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Is this Canadian festival the best place to see grey whales?
Is this Canadian festival the best place to see grey whales?

National Geographic

time31-05-2025

  • National Geographic

Is this Canadian festival the best place to see grey whales?

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Stand on the western shores of Vancouver Island in March and you'll spot some of British Columbia's most famous visitors. Each spring, thousands of grey whales glide past this stretch of coast on their journey from the warm breeding waters of Mexico to the nutrient-rich waters of Alaska — a round trip of up to 15,000 miles, making it the longest mammal migration on Earth. In the mid-1980s, Brian Congdon, a resident of Ucluelet on the west coast of Vancouver Island, had an idea. He wanted to celebrate this natural spectacle with a home-grown festival, much like those he'd seen in California. Drawing on his experience running a whale-watching tour company, he brought together volunteers and local authorities, devised an events programme and the Pacific Rim Whale Festival was born. Taking place in the coastal towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, as well as throughout the Pacific Rim Reserve, the festival runs for a week at the height of the whale migration (around March every year), with ample opportunity to spot these graceful giants. A busy calendar of events includes panel discussions, wildlife-watching trips and hands-on workshops honouring the traditions of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, for whom the grey whale has long held cultural significance. Though the festival has evolved since Brian first envisioned it more than 30 years ago, its mission remains unchanged: to raise awareness of grey whales and support their long-term protection. The Huu-ay-aht First Nation Community offers village tours for visitors to the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; Photograph by Mark McKeough Festival highlights Naturally, the wonders of the ocean take centre stage. At the Whale Spotting from Shore session at Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, naturalists and marine biologists will be on hand to explain the fascinating behaviour of grey whales, which — with a dash of luck — can be spotted from the coast. But getting out on the open water is the most exhilarating way to see these majestic beasts in action. Local operators offer boat and sea kayak trips off the coast, and whale-watching company Subtidal Adventures runs three-hour Marine Mammal Research Days as part of the festival. On rigid inflatable boat excursions into Barkley Sound, experts will share tips on identifying individual whales and unpick some of the animals' unique behaviours, from lobbing and fluking to breaching — a breathtaking sight on any whale-watching cruise. Spring also marks the herring spawn season, when countless herring lay their eggs off the coast, turning the shallows into a cloudy swirl of turquoise. The spawning is doubly spectacular for the wealth of wildlife it attracts, from hungry seabirds and eagles swooping overhead to seals, sea lions and even black bears, which have been known to graze on the eggs at low tide. Visitors can learn even more about local marine life at the Beach Seine with Ucluelet Aquarium, on Terrace Beach. Using a seine net, aquarium staff carefully catch (and then release) an array of ocean critters — from shallow-dwelling crustaceans to Pacific Ocean perch — demonstrating how the underwater ecosystems connect them. There's plenty on land to enjoy, too. Tofino comes alive with music for the Parade of Whales and Wonder, where local community groups display imaginative ocean-themed floats, while the Maritime Kids Day in Tofino and Ucluelet promise plenty of interactive craft and science sessions for a fun-filled introduction to marine biology. On the final day, Wick Beach in Ucluelet will play host to a morning of family-friendly fun, including the ever-popular Tug-O-Whale challenge, as well as the Nuu-chah-nulth storytelling session, which brings First Nations traditions to life. The Surfrider Foundation Pacific Rim joined the Pacific Rim Whale Festival and organised Coastal Canada Whales Festival beach clean-ups around the shore. Photograph by Andi Wardrop Get involved The Pacific Rim Whale Festival runs two types of event: button events, all of which guests access by purchasing a badge (with a suggested donation for each one), and events that require the purchase of a ticket to attend, which are available from the website under each specific event. These are run on a first come, first served basis, and some — particularly the Marine Mammal Research days — are very popular, so book well in advance. Those keen on helping to organise, marshal or meet-and-greet during the festival can find out more on the 'Volunteering' page. The action mostly takes place between the surfing hotspot of Tofino and laid-back Ucluelet, which are around half-an-hour's drive apart. Most accommodation options can be found in and around each town; try 1970s-inspired Hotel Zed Tofino, or Ucluelet's Snug Harbour Inn, whose fresh and breezy rooms overlook the ocean. When it comes to the weather, March on Vancouver Island can be chilly, with highs of around 12C, and rain showers are common. Events are held in a variety of indoor and outdoor venues, so pack accordingly. Of course, the festival is only part of the appeal in this rugged corner of Vancouver Island. Strike out on the Wild Pacific Trail, a five-mile walking route that twists along the coast around Ucluelet, through craggy cedar forests and around storm-battered lighthouses, or sea kayak around the Broken Group Islands, scattered through Barkley Sound. For a true sense of adventure, escape to Hot Springs Cove — accessible only by boat or floatplane — and swim beneath geothermal waterfalls as they tumble down to the sea. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

