How to plan the ultimate island-hopping adventure in Croatia
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The fascination of islands is that they appear to be distinct, self-contained worlds. If that's true, then Croatia is practically its own solar system. From the Kvarner Gulf at the head of the Adriatic to the Dalmatia region between Zadar and Dubrovnik, more than 1,185 islands spray down the coast like a meteorite shower.
Whatever you're looking for, you'll find it here — from buzzy resorts for a party crowd on Hvar to towns like Korčula or Rab, their streets an insouciant jumble of gothic and Renaissance beauty. In between are endless pine-scrubbed specks with no firm grip on the 21st century, washed by the cleanest waters in the Mediterranean.
Lazy beach days may be the draw, but this is a country rich in history. Grasp that Croatia is all about cultural tectonics and you're halfway to making sense of a destination that's exotic and familiar by turns. It's a nation created where the plates of European history — Ancient Greek and Roman, Austro-Hungarian in the north Adriatic, and the Venetian Republic in the south — have met and occasionally collided over millennia. All have left their mark, whether in architecture, cuisine or culture. Likewise, the people of Croatia mix Central European business head, Mediterranean heart and Balkan soul.
Holidaymakers have been fascinated by this destination for more than a century. George Bernard Shaw said of Croatia's islands: 'On the last day of Creation, God wished to crown his work, so he created the Kornati islands out of tears, sand and breath.' Edward VIII, on a romantic cruise with Wallis Simpson in 1936, entertained daydreams of escaping state duties by buying and renovating a little mansion by the sea. After the implosion of Yugoslavia in 1991, Croatia saw a return to form; the dreary accommodation that had sprung up during the Communist era beginning to make way for luxurious small stays.
With so many islands to choose from, it's tempting to hop furiously between them — especially as, in season, ferry connections are good and cheap if you travel on foot. However, each destination deserves a few days, at least. Slow down to the islands' pace and you'll find that individual identities slowly reveal themselves. The trick is to select islands whose ferry routes daisy-chain into coherent paths — as they do in these two itineraries. See our highlights as gateways for your own discoveries.
Itinerary 1: Dalmatian classics
The islands off the Dalmatian coast showcase Croatia at its most vivid. They're sunbaked and wild, perfumed by pine trees and herbs, silvered by olive trees and contoured by the grapevines introduced by the ancients. Blasted by the light and heat of centuries, it's a land of living poetry, packed with history, which has elevated easy living into an art form.
This route visits Croatia's most celebrated islands — plus one curveball — and is bookended by its most beautiful cities: Split and Dubrovnik, both of which have international airports. After sleepy Šolta comes an archipelagic beauty parade: Vis, bohemian and increasingly upmarket; Hvar, which combines Renaissance looks with a modest club scene; then Korčula Town, one of the finest medieval citadels in the Mediterranean. A car limits your options for this itinerary, so pack light and travel on foot.
1. Šolta
One hour from Split harbour by ferry, Šolta is a pipsqueak of an island. It was called Solenta, meaning 'Sun Island', by the Romans. It's now a backwater of olives and pine scrub, whose rich soils produce a red wine so dark it's almost black. Hire a scooter or mountain bike at the port — the island is just 12 miles long — to taste dobričić wine and olive oil at Kaštelanac Agroturizam, discover idyllic harbours Maslinica and Stomorska, and follow tracks to rocky coves on the south coast. Top picks include Stračinska, Senjska, Jorja and Tatinja.
The town of Jelsa, just 30 minutes from Hvar Town, offers views of the blue Croatian coast and mainland in the distance, especially when venturing up to St. Mary's Church.
Photograph by Getty Images, 4FR
2. Komiža, Vis
Today Vis's chief claims to fame are Stiniva beach and Mamma Mia! — the 2018 sequel was filmed here — but millennia ago, Caesar described Croatia's furthest inhabited island as 'the most distinguished in the area'. Vis Town's Issa Archaeology Museum has various Roman finds, while the Venetian houses in adjoining Kut village are also worth exploring. Next, cross Vis to set-jet in Komiža, the island's prettiest harbour: ABBA renditions optional. From here, Alternatura runs sailing trips in falkuša (traditional fishing boats).
