A jazz club in Johannesburg plays its last songs and laments downtown's decline
Around the corner, popular jazz venue the Marabi Club is hosting its last Friday night show before closing down – another victim of the city center's decay and the jarring inequality in post-apartheid South Africa.
'It's devastating. This is such an iconic space in the inner city and now we have one more reason not to come downtown. It's a true sign of the city's decline,' said Renata Lawton-Misra, 34, a climate change consultant, attending the concert with her husband, Kyle Schutte.
For Schutte, the reasons behind the closure are clear. 'Safety concerns,' said the 38-year-old financial consultant who said he wouldn't normally set foot in the area. Downtown is now known for rampant crime and dilapidated infrastructure after an exodus of white people to the suburbs after the apartheid system of racial segregation ended in 1994. 'True or not, perception is the issue.'
The Marabi Club had been part of a wave of investments designed to reinvigorate downtown, in particular the Maboneng district, about a decade ago. It was founded in 2017 by TJ Steyn, son of the late South African insurance magnate Douw Steyn, and Dale De Ruig.
The club attracted visitors including Jay Z and Beyonce.
'Look at what we created here with amazing food and music,' said waiter Emanuel Mcotheli, pointing to the packed room of mainly Black urban professionals.
The club was named after marabi, a jazz movement that emerged in the 1920s, to honor South Africa's rich musical heritage. Back then, miners and day laborers would congregate downtown and were drawn into illegal shebeens (taverns) by the sound of marabi, repetitive and improvisational keyboard tunes.
The genre gained popularity through bands like the Jazz Maniacs and influential artists such as Hugh Masekela and Miriam Makeba.
'I grew up singing marabi,' said the club's resident vocalist Mbalizethu Siluma, 40, who sings soul and R&B, inviting the snappily dressed guests to dance after dinner.
Despite the attention the club has received, South Africa's strict COVID-19 lockdown severely hit it and other businesses that hoped to reshape parts of downtown Johannesburg. A succession of short-lived mayors, eight in five years, made things worse as essential public works went undone.
The neglect of downtown Johannesburg was exposed to international attention in 2023 when a fire in an overcrowded apartment building left unregulated by authorities killed 76 people.
'We knew it wasn't the perfect place to open a jazz club but we were hopeful that it was on an upward move,' De Ruig told The Associated Press. 'Ultimately, it was a bit of a false start.'
He said the city has provided almost 'almost no support' and basic requests for better lighting, security and cleaning in the area were ignored.
The city's government said it could not comment on the reasons behind a private venue shutting its doors, but spokesperson Nthatisi Modingoane said it was 'unfortunate for the creative economy.'
For Lusanda Netshitenzhe, a member of the steering committee for the Joburg Crisis Alliance, a coalition working to end corruption and improve city government services, the Marabi Club's closing represents a broader issue.
'People unfortunately don't feel safe getting to Maboneng,' Netshitenzhe said. The area 'once celebrated ... is unfortunately no longer doing well due to continued deep systemic issues, poor urban governance and lack of leadership in the city of Johannesburg."
Mayor Dada Morero said in his State of the City address this month that 'drastic times call for drastic measures' and vowed to intensify efforts to revitalize the inner city, including rehabilitating abandoned buildings and installing public lighting.
Any plans for reviving the area come too late for the club and its musicians.
'Maybe there's something better coming … look at how this place is, Marabi isn't dying,' Siluma said before hitting the stage.
De Ruig and his partner are considering moving the club to Steyn City, a gated commercial and residential estate owned by the Steyn family, 32 kilometers (20 miles) north of Johannesburg's city center.
Downtown is left to those who can't afford to leave.
