Is this Canadian festival the best place to see grey whales?
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Stand on the western shores of Vancouver Island in March and you'll spot some of British Columbia's most famous visitors. Each spring, thousands of grey whales glide past this stretch of coast on their journey from the warm breeding waters of Mexico to the nutrient-rich waters of Alaska — a round trip of up to 15,000 miles, making it the longest mammal migration on Earth.
In the mid-1980s, Brian Congdon, a resident of Ucluelet on the west coast of Vancouver Island, had an idea. He wanted to celebrate this natural spectacle with a home-grown festival, much like those he'd seen in California. Drawing on his experience running a whale-watching tour company, he brought together volunteers and local authorities, devised an events programme and the Pacific Rim Whale Festival was born.
Taking place in the coastal towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, as well as throughout the Pacific Rim Reserve, the festival runs for a week at the height of the whale migration (around March every year), with ample opportunity to spot these graceful giants. A busy calendar of events includes panel discussions,
wildlife-watching trips and hands-on workshops honouring the traditions of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, for whom the grey whale has long held cultural significance. Though the festival has evolved since Brian first envisioned it more than 30 years ago, its mission remains unchanged: to raise awareness of grey whales and support their long-term protection. The Huu-ay-aht First Nation Community offers village tours for visitors to the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; Photograph by Mark McKeough Festival highlights
Naturally, the wonders of the ocean take centre stage. At the Whale Spotting from Shore session at Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, naturalists and marine biologists will be on hand to explain the fascinating behaviour of grey whales, which — with a dash of luck — can be spotted from the coast.
But getting out on the open water is the most exhilarating way to see these majestic beasts in action. Local operators offer boat and sea kayak trips off the coast, and whale-watching company Subtidal Adventures runs three-hour Marine Mammal Research Days as part of the festival. On rigid inflatable boat excursions into Barkley Sound, experts will share tips on identifying individual whales and unpick some of the animals' unique behaviours, from lobbing and fluking to breaching — a breathtaking sight on any whale-watching cruise.
Spring also marks the herring spawn season, when countless herring lay their eggs off the coast, turning the shallows into a cloudy swirl of turquoise. The spawning is doubly spectacular for the wealth of wildlife it attracts, from hungry seabirds and eagles swooping overhead to seals, sea lions and even black bears, which have been known to graze on the eggs at low tide.
Visitors can learn even more about local marine life at the Beach Seine with Ucluelet Aquarium, on Terrace Beach. Using a seine net, aquarium staff carefully catch (and then release) an array of ocean critters — from shallow-dwelling crustaceans to Pacific Ocean perch — demonstrating how the underwater ecosystems connect them.
There's plenty on land to enjoy, too. Tofino comes alive with music for the Parade of Whales and Wonder, where local community groups display imaginative ocean-themed floats, while the Maritime Kids Day in Tofino and Ucluelet promise plenty of interactive craft and science sessions for a fun-filled introduction to marine biology. On the final day, Wick Beach in Ucluelet will play host to a morning of family-friendly fun, including the ever-popular Tug-O-Whale challenge, as well as the Nuu-chah-nulth storytelling session, which brings First Nations traditions to life. The Surfrider Foundation Pacific Rim joined the Pacific Rim Whale Festival and organised Coastal Canada Whales Festival beach clean-ups around the shore. Photograph by Andi Wardrop Get involved
The Pacific Rim Whale Festival runs two types of event: button events, all of which guests access by purchasing a badge (with a suggested donation for each one), and events that require the purchase of a ticket to attend, which are available from the website under each specific event. These are run on a first come, first served basis, and some — particularly the Marine Mammal Research days — are very popular, so book well in advance. Those keen on helping to organise, marshal or meet-and-greet during the festival can find out more on the 'Volunteering' page.
The action mostly takes place between the surfing hotspot of Tofino and laid-back Ucluelet, which are around half-an-hour's drive apart. Most accommodation options can be found in and around each town; try 1970s-inspired Hotel Zed Tofino, or Ucluelet's Snug Harbour Inn, whose fresh and breezy rooms overlook the ocean.