3. Hvar Town, Hvar
A village-sized Saint-Tropez meets Ibiza, Hvar lures superyachts and young holidaymakers with its beach clubs; the best is Carpe Diem — it's on Stipanska, one of the Pakleni islands, easily reached from Hvar. Among all the glitz is Hvar Town's Renaissance core, constructed by the Venetian Republic as a naval base and trade route staging post. Ascend to a 16th-century castle for harbour views, admire art in the Franciscan Monastery and drink in chichi cocktail bars.
4. Korčula Town, Korčula
Approaching this UNESCO-listed town by sea is bewitching. It's a medieval citadel of walls and towers like chess pieces, crammed onto a thumbnail of land and ambered in the faded glory of 400 years of Venetian rule. The gothic-Renaissance cathedral is its highlight, but it's better understood as a tiny city. You'll circle it in 30 minutes yet discover new detail for days: a heraldic crest here, a hole-in-the-wall gelateria there. Pair it with a day trip to Lumbarda village, where you'll find the sandy beach of Pržina and a white wine introduced by Ancient Greeks, Grk — Bire vineyard has tastings.
5. Mljet
One third of Mljet is protected by its namesake national park. Swim in interconnected saltwater lakes near Pomena or paddle a kayak to the former Benedictine church but, to escape Dubrovnik day-trippers, be sure to take a five-hour walk around northwest bays, winding up at the village of Govedari. For adventure, visit Odysseus Cave, where the hero was said to have been captivated by Circe.
How to do it Intrepid offers an eight-day trip visiting all islands except Šolta aboard a shared four-cabin 52ft sailing yacht , from £1,753 per person. Šolta is an hour from Split by ferry, which are frequent. To travel independently, take Jadrolinija ferries from Vis to Hvar, then take Kapetan Luka for the rest of the route.
'Closer to reminiscence than reality,' said Victorian architect TG Jackson of the old dream-like town of Rab. Its embankment offers great spots for sunbathing.
Photograph by Getty Images, Patstock
Itinerary 2: The Kvarner Gulf
Because Dalmatia hogs the spotlight, the islands of the northern Adriatic are quieter, ferry travel with a car is easier and there's usually more space on the beach. Yet the region offers many quintessentially Croatian holiday experiences. There are semi-wild islands like Cres — roughly pronounced 'tsress', with seductive sibilants — where rare vultures ride thermal winds. Also Pag, which has a singular, austere beauty. On Lošinj — 'losheen' — there are handsome harbours and, in Rab Town, a cat's cradle of historic streets as picturesque as any in the country.
Ironically, this region was the first to appear in Croatia's brochures — Lošinj emerged as a wellness destination for Austro-Hungarians in the late 1800s. King Edward VIII, visiting Rab in 1936, so thoroughly embraced the holiday spirit he was moved to skinny-dip.
1. Krk Town
Pick up a car at Rijeka airport and you're already on Krk island. A bridge to the mainland has introduced development, but you soon escape its excesses in the older part of compact Krk Town. How old? Well, beneath a glass floor in beachwear shop Memento is a Roman temple of Venus, while cafe-nightclub Volsonis incorporates an antique tomb. Pair it with a trip to surrounding settlements: wine village Vrbnik and rustic Dobrinj are the best.
2. Tramuntana, Cres
Wild, rare and spectacularly ill-suited to modernity, griffon vultures seem emblematic of Tramuntana, in the northern part of Cres. Here, Beli village is an Adriatic idyll of grey stone and terracotta and home to a rehabilitation centre for Europe's rarest indigenous vulture. You may see them soaring over sea cliffs while you walk signposted paths into the wooded region. Afterwards, head south to the Venetian harbour of Cres Town; nearby rustic restaurant Bukaleta serves the best lamb on the island.
3. Mali Lošinj, Lošinj
This town was destined to be a major port of the Austro-Hungarian empire until its harbour was deemed too small for steamships, which is why it remains a handsome little waterfront with good restaurants in former captains' houses along the quay. Culture comes in at the Apoxyomenos Museum; its star piece is the eponymous 2,000-year-old bronze of an athlete positively twanging with youthful vigour.