___
More AP Africa news: https://apnews.com/hub/africa
Louise Dewast, The Associated Press
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Refinery29
21 minutes ago
- Refinery29
Tracee Ellis Ross' Solo Traveling Taught Me That I'm My Own Best Travel Partner
I just so happened to be taking my first solo trip at the same time as Tracee Ellis Ross' new series Solo Traveling hit Roku. And it turned out to be divine timing. A weeklong trip to Oaxaca City and Mexico City had been on my vision board for about two years. As an avid traveler, I've always loved Mexico. I became obsessed with everything I had heard about the culture, food and art of these two cities and found myself daydreaming about sipping a mezcalrita at a speakeasy and dancing with a belly full of the country's finest tacos. iIt remained just a dream as I came up with excuses for why I couldn't go just yet — I needed a decent amount of time off from work, a good chunk of disposable income, a snatched waist, and a great travel partner. The list was getting longer and longer. It wasn't until I was at my absolute wit's end and needed a vacation for my mental health's sake that I realized that I'm my own best travel partner. This is the thesis of Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross. Over the course of three episodes, Ross packs viewers in her carry-on as she takes us with her on solo trips to Marrakech, Morocco, Riviera Maya, Mexico and Marbella, Spain. The Girlfriends star is already known for her aspirational life approach, charismatic silliness and all-around majestic aura, but there was something very special about seeing Ross share her solo travel so intimately. Her awkward moments dining alone felt as resonant as the loneliness she's honest about feeling. ' I did exactly what the hell I wanted for eight days straight... It was healing. ' But Ross underscores the curse of constantly waiting for a 'perfect time' in your life to do the things you desire:'So much of what solo travel is about for me [is] not waiting for something in order to walk towards my life, in order to be in my life, in order to experience my life,' she said in Episode 1. As a Black woman solo traveler, there are plenty of factors to take into account. I was heading to a country where I don't know anyone and don't speak the language. When I talked about my travel plans with friends and family, they'd tell me to 'be careful' because of stories of travelers going missing or racism they experienced abroad. I nearly backed out of my trip until I recognized that if I let others project their fears onto me, I'll still end up just dreaming about this trip instead of taking it. So with only mild anxiety and a whole lot of wanderlust, I took a dream vacation by myself. My first stop was Oaxaca City, where I stayed at Grana BNB, a gorgeous former mansion turned bed and breakfast with amazing service in the state's capital. During my visit, Oaxaca was celebrating La Guelaguetza, an annual festival that emphasizes communal reciprocity. And I truly felt their generosity. Daily performances, museums, parades and a hell of a lot of mezcal and mole (the region's signature) kept me busy over the course of 4 days. On the third day, I visited Hierve el Agua for a grueling hike that was absolutely worth it to see one of only two petrified waterfalls in the world. On Friday, I arrived at my accommodations at Hotel Volga for four days in Mexico City. I splurged a bit, treating myself to a more luxurious stay in the city. Located in the bustling Roma Norte, I ended up walking around the neighborhood a lot. I felt as if I was growing taller the more I explored. Even with it being the rainy season, I felt like this trip's timing couldn't have been better. From buying a ticket from a scalper at a Luchadores match to dining solo at the Michelin-starred Pujol, I moved around like the only one granting me permission was me. And that's something I tend to forget at home as calendar invites and imagined responsibilities take control. ' We deserve a life full of wonder, rest, joy and vulnerability. And we deserve to know that the world is our oyster regardless of who is or isn't on life's journey with us. ' My trip felt like jazz. Impromptu, soulful, vibrant and exploratory. I did exactly what the hell I wanted for eight days straight and sometimes that was nothing. It was healing. As Black women, we're constantly checking on others, nurturing our communities and playing maternal roles regardless of if we choose to have children of our own or not. It's overly draining. Ross dropped so many gems in her show. But what stood out to me the most was how much the show uses silence to underscore Ross' time to herself. I found myself sitting in silence a lot. I often opted for the room's AC or rainfall over my headphones. I relished in the quiet. But I also found myself a bit anxious because of it until I got used to it. Then I realized those were the same moments that I was going deeper into myself in ways I couldn't access without travel. At 33, I've had to get real about what my biggest fears actually are. Nowhere on that list is getting lost, hurting myself in another country or getting racist stares. What I fear most is regret that I let anxieties stop me from living the life my heart desires. 'I'm responsible for my own happiness,' Ross said in the show. Black women must remember that for our own sake. We deserve a life full of wonder, rest, joy and vulnerability. And we deserve to know that the world is our oyster regardless of who is or isn't on life's journey with us. Though this was my first international solo trip, it won't be my last. And with Solo Traveling now renewed for a second season, I hope more of us find the courage to stop waiting for others and see that we're our own best travel buddy.