When it comes to the weather, March on Vancouver Island can be chilly, with highs of around 12C, and rain showers are common. Events are held in a variety of indoor and outdoor venues, so pack accordingly.
Of course, the festival is only part of the appeal in this rugged corner of Vancouver Island. Strike out on the Wild Pacific Trail, a five-mile walking route that twists along the coast around Ucluelet, through craggy cedar forests and around storm-battered lighthouses, or sea kayak around the Broken Group Islands, scattered through Barkley Sound. For a true sense of adventure, escape to Hot Springs Cove — accessible only by boat or floatplane — and swim beneath geothermal waterfalls as they tumble down to the sea. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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(A taste of North Macedonia, from flaky burek to rakija and farmhouse cheeses.) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). A complicated region with an extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, Europe's beautiful Balkan lands have been passed through and fought over by civilisations including the Romans, Greeks and Ottomans for more than a millennium. As a result, the term 'Balkans' is one of the slipperiest geographical descriptions in Europe. Broadly speaking it applies to the peninsula that stretches throughout southeastern Europe and ends in Greece. But where it begins — like many things in the Balkans — is a question of politics and perspective. Mainstream travel has been slow to take root in many of the region's countries, but things are gradually starting to change. As beach-holiday destinations go, this coastline is hard to top, offering a winning combination of crystalline coves, ancient settlements and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, all set before a backdrop of craggy mountains. The clear waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas have been drawing admirers to these shores since ancient times, as demonstrated by the remains of sumptuous Roman residences positioned on some of the most beautiful bays. The most famous of these is Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which now forms the heart of Split, Croatia's second-largest city. Some of the Balkan peninsula countries are already firmly on the tourism radar, notably Slovenia, Croatia, Greece and, increasingly, the coastal parts of Montenegro and Albania. The famous walled towns of the coast — such as Dubrovnik in Croatia and Kotor in Montenegro — continue to charm, despite now being crammed with tourists in July and August. But the Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches and crowded coastal cities. Head inland and you'll find a corner of Europe where it's still possible to access real wilderness, with bears, wolves and lynx roaming remote ranges and forgotten forests. 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Since declaring independence from Serbia in 2008, this little landlocked nation has started to gain a reputation as an active-holiday destination for intrepid travellers. The pretty town of Peja — with its Byzantine and Ottoman architecture — is at the centre of the action. There's excellent hiking, caving and zip-lining in the surrounding area, as well as a vertigo-inducing via ferrata course in Rugova Canyon — but it's all still very off the beaten track for most travellers. Peja lies at the base of the formidable range known as the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Serbian), which forms the border with Montenegro and Albania. This remote area is one of Europe's true wildernesses. It's now possible to take a multiday hike through the rugged terrain, traversing all three countries, on the 119-mile Peaks of the Balkans track. Trekkers stay in a mixture of family homes and mountain huts. This off-the-grid adventure can also be broken into bite-sized chunks, but shouldn't be undertaken lightly. It's best to enlist the services of a local operator such as Undiscovered Balkans or Balkan Natural Adventure to help with guiding and logistics, including arranging the correct permits for the border crossings. (Europe's newest adventure scene is blossoming in southern Kosovo.) Montenegro Best for: diverse landscapes Montenegro is tiny — smaller than Northern Ireland — but it crams a lot in. The 'black mountain' that it's named after rises precipitously from the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, creating a spectacular backdrop to the medieval walls of Kotor town. South east of here, Montenegro's Adriatic coastline stretches barely 62 miles as the crow flies but still manages to pack in