4. Rab Town, Rab
'Closer to reminiscence than reality,' said Victorian architect TG Jackson of this dream-like old town. Above alleys jostling with gothic and Renaissance mansions, a series of church spires rise like masts on a square-rig sailing ship. If you only ascend one make it the highest, St Mary's Campanile's bell tower, built in the 12th century. Be sure to stop in on 11th-century St Andrew's Monastery, where Benedictine nuns sell herbal remedies, heirs to a tradition dating to the Middle Ages at least.
Pag is well known for its sheep's cheese and wild sage-fed lamb.
Photograph by Getty Images, Simon002
5. Pag
The Venetian Republic cleared this island's forests and the Adriatic's bura wind cold-blasted their regrowth so, today, Pag is as austere and magical as a desert; its bare limestone more lunar than terrestrial. Pag's beaches are hugely varied — from August clubbing on Zrće to wild escapism at Ručica — but among Croatians it's best known for paški sir (sheep's cheese), and lamb self-seasoned by a diet of wild, salty sage. Producer Gligora offers tours and a cheese bar, while rural hotel Boškinac has a fine slow-food restaurant.
How to do it Getting there & around
British Airways, EasyJet, Jet2,
Average flight time: 3h.
is the nationwide ferry operator, providing the majority of roll-on, roll-off car ferries, plus some fast passenger-only catamarans, often scheduled for commuters. Private operators offer tourist-friendly routes in Dalmatia; the most useful for these itineraries are
When to go
Spring and autumn, especially, are the perfect seasons to visit, with average temperatures around 23C in both May and October. The sea is at its warmest in September, hovering between 22 and 24C. Temperatures in July and August are around 30C, but a bigger issue is visitor numbers; reservations are essential for accommodation and ferries.
More info
Lonely Planet Croatia, £14.99
croatia.hr
How to do it:
Independent travel with a car is the way to go for this itinerary. Cres and Lošinj are connected by bridge,
' eight-day Kvarner Bay Bike and Boat Deluxe itinerary offers accommodation and travel aboard a 17-cabin yacht, plus optional guided e-bike cycling in Cres, Lošinj, Dugi Otok, Zadar, Pag and Rab. From £1,990 per person, B&B, including five lunches and two dinners. Flights are excluded. Ryanair and Wizz Air fly to Split and Dubrovnik from airports throughout the UK. In the Kvarner Gulf, Ryanair flies to Rijeka from Stansted. Alternatively, EasyJet and Jet2 fly to Pula; you can cross quickly to Cres island from Brestova, an hour's drive north.: 3h. Jadrolinija is the nationwide ferry operator, providing the majority of roll-on, roll-off car ferries, plus some fast passenger-only catamarans, often scheduled for commuters. Private operators offer tourist-friendly routes in Dalmatia; the most useful for these itineraries are Kapetan Luka and TP Line Spring and autumn, especially, are the perfect seasons to visit, with average temperatures around 23C in both May and October. The sea is at its warmest in September, hovering between 22 and 24C. Temperatures in July and August are around 30C, but a bigger issue is visitor numbers; reservations are essential for accommodation and ferries., £14.99Independent travel with a car is the way to go for this itinerary. Cres and Lošinj are connected by bridge, Jadrolinija runs services between all other islands. You'll need to double-back to Krk to continue to Rab. Note that the Rab-Novalj ferry — to Pag — is passenger-only. For onward travel with a car, catch a ferry to the mainland then drive to Prizna for the 15-minute crossing to Pag, or continue south for a road bridge to the island. Utracks ' eight-day Kvarner Bay Bike and Boat Deluxe itinerary offers accommodation and travel aboard a 17-cabin yacht, plus optional guided e-bike cycling in Cres, Lošinj, Dugi Otok, Zadar, Pag and Rab. From £1,990 per person, B&B, including five lunches and two dinners. Flights are excluded.
National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click
Published in the June 2025 issue of(UK).To subscribe to(UK) magazine click here . (Available in select countries only).
