitment to sustainability that includes providing guests with refillable water bottles when they arrive (they can refill at stations throughout the property), caring for rescued animals, using eco-friendly single-use food products, and more. Miraval Berkshires uses an onsite Bokashi composting system. Scenic view of the grounds at Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa in Lenox, Massachusetts. James Baigrie/Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa Miraval Berkshires is located in Lenox, Massachusetts. If you're not driving, take advantage of the complimentary shuttle service to and from Bradley International Airport in Connecticut (about 75 minutes away) or Wassaic Train Station (about 70 minutes away). Later this year, the resort will discontinue Wassaic service and instead offer complimentary transportation to and from the Hudson Amtrak station (about 50 minutes away) for those traveling by train from New York City or nearby areas. I took the Metro-North from Manhattan to Wassaic (which includes one transfer), where we met our driver. You can also book a helicopter charter through the resort if you want to get there faster. Be sure to contact the transportation team a minimum of 72 hours in advance to schedule your shuttle. The patio of one of the cottage guest rooms. James Baigrie/Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa The standard Miraval Package includes all meals and non-alcoholic beverages, plus a $175 nightly resort credit that you can use on paid classes, spa treatments, and more. The resort is gratuity-free, and there are a number of free activities each day. The Ultimate Wellbeing Package includes all activities, plus the $175 nightly credit. Miraval is part of World of Hyatt, so you can earn and redeem Hyatt points at Miraval Berkshires. It's also bookable via the American Express Fine Hotels and Resorts portal. Amex cardmembers may receive property credit, room upgrades, and late check-in/checkout. Nightly rates at Miraval Berkshires Resort and Spa start from $679. Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.