three more picture-perfect walled towns: Budva, Sveti Stefan and Ulcinj. Inland it's mainly mountains, punctuated by deep river canyons and glistening lakes. These range from the tiny glacial depressions known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) that are a feature of rugged Durmitor National Park, to the largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar, which is an important habitat for wetland birds including giant Dalmatian pelicans. The everchanging scenery makes driving in Montenegro a constant thrill, especially once you escape the crowded coast. The terrain lends itself to myriad summertime activities: canyoning at Nevidio Canyon on the Komarnica River, whitewater rafting on the Tara River and birdwatching cruises on Lake Skadar, to name just a few. For hiking, base yourself in the mountain towns of Cetinje, Kolašin or Žabljak, which are the gateways to three lofty national parks: Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor. A fourth range, Prokletije, on the border with Albania and Kosovo, is home to Montenegro's highest peak (8,316ft). (The ultimate Adriatic coastal adventure in Montenegro's Bay of Kotor.) The deep river canyons of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro are well-suited for all manner of adventures. Photograph by FotoGablitz; Getty Images Albania Best for: beaches Albania's long and lovely coastline stretches along two separate seas: the Adriatic and the Ionian. The Ionian, in particular, has some magnificent beaches, where the turquoise waters of southwestern Albania approach Caribbean levels of intensity. If you were hoping to chance upon uncrowded and undeveloped bays in Albania, that ship has sailed. The Ionian coast is now being touted as the 'Albanian Riviera' and construction can be seen everywhere, especially in popular places like Ksamil. That said, busy spots such as Mirror Beach (Plazhi Pasqyra) are popular for a reason — the juxtaposition of aquamarine waters and dramatic white cliffs is breathtaking. Tucked below canyon walls, Gjipe is similarly spectacular — and the fact that it can only be reached by boat or on foot helps to keep visitor numbers down. Other low-key stretches on the riviera include 4.3-mile-long Borsh and sleepy Qeparo. As appealing as the beaches are, it would be a shame to visit Albania and ignore the interior. The 'museum cities' of Berat and Gjirokastër are fascinating due to their high concentration of Ottoman houses, their elegant wooden upper storeys jutting out over the narrow streets. Tirana is one of the Balkans' buzziest capitals, a lively hybrid of Ottoman remnants, Communist-era blocks painted in outlandish colours and new construction. If you want to get further off the beaten track, Undiscovered Balkans offers multi-activity Albanian holidays which include hiking, rafting, mule treks and village feasts. (Take a journey through Albania's wild, blue heart.) North Macedonia Best for: food Despite remarkable mountains, lakes and historic sites, North Macedonia is blissfully unassuming and largely untroubled by overtourism. The town of Ohrid is one of the country's biggest drawcards for its frescoed Orthodox churches, boat trips and lake-fronting boardwalks. But the country's rural areas are a real treat — particularly Mavrovo and Pelister national parks, which lend themselves to leisurely drives stopping at village taverns and roadside produce stalls. Five hundred years of Ottoman rule have had a noticeable impact on the food, which is more varied than most other Western Balkan cuisines and less averse to spice. Ajvar is a case in point. This delicious red pepper and aubergine spread can pack some real heat and is found on the menu at many local restaurants. Grilled meats also feature prominently, as they do throughout the Balkans, but the national dish is vegan: a white bean stew known as tavče gravče. Local markets are packed with mountain herbs, local honeys and tangy hard cheeses, which also make an appearance on rural guesthouse breakfast tables. Be sure to try the local tipples, too. These include mastika (a liqueur flavoured with tree resin) and wines from the Tikveš Plain made from lesser-known regional grape varietals such as Smederevka, Vranec and Temjanika. The region is around 90 minutes south east of the capital Skopje; travellers can while away a day or two here, staying at the Popova Kula winery hotel. (A taste of North Macedonia, from flaky burek to rakija and farmhouse cheeses.) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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Is Vancouver Island's Pacific Rim Whale Festival the best place to see grey whales?