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Yahoo
7 hours ago
- Yahoo
Why the Balkans should be your next summer destination
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). A complicated region with an extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, Europe's beautiful Balkan lands have been passed through and fought over by civilisations including the Romans, Greeks and Ottomans for more than a millennium. As a result, the term 'Balkans' is one of the slipperiest geographical descriptions in Europe. Broadly speaking it applies to the peninsula that stretches throughout southeastern Europe and ends in Greece. But where it begins — like many things in the Balkans — is a question of politics and perspective. Mainstream travel has been slow to take root in many of the region's countries, but things are gradually starting to change. As beach-holiday destinations go, this coastline is hard to top, offering a winning combination of crystalline coves, ancient settlements and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, all set before a backdrop of craggy mountains. The clear waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas have been drawing admirers to these shores since ancient times, as demonstrated by the remains of sumptuous Roman residences positioned on some of the most beautiful bays. The most famous of these is Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which now forms the heart of Split, Croatia's second-largest city. Some of the Balkan peninsula countries are already firmly on the tourism radar, notably Slovenia, Croatia, Greece and, increasingly, the coastal parts of Montenegro and Albania. The famous walled towns of the coast — such as Dubrovnik in Croatia and Kotor in Montenegro — continue to charm, despite now being crammed with tourists in July and August. But the Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches and crowded coastal cities. Head inland and you'll find a corner of Europe where it's still possible to access real wilderness, with bears, wolves and lynx roaming remote ranges and forgotten forests. To beat the crowds and chase adventure, plan a trip to the smaller, less-explored countries of the Western Balkans. Combined, the five we've highlighted below are roughly the same size as England. With two weeks to spare you could easily get a taste for each. Alternatively, pick just one or two for longer stays. Best for: urban explorationWith idyllic settings in river valleys ringed by mountains, Bosnia and Herzegovina's capital Sarajevo and historic centre of Mostar are two of the most beautiful and fascinating cities in the Balkans. Both suffered dreadfully during the 1990s wars and are still divided along ethnic lines, but the historic mosques, churches, synagogues and markets have now been restored and the streets once again hum with life. Sarajevo's old Ottoman core, Baščaršija, is back to being one of the region's most memorable and enchanting city neighbourhoods, where narrow lanes wind past old bazaars and pigeon-filled squares, and the scent of grilled meat, strong Bosnian coffee and shisha smoke swirls in the air. Mostar's famous 16th-century bridge — destroyed in 1993 — has been rebuilt and once more arcs elegantly over the green waters of the Neretva River. It forms the centrepiece of a heritage quarter of stone houses punctuated by the pencil-thin minarets of Ottoman mosques. (How to spend a perfect weekend in Bosnia & Herzegovina.) Best for: adventureMontenegro may be small, but Kosovo is smaller still. Since declaring independence from Serbia in 2008, this little landlocked nation has started to gain a reputation as an active-holiday destination for intrepid travellers. The pretty town of Peja — with its Byzantine and Ottoman architecture — is at the centre of the action. There's excellent hiking, caving and zip-lining in the surrounding area, as well as a vertigo-inducing via ferrata course in Rugova Canyon — but it's all still very off the beaten track for most travellers. Peja lies at the base of the formidable range known as the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Serbian), which forms the border with Montenegro and Albania. This remote area is one of Europe's true wildernesses. It's now possible to take a multiday hike through the rugged terrain, traversing all three countries, on the 119-mile Peaks of the Balkans track. Trekkers stay in a mixture of family homes and mountain huts. This off-the-grid adventure can also be broken into bite-sized chunks, but shouldn't be undertaken lightly. It's best to enlist the services of a local operator such as Undiscovered Balkans or Balkan Natural Adventure to help with guiding and logistics, including arranging the correct permits for the border crossings. (Europe's newest adventure scene is blossoming in southern Kosovo.) Best for: diverse landscapesMontenegro is tiny — smaller than Northern Ireland — but it crams a lot in. The 'black