An Early Look At 21 Watches From 16 Brands At 2025 Watches And Wonders

Forbes

01-04-2025

Reservoir x Popeye Golf
The 2025 Watches and Wonders watch fair is set to begin and independent brands have come out strong with new models and reimagined classic pieces. A couple major themes among the early watch releases are bright, bold colors and skeletonized designs.
Angelus chrono Télémètre
The Angelus limited edition Chronographe Télémètre is being released in two sets of 25 steel timepieces and an additional 15 pieces in 18k yellow gold. The 37mm timepiece has a vintage-inspired dial and a mono-pusher set into the winding crown for short-interval timekeeping.
The telemeter is one of the measurement scales that are linked to a chronograph's sweep seconds, a category that also includes pulsometers, tachymeters, decimal scales, fixed or rotating countdown scales, and asthmometers (the latter being a specialty of Angelus). Telemeters are used to measure the distance of an event. The chronograph is started when the event is seen, then stopped when it is heard. The scale is finely graduated in kilometers and corresponds to the duration divided by the speed of sound (approximately 1,240 km/h).
The dials are available in three colors described by Angelus as rose-bronze, gray-titanium grey and for the yellow gold timepiece, white-nickel. The satin-finished flange echoes the finish of the case and contrasts with the grained effect in the center of the dials. The small seconds and 30-minute totalizer counters are snailed, while the appliqué hour-markers and Arabic numerals have been given either a black treatment or a 3N gold finish.
The Chronographe Télémètre is powered by the hand-wound in-house A5000 caliber with a 42-hour power reserve, a small second subdial at 9 o'clock and a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o'clock. The A5000 has a slim profile of 4.20mm and a diameter of 24mm.
Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium blue alligator strap
The Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium collection plays with the tension between the circle and openworked craftsmanship, the watch brand said. The contemporary case, consisting of a carbon composite container surrounded by a titanium case middle with a notched bezel. Inside, Angelus installed a new hand-wound movement, the A-310 caliber, equipped with a flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock. The skeletonized dial display reveals large Arabic numerals that float between the sapphire crystal and the PVD-treated bridges. The inaugural version is clad in blue, from the movement to the flange and the interchangeable alligator-leather and rubber straps.
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance
This timepiece is powered by the ARF22 caliber, Armin Strom's 18th in-house movement. It has two balance wheels that oscillate in resonance, featuring its patented clutch mechanism that allows their vibrations to synchronize and regulate one another, ensuring accuracy.
It consists of 231 components and operates at 25,200 vibrations per hour, delivering a 42-hour power reserve. The GMT function of the timepiece features two independent displays, each with its own day-night indicator. In addition, the independently adjustable hour and minute hands allows the user to set time zones that deviate from GMT by fractional hours.
The two dials feature a black grenage, a 19th century technique that results in a frost-like finish. The dial and movement are housed in a 39mm stainless steel case.
Armin Strom Orbit Purple
Armin Strom says it has created the world's first on-demand pointer-date on a bezel with the Orbit Purple.
The purple fumé dial finish shifts from a vivid purple center to darker edges. The purple date pointer and the date on the ceramic bezel match the dial's color. A 43.4mm black DLC-coated case and rugged black textile strap complete the overall appearance.
Fully hand-finished, the Orbit Purple is limited to 20 pieces.
The Charriol St. Tropez collection
The Swiss women's lifestyle brand is presenting several new models from its Mariner, Navigator Cruise and St. Tropez collections. It includes the St. Tropez with guilloché mother-of-pearl dials that the company says is evocative of the mood and sparkle of the sea. The design creates a kaleidoscope effect that recalls the Saint-Tropez of Bardot's era. It's available in the original 25mm diameter size and in the 30mm model with a 3-hands Swiss quartz movement.
Chronoswiss Q-Repeater Scream
Among the releases this year for Chronoswiss the Q-Repeater Scream and Q-Repeater Blue Note standout. Both skeleton watches have a Grade 5 titanium case that houses skeletonized dials. A pusher at 10 o'clock activates the quarter repeater function. The watches are powered by a legacy movement, first used in the 1990s, which was restored refined, and reborn.
The Q-Repeater Scream is described by the brand as 'a wild, untamed spectacle.' The CVD-coated bridges in electric blue, orange, and purple hold the 'Paraiba green' minute ring, the floating hour, and the small seconds rings.
Chronoswiss Q Repeater Blue Note
Meanwhile, the Q-Repeater Blue Note is described as having a more refined and elegant chime, inspired by jazz and blues. The navy-blue CVD-coated skeletonized dial and bridges which are part of the movement, play on contrasts with a silver hour ring and luminous white Super-LumiNova markers.
Czapek is honoring its 10th anniversary with the Antarctique Tourbillon powered by the watch brand's in-house Caliber 9 with a flying tourbillon regulator. The watch features a new guilloché pattern on the dial and an updated case design. This launch also coincides with the 180th anniversary of the namesake watchmaking house founded in 1845 by François Czapek.