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Stand on the western shores of Vancouver Island in March and you'll spot some of British Columbia's most famous visitors. Each spring, thousands of grey whales glide past this stretch of coast on their journey from the warm breeding waters of Mexico to the nutrient-rich waters of Alaska — a round trip of up to 15,000 miles, making it the longest mammal migration on Earth. In the mid-1980s, Brian Congdon, a resident of Ucluelet on the west coast of Vancouver Island, had an idea. He wanted to celebrate this natural spectacle with a home-grown festival, much like those he'd seen in California. Drawing on his experience running a whale-watching tour company, he brought together volunteers and local authorities, devised an events programme and the Pacific Rim Whale Festival was born. Taking place in the coastal towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, as well as throughout the Pacific Rim Reserve, the festival runs for a week at the height of the whale migration (around March every year), with ample opportunity to spot these graceful giants. A busy calendar of events includes panel discussions, wildlife-watching trips and hands-on workshops honouring the traditions of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, for whom the grey whale has long held cultural significance. Though the festival has evolved since Brian first envisioned it more than 30 years ago, its mission remains unchanged: to raise awareness of grey whales and support their long-term protection. Naturally, the wonders of the ocean take centre stage. At the Whale Spotting from Shore session at Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, naturalists and marine biologists will be on hand to explain the fascinating behaviour of grey whales, which — with a dash of luck — can be spotted from the coast. But getting out on the open water is the most exhilarating way to see these majestic beasts in action. Local operators offer boat and sea kayak trips off the coast, and whale-watching company Subtidal Adventures runs three-hour Marine Mammal Research Days as part of the festival. On rigid inflatable boat excursions into Barkley Sound, experts will share tips on identifying individual whales and unpick some of the animals' unique behaviours, from lobbing and fluking to breaching — a breathtaking sight on any whale-watching cruise. Spring also marks the herring spawn season, when countless herring lay their eggs off the coast, turning the shallows into a cloudy swirl of turquoise. The spawning is doubly spectacular for the wealth of wildlife it attracts, from hungry seabirds and eagles swooping overhead to seals, sea lions and even black bears, which have been known to graze on the eggs at low tide. Visitors can learn even more about local marine life at the Beach Seine with Ucluelet Aquarium, on Terrace Beach. Using a seine net, aquarium staff carefully catch (and then release) an array of ocean critters — from shallow-dwelling crustaceans to Pacific Ocean perch — demonstrating how the underwater ecosystems connect them. There's plenty on land to enjoy, too. Tofino comes alive with music for the Parade of Whales and Wonder, where local community groups display imaginative ocean-themed floats, while the Maritime Kids Day in Tofino and Ucluelet promise plenty of interactive craft and science sessions for a fun-filled introduction to marine biology. On the final day, Wick Beach in Ucluelet will play host to a morning of family-friendly fun, including the ever-popular Tug-O-Whale challenge, as well as the Nuu-chah-nulth storytelling session, which brings First Nations traditions to life. The Pacific Rim Whale Festival runs two types of event: button events, all of which guests access by purchasing a badge (with a suggested donation for each one), and events that require the purchase of a ticket to attend, which are available from the website under each specific event. These are run on a first come, first served basis, and some — particularly the Marine Mammal Research days — are very popular, so book well in advance. Those keen on helping to organise, marshal or meet-and-greet during the festival can find out more on the 'Volunteering' page. The action mostly takes place between the surfing hotspot of Tofino and laid-back Ucluelet, which are around half-an-hour's drive apart. Most accommodation options can be found in and around each town; try 1970s-inspired Hotel Zed Tofino, or Ucluelet's Snug Harbour Inn, whose fresh and breezy rooms overlook the ocean. When it comes to the weather, March on Vancouver Island can be chilly, with highs of around 12C, and rain showers are common. Events are held in a variety of indoor and outdoor venues, so pack accordingly. Of course, the festival is only part of the appeal in this rugged corner of Vancouver Island. Strike out on the Wild Pacific Trail, a five-mile walking route that twists along the coast around Ucluelet, through craggy cedar forests and around storm-battered lighthouses, or sea kayak around the Broken Group Islands, scattered through Barkley Sound. For a true sense of adventure, escape to Hot Springs Cove — accessible only by boat or floatplane — and swim beneath geothermal waterfalls as they tumble down to the sea. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