mountain' that it's named after rises precipitously from the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, creating a spectacular backdrop to the medieval walls of Kotor town. South east of here, Montenegro's Adriatic coastline stretches barely 62 miles as the crow flies but still manages to pack in three more picture-perfect walled towns: Budva, Sveti Stefan and Ulcinj. Inland it's mainly mountains, punctuated by deep river canyons and glistening lakes. These range from the tiny glacial depressions known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) that are a feature of rugged Durmitor National Park, to the largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar, which is an important habitat for wetland birds including giant Dalmatian pelicans. The everchanging scenery makes driving in Montenegro a constant thrill, especially once you escape the crowded coast. The terrain lends itself to myriad summertime activities: canyoning at Nevidio Canyon on the Komarnica River, whitewater rafting on the Tara River and birdwatching cruises on Lake Skadar, to name just a few. For hiking, base yourself in the mountain towns of Cetinje, Kolašin or Žabljak, which are the gateways to three lofty national parks: Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor. A fourth range, Prokletije, on the border with Albania and Kosovo, is home to Montenegro's highest peak (8,316ft). (The ultimate Adriatic coastal adventure in Montenegro's Bay of Kotor.) Best for: beachesAlbania's long and lovely coastline stretches along two separate seas: the Adriatic and the Ionian. The Ionian, in particular, has some magnificent beaches, where the turquoise waters of southwestern Albania approach Caribbean levels of intensity. If you were hoping to chance upon uncrowded and undeveloped bays in Albania, that ship has sailed. The Ionian coast is now being touted as the 'Albanian Riviera' and construction can be seen everywhere, especially in popular places like Ksamil. That said, busy spots such as Mirror Beach (Plazhi Pasqyra) are popular for a reason — the juxtaposition of aquamarine waters and dramatic white cliffs is breathtaking. Tucked below canyon walls, Gjipe is similarly spectacular — and the fact that it can only be reached by boat or on foot helps to keep visitor numbers down. Other low-key stretches on the riviera include 4.3-mile-long Borsh and sleepy Qeparo. As appealing as the beaches are, it would be a shame to visit Albania and ignore the interior. The 'museum cities' of Berat and Gjirokastër are fascinating due to their high concentration of Ottoman houses, their elegant wooden upper storeys jutting out over the narrow streets. Tirana is one of the Balkans' buzziest capitals, a lively hybrid of Ottoman remnants, Communist-era blocks painted in outlandish colours and new construction. If you want to get further off the beaten track, Undiscovered Balkans offers multi-activity Albanian holidays which include hiking, rafting, mule treks and village feasts. (Take a journey through Albania's wild, blue heart.) Best for: foodDespite remarkable mountains, lakes and historic sites, North Macedonia is blissfully unassuming and largely untroubled by overtourism. The town of Ohrid is one of the country's biggest drawcards for its frescoed Orthodox churches, boat trips and lake-fronting boardwalks. But the country's rural areas are a real treat — particularly Mavrovo and Pelister national parks, which lend themselves to leisurely drives stopping at village taverns and roadside produce stalls. Five hundred years of Ottoman rule have had a noticeable impact on the food, which is more varied than most other Western Balkan cuisines and less averse to spice. Ajvar is a case in point. This delicious red pepper and aubergine spread can pack some real heat and is found on the menu at many local restaurants. Grilled meats also feature prominently, as they do throughout the Balkans, but the national dish is vegan: a white bean stew known as tavče gravče. Local markets are packed with mountain herbs, local honeys and tangy hard cheeses, which also make an appearance on rural guesthouse breakfast tables. Be sure to try the local tipples, too. These include mastika (a liqueur flavoured with tree resin) and wines from the Tikveš Plain made from lesser-known regional grape varietals such as Smederevka, Vranec and Temjanika. The region is around 90 minutes south east of the capital Skopje; travellers can while away a day or two here, staying at the Popova Kula winery hotel. (A taste of North Macedonia, from flaky burek to rakija and farmhouse cheeses.) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
8 hours ago
- National Geographic
Why the Balkans should be your next summer destination