New York Post
2 hours ago
- New York Post
Passengers stuck on a delayed flight to Seattle get an unexpected concert from jazz band
Passengers on a flight from St. Louis to Seattle got an unexpected pick-me-up when jazz saxophonist Dave Koz and bandmates held an impromptu jam session in the aisle while the plane was stuck on the tarmac hundreds of miles from their final destination. It happened Aug. 11, when Koz and fellow musicians on the Dave Koz & Friends Summer Horns Tour were headed to Seattle for two days of shows. What was supposed to be a direct flight was beset by delays, including having to divert to Boise, Idaho, after flight crew members timed out and needed to be relieved, and the plane encountered a mechanical issue, Koz said Tuesday. Advertisement Passengers on a flight from St. Louis to Seattle got an unexpected pick-me-up when jazz saxophonist Dave Koz and bandmates held an impromptu jam session in the aisle. AP This wasn't the first delay the band experienced since its tour started around mid-July, and it even had to cancel two shows because of travel-related issues, Koz said. But the delay last week was particularly deflating, not just for the musicians but for everyone on the plane. 'You could just feel the energy. Everybody was so frustrated,' Koz said. Advertisement A flight attendant who saw the musicians bring their instruments on board asked if they'd be willing to play a song while they were stuck in Boise. A video of them performing Stevie Wonder's 'You Haven't Done Nothin'' — the closer to their show — went viral on social media. It shows Koz and fellow saxophone player Marcus Anderson grooving in the aisle with other horn players behind them, and Jeff Bradshaw on trombone getting creative to play the large instrument between seats. A flight attendant who saw the musicians bring their instruments on board asked if they'd be willing to play a song while they were stuck in Boise, according to reports. AP Passengers are seen smiling and swaying in their seats, with some recording the performance on their phones. Advertisement Anderson said it felt good to lift spirits, though Koz admitted being nervous that some passengers might not like 'horns playing in people's ears.' Anderson likened the feeling afterward to that of a great workout at the gym. The musicians never thought about the possibility of going viral, he said. 'It was just doing something good for the people.' Advertisement They performed just the one song, but they knew that was enough. 'It just was right, and it brought everybody together in a way that was very special,' Koz said. 'I'll remember that moment for the rest of my life.'
New York Post
2 hours ago
- New York Post
Hundreds of historic tall ships arrive in Amsterdam for maritime festival
AMSTERDAM (AP) — Crowds packed vantage points along a major canal Wednesday to watch a flotilla of hundreds of historic ships sail into Amsterdam at the start of a five-day festival celebrating the Dutch capital's maritime history. Ships from all over the world, many with their masts and rigging decorated with flags, left the North Sea coastal town of IJmuiden to begin their hours-long journey up the North Sea Canal and into Amsterdam's IJ waterway for SAIL 2025, the first edition in a decade. A puff of orange smoke erupted into the sky, and ships' horns sounded as the replica three-masted clipper Stad Amsterdam passed through a lock to mark the official start of the event. Advertisement 6 Crowds packed vantage points along a major canal on Wednesday to watch a flotilla of hundreds of historic ships sail into Amsterdam at the start of a five-day festival. Hollandse Hoogte/Shutterstock 6 The festival is to celebrate the Dutch capital's maritime history. AP 6 Orange smoke signals the start of the parade of hundreds of tall ships sailing into the Dutch capital's harbor. AP Each ship is greeted with two cannon shots and its country's national anthem as it enters the harbor. Advertisement Hundreds of smaller boats with onlookers packed the waterways to sail alongside the visiting vessels. The event, which draws hundreds of thousands of visitors, is held every five years. The 2020 edition was canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Advertisement 6 The barkentine Antigua passes as hundreds of tall ships sailed into the Dutch capital's harbor for the 10th edition of SAIL. AP 6 Ships from all over the world, many with their masts and rigging decorated with flags, left the North Sea coastal town of IJmuiden to begin their hours-long journey up the North Sea Canal and into Amsterdam's IJ waterway for SAIL 2025, according to reports. AP 6 The ships will remain in Amsterdam, many open for visitors, through the weekend. AP Wednesday's parade culminates in an evening fireworks display. Advertisement The ships will remain in Amsterdam, many open for visitors, through the weekend. The first event was first held in 1975 to celebrate Amsterdam's 700th anniversary, and this year's edition coincides with the city's 750th birthday.