Wind, rain and ruin: Iconic wilderness trails limp into summer after storm season
Wind, rain and ruin: Iconic wilderness trails limp into summer after storm season

National Observer

time20-05-2025

  • Climate
  • National Observer

Wind, rain and ruin: Iconic wilderness trails limp into summer after storm season

Windfalls, landslides and washouts. The iconic West Coast Trail took a serious beating from wild weather this winter — with Parks Canada warning hikers to take extra care navigating the famed hiking route in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on the southwest edge of Vancouver Island. Indigenous Guardians and park crews have been working hard to remove fallen trees and fix walkways, bridges and ladders wrecked by extreme weather, likely aggravated by climate change, said Huu-ay-aht Chief Councillor Sayaač̓atḥ, John Jack. Bouts of intense rainfall and wind along the rugged coastal trail are a routine challenge, but early-season conditions appear worse than usual, Jack said. Guardians have reported that, in just one section of the route, at least 100 trees have come down across the trail. 'This is the first time in a long time that I've seen this many issues pre-season,' Jack said. 'The frequency, and potentially, the severity of weather impacts are worsening with climate change.' The strenuous 75-kilometre trail, which draws thousands of visitors annually, features remote beaches and rainforests with often muddy, wet trekking or scrambling over rocks and up bluffs and ladders. A number of Vancouver Island's top wilderness trails suffered similar damage this year. The 47-kilometre Juan de Fuca Trail further south on the island is closed indefinitely due to storm damage, although some day-use sites remain open. The rugged North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Park is also temporarily closed due to storm damage. Climate change is exacting a toll on BC's iconic West Coast Trail — straining infrastructure and the Indigenous Guardians and crews who caretake it, Huu-ay-hat Chief Councillor Sayaač̓atḥ, John Jack says. Prepare for rough conditions: Parks Canada Liam McNeil, resource conservation manager at Pacific Rim National Park, agreed damage to the trail's infrastructure was significant, in part due to an atmospheric river event in October followed by a bomb cyclone in November. The Guardians and trail crews got out onto the route early and worked very hard to establish some detours and make temporary infrastructure repairs at critical locations to reopen on time in early May for summer — but hikers should plan for additional delays and challenges so they can navigate the route successfully, he said. . 'Hikers planning to come to the West Coast Trail need to be aware that conditions will be more difficult than normal, especially at the start of the season,' McNeil said. The inland route and the cable car to cross Walbran Creek, smack in the middle of the most challenging section of the trail, are out of commission due to the number of downed trees at the location. Hikers can continue along the beach but must wade across the creek to proceed — but should be prepared to wait if tides or heavy rain have swollen the river crossing. 'They may have to wait a day or so for the creek to subside in volume — and unbuckle waist and chest belts on their packs before proceeding with the utmost caution,' McNeil said. Guardians and trail need 'climate-proofing' The Canadian Coast Guard (CCG) pulled lighthouse keepers from the Pachena and Carmanah Point stations along the trail last fall, Jack said. The stations still have automated light systems, but staff were pulled from the sites because the CCG said land surrounding the stations was no longer stable and posed a hazard. However, relocating the stations was not considered. While Guardians provide some measure of safety to hikers along the trail, lighthouse-keepers acted as an extra layer of protection, Jack said. 'With no staff at these lighthouses anymore, they can't help when somebody's hurt. They can't help if some boats on the shore get into trouble,' he said. Though the closure of the lighthouses is not a Parks Canada decision, it's part and parcel of the federal government adequately resourcing the West Coast Trail, he said. 'Damage to the trail is an example of the impact that climate change is having on our day-to-day lives,' he said. As the stewards of the lands and waters in their territory, the Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht and Pacheedaht Trail Guardians partner with the park to maintain the trail, provide cultural insights and assistance to hikers, and protect the environment. Maintenance of trail infrastructure is labour-intensive, and ensuring safety is a shared priority for the Guardians and Parks Canada, Jack said. The Guardians are highly skilled and adaptable but may need more support if the climate impacts continue to drive up maintenance and repairs. As the eyes and ears on the trail, they are in a good position to assess whether more bodies or resources will be needed in coming years, Jack said. 'There's definitely a kind of climate change adaptation and mitigation aspect to this,' he said, noting the Huu-ay-aht, along with other Nuu-chah-nulth Nations and Parks Canada, co-manage the reserve. 'We just need to be aware and be cognizant of the fact that we're going to need to invest as a country in climate mitigation and climate adaptation. And you know, the trail is an example of that.'

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