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). A complicated region with an extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, Europe's beautiful Balkan lands have been passed through and fought over by civilisations including the Romans, Greeks and Ottomans for more than a millennium. As a result, the term 'Balkans' is one of the slipperiest geographical descriptions in Europe. Broadly speaking it applies to the peninsula that stretches throughout southeastern Europe and ends in Greece. But where it begins — like many things in the Balkans — is a question of politics and perspective. Mainstream travel has been slow to take root in many of the region's countries, but things are gradually starting to change. As beach-holiday destinations go, this coastline is hard to top, offering a winning combination of crystalline coves, ancient settlements and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, all set before a backdrop of craggy mountains. The clear waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas have been drawing admirers to these shores since ancient times, as demonstrated by the remains of sumptuous Roman residences positioned on some of the most beautiful bays. The most famous of these is Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which now forms the heart of Split, Croatia's second-largest city. Some of the Balkan peninsula countries are already firmly on the tourism radar, notably Slovenia, Croatia, Greece and, increasingly, the coastal parts of Montenegro and Albania. The famous walled towns of the coast — such as Dubrovnik in Croatia and Kotor in Montenegro — continue to charm, despite now being crammed with tourists in July and August. But the Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches and crowded coastal cities. Head inland and you'll find a corner of Europe where it's still possible to access real wilderness, with bears, wolves and lynx roaming remote ranges and forgotten forests. To beat the crowds and chase adventure, plan a trip to the smaller, less-explored countries of the Western Balkans. Combined, the five we've highlighted below are roughly the same size as England. With two weeks to spare you could easily get a taste for each. Alternatively, pick just one or two for longer stays. From delicious Mediterranean cuisine to historic towns set to a backdrop of craggy mountains, Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches. Photograph by David C Tomlinson; Getty Images Bosnia and Herzegovina Best for: urban exploration With idyllic settings in river valleys ringed by mountains, Bosnia and Herzegovina's capital Sarajevo and historic centre of Mostar are two of the most beautiful and fascinating cities in the Balkans. Both suffered dreadfully during the 1990s wars and are still divided along ethnic lines, but the historic mosques, churches, synagogues and markets have now been restored and the streets once again hum with life. Sarajevo's old Ottoman core, Baščaršija, is back to being one of the region's most memorable and enchanting city neighbourhoods, where narrow lanes wind past old bazaars and pigeon-filled squares, and the scent of grilled meat, strong Bosnian coffee and shisha smoke swirls in the air. Mostar's famous 16th-century bridge — destroyed in 1993 — has been rebuilt and once more arcs elegantly over the green waters of the Neretva River. It forms the centrepiece of a heritage quarter of stone houses punctuated by the pencil-thin minarets of Ottoman mosques. The historic centre of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the Balkans most fascinating cities. Photograph by Lassi Kurkijarvi; Getty Images (How to spend a perfect weekend in Bosnia & Herzegovina.) Kosovo Best for: adventure Montenegro may be small, but Kosovo is smaller still. Since declaring independence from Serbia in 2008, this little landlocked nation has started to gain a reputation as an active-holiday destination for intrepid travellers. The pretty town of Peja — with its Byzantine and Ottoman architecture — is at the centre of the action. There's excellent hiking, caving and zip-lining in the surrounding area, as well as a vertigo-inducing via ferrata course in Rugova Canyon — but it's all still very off the beaten track for most travellers. Peja lies at the base of the formidable range known as the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Serbian), which forms the border with Montenegro and Albania. This remote area is one of Europe's true wildernesses. It's now possible to take a multiday hike through the rugged terrain, traversing all three countries, on the 119-mile Peaks of the Balkans track. Trekkers stay in a mixture of family homes and mountain huts. This off-the-grid adventure can also be broken into bite-sized chunks, but shouldn't be undertaken lightly. It's best to enlist the services of a local operator such as Undiscovered Balkans or Balkan Natural Adventure to help with guiding and logistics, including arranging the correct permits for the border crossings. (Europe's newest adventure scene is blossoming in southern Kosovo.) Montenegro Best for: diverse landscapes Montenegro is tiny — smaller than Northern Ireland — but it crams a lot in. The 'black mountain' that it's named after rises precipitously from the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, creating a spectacular backdrop to the medieval walls of Kotor town. South east of here, Montenegro's Adriatic coastline stretches barely 62 miles as the crow flies but still manages to pack in three more picture-perfect walled towns: Budva, Sveti Stefan and Ulcinj. Inland it's mainly mountains, punctuated by deep river canyons and glistening lakes. These range from the tiny glacial depressions known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) that are a feature of rugged Durmitor National Park, to the largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar, which is an important habitat for wetland birds including giant Dalmatian pelicans. The everchanging scenery makes driving in Montenegro a constant thrill, especially once you escape the crowded coast. The terrain lends itself to myriad summertime activities: canyoning at Nevidio Canyon on the Komarnica River, whitewater rafting on the Tara River and birdwatching cruises on Lake Skadar, to name just a few. For hiking, base yourself in the mountain towns of Cetinje, Kolašin or Žabljak, which are the gateways to three lofty national parks: Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor. A fourth range, Prokletije, on the border with Albania and Kosovo, is home to Montenegro's highest peak (8,316ft). (The ultimate Adriatic coastal adventure in Montenegro's Bay of Kotor.) The deep river canyons of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro are well-suited for all manner of adventures. Photograph by FotoGablitz; Getty Images Albania Best for: beaches Albania's long and lovely coastline stretches along two separate seas: the Adriatic and the Ionian. The Ionian, in particular, has some magnificent beaches, where the turquoise waters of southwestern Albania approach Caribbean levels of intensity. If you were hoping to chance upon uncrowded and undeveloped bays in Albania, that ship has sailed. The Ionian coast is now being touted as the 'Albanian Riviera' and construction can be seen everywhere, especially in popular places like Ksamil. That said, busy spots such as Mirror Beach (Plazhi Pasqyra) are popular for a reason — the juxtaposition of aquamarine waters and dramatic white cliffs is breathtaking. Tucked below canyon walls, Gjipe is similarly spectacular — and the fact that it can only be reached by boat or on foot helps to keep visitor numbers down. Other low-key stretches on the riviera include 4.3-mile-long Borsh and sleepy Qeparo. As appealing as the beaches are, it would be a shame to visit Albania and ignore the interior. The 'museum cities' of Berat and Gjirokastër are fascinating due to their high concentration of Ottoman houses, their elegant wooden upper storeys jutting out over the narrow streets. Tirana is one of the Balkans' buzziest capitals, a lively hybrid of Ottoman remnants, Communist-era blocks painted in outlandish colours and new construction. If you want to get further off the beaten track, Undiscovered Balkans offers multi-activity Albanian holidays which include hiking, rafting, mule treks and village feasts. (Take a journey through Albania's wild, blue heart.) North Macedonia Best for: food Despite remarkable mountains, lakes and historic sites, North Macedonia is blissfully unassuming and largely untroubled by overtourism. The town of Ohrid is one of the country's biggest drawcards for its frescoed Orthodox churches, boat trips and lake-fronting boardwalks. But the country's rural areas are a real treat — particularly Mavrovo and Pelister national parks, which lend themselves to leisurely drives stopping at village taverns and roadside produce stalls. Five hundred years of Ottoman rule have had a noticeable impact on the food, which is more varied than most other Western Balkan cuisines and less averse to spice. Ajvar is a case in point. This delicious red pepper and aubergine spread can pack some real heat and is found on the menu at many local restaurants. Grilled meats also feature prominently, as they do throughout the Balkans, but the national dish is vegan: a white bean stew known as tavče gravče. Local markets are packed with mountain herbs, local honeys and tangy hard cheeses, which also make an appearance on rural guesthouse breakfast tables. Be sure to try the local tipples, too. These include mastika (a liqueur flavoured with tree resin) and wines from the Tikveš Plain made from lesser-known regional grape varietals such as Smederevka, Vranec and Temjanika. The region is around 90 minutes south east of the capital Skopje; travellers can while away a day or two here, staying at the Popova Kula winery hotel. (A taste of North Macedonia, from flaky burek to rakija and farmhouse cheeses.) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
12 hours ago
- National Geographic
Is this Canadian festival the best place to see grey whales?
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Stand on the western shores of Vancouver Island in March and you'll spot some of British Columbia's most famous visitors. Each spring, thousands of grey whales glide past this stretch of coast on their journey from the warm breeding waters of Mexico to the nutrient-rich waters of Alaska — a round trip of up to 15,000 miles, making it the longest mammal migration on Earth. In the mid-1980s, Brian Congdon, a resident of Ucluelet on the west coast of Vancouver Island, had an idea. He wanted to celebrate this natural spectacle with a home-grown festival, much like those he'd seen in California. Drawing on his experience running a whale-watching tour company, he brought together volunteers and local authorities, devised an events programme and the Pacific Rim Whale Festival was born. Taking place in the coastal towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, as well as throughout the Pacific Rim Reserve, the festival runs for a week at the height of the whale migration (around March every year), with ample opportunity to spot these graceful giants. A busy calendar of events includes panel discussions, wildlife-watching trips and hands-on workshops honouring the traditions of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, for whom the grey whale has long held cultural significance. Though the festival has evolved since Brian first envisioned it more than 30 years ago, its mission remains unchanged: to raise awareness of grey whales and support their long-term protection. The Huu-ay-aht First Nation Community offers village tours for visitors to the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; Photograph by Mark McKeough Festival highlights Naturally, the wonders of the ocean take centre stage. At the Whale Spotting from Shore session at Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, naturalists and marine biologists will be on hand to explain the fascinating behaviour of grey whales, which — with a dash of luck — can be spotted from the coast. But getting out on the open water is the most exhilarating way to see these majestic beasts in action. Local operators offer boat and sea kayak trips off the coast, and whale-watching company Subtidal Adventures runs three-hour Marine Mammal Research Days as part of the festival. On rigid inflatable boat excursions into Barkley Sound, experts will share tips on identifying individual whales and unpick some of the animals' unique behaviours, from lobbing and fluking to breaching — a breathtaking sight on any whale-watching cruise. Spring also marks the herring spawn season, when countless herring lay their eggs off the coast, turning the shallows into a cloudy swirl of turquoise. The spawning is doubly spectacular for the wealth of wildlife it attracts, from hungry seabirds and eagles swooping overhead to seals, sea lions and even black bears, which have been known to graze on the eggs at low tide. Visitors can learn even more about local marine life at the Beach Seine with Ucluelet Aquarium, on Terrace Beach. Using a seine net, aquarium staff carefully catch (and then release) an array of ocean critters — from shallow-dwelling crustaceans to Pacific Ocean perch — demonstrating how the underwater ecosystems connect them. There's plenty on land to enjoy, too. Tofino comes alive with music for the Parade of Whales and Wonder, where local community groups display imaginative ocean-themed floats, while the Maritime Kids Day in Tofino and Ucluelet promise plenty of interactive craft and science sessions for a fun-filled introduction to marine biology. On the final day, Wick Beach in Ucluelet will play host to a morning of family-friendly fun, including the ever-popular Tug-O-Whale challenge, as well as the Nuu-chah-nulth storytelling session, which brings First Nations traditions to life. The Surfrider Foundation Pacific Rim joined the Pacific Rim Whale Festival and organised Coastal Canada Whales Festival beach clean-ups around the shore. Photograph by Andi Wardrop Get involved The Pacific Rim Whale Festival runs two types of event: button events, all of which guests access by purchasing a badge (with a suggested donation for each one), and events that require the purchase of a ticket to attend, which are available from the website under each specific event. These are run on a first come, first served basis, and some — particularly the Marine Mammal Research days — are very popular, so book well in advance. Those keen on helping to organise, marshal or meet-and-greet during the festival can find out more on the 'Volunteering' page. The action mostly takes place between the surfing hotspot of Tofino and laid-back Ucluelet, which are around half-an-hour's drive apart. Most accommodation options can be found in and around each town; try 1970s-inspired Hotel Zed Tofino, or Ucluelet's Snug Harbour Inn, whose fresh and breezy rooms overlook the ocean. When it comes to the weather, March on Vancouver Island can be chilly, with highs of around 12C, and rain showers are common. Events are held in a variety of indoor and outdoor venues, so pack accordingly. Of course, the festival is only part of the appeal in this rugged corner of Vancouver Island. Strike out on the Wild Pacific Trail, a five-mile walking route that twists along the coast around Ucluelet, through craggy cedar forests and around storm-battered lighthouses, or sea kayak around the Broken Group Islands, scattered through Barkley Sound. For a true sense of adventure, escape to Hot Springs Cove — accessible only by boat or floatplane — and swim beneath geothermal waterfalls as they tumble down to the sea. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