The Czapek Caliber 9 in-house movement reveals an openworked flying tourbillon, gear train and barrel on the dial side, aligned on the vertical axis, which the company says makes it appear 'as airy and light as possible.' The open-worked flying tourbillon is connected to the gear train in the center of the dial beneath a long and curved minutes bridge. The barrel dominates the upper section of the dial in an aperture beneath an open-worked bridge.
Czapek & Cie Antarctique Tourbillon 'Secret Alloy'
The Caliber 9 is the first Czapek movement designed, conceived and constructed in-house; and also machined mostly in-house. However, Xavier de Roquemaurel, Czapek CEO, says the company will always defend the principle of 'établissage,' established Swiss manufacturers skilled in producing certain watch components. 'We want freedom—hence the capacity to produce elements in-house. But we don't want to make everything ourselves. For us, freedom also means the ability to choose and collaborate with the best specialist partners in any given area. That is what enables us to maintain agility and independence.'
The new trompe l'oeil guilloché design presents a pattern that gives the illusion of infinite depth. Czapek named this pattern Singularité, from the astronomical term singularity, meaning those places in the universe where the standard laws of physics break down, making space and time infinite and undifferentiated.
The 40.5mm stainless steel case has been redesigned to echo the curvilinear aesthetic of the mechanism and dial. The front and back sapphire crystals have been slightly raised. On the reverse side, this creates the impression that there is no bezel. The engravings that would normally appear on a caseback bezel are done inside the crystal.
The watch is completed with an integrated stainless-steel bracelet.
The Antarctique Tourbillon is offered in a choice of three dial colors: Glacier Blue, Photon Sphere (a 5N gold hue), and a grey 'Secret Alloy' limited to 50 pieces.
Frederique Constant and Watch Angels Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition
Frederique Constant has partnered with Watch Angels, a watch manufacturer and collector community, to produce the 40mm Worldtimer Manufacture. This unique timepiece, powered by the Frederique Constant in-house FC-718 world time movement, has been designed for early adopters and marks an evolution of the classic Frederique Constant 42mm Worldtimer.
This new version presents a smaller case that both parties say is more streamlined and elegant. It's designed to cater to the preferences and wearability expectations of the Watch Angels watch collector community.
The blue dial features a sunburst finishing and minute track with circular graining finishing, rhodium applied indexes and a two-tone 24-hour disc with 24 cities and day and night indicators.
The FC-718 in-house caliber automatic movement has a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is limited to 718 pieces.
Hautlence Red Passion Linear Series 3
This bright red timepiece from Hautlence has many of the signature details from the innovative watch brand including the rectangular case, linear jumping hours and a flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock, whose movement also can be viewed through its black skeletonized bridge.
The dial is constructed on several levels. An additional tinted sapphire dial featuring the minute numerals sits on top of the base dial with a vertical satin finish.
The watch is powered by the in-house caliber D50 automatic movement. It comprises 239 components, oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hertz and offers a power reserve of 72 hours.
Hermés Arceau L'heure de la lune Vesta
The Arceau L'heure de la lune watch first unveiled in 2019 now comes in three new versions presented in a 12-piece limited-edition set.
The mobile counters displaying the time and date gravitate around the dial over a period of 59 days, gradually revealing the moon discs. This rotating celestial theme is created by a 117-component Hermès module featuring a simultaneous display of the moon phases for the Northern and Southern hemispheres. A Pegasus drawn from artist Dimitri Rybaltchenko's 'Full Moon' motif adorns one of the moons on each of the models.
The three models feature two-tone looks, with cases and lugs made from different materials and hour-markers matching their dials. The dial of each watch is made of a specific meteorite. The version in white gold and blue titanium has a piece of lunar rock. The second iteration in rose gold and titanium features a dial composed of a fragment from one of the largest known asteroids: Vesta. The third interpretation in white and rose gold is adorned with a fragment of Erg Chech meteorite, believed to be the oldest known volcanic rock on Earth.
Each of these timepieces comes with a matt alligator leather strap crafted in accordance with Hermès leatherworking skills: abyss blue for the white gold and blue titanium version; graphite for the other two.
Hermés Arceau Le Temps Voyageur Or Blanc
This travel timepiece is available in white and rose gold. It uses a circular disc displaying 24 time zones and indicating the home time at 12 o'clock, while a mobile counter shows local time. This mechanism is driven by an exclusive 122-component module integrated into the Manufacture Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement.
The 41mm white gold version features a grey-blue lacquered dial, enhanced by a navy-blue city disc and blue-varnished openworked hands. It is paired with an abyss blue alligator strap.
The 38mm rose gold version set with 78 diamonds features the world map on a natural mother-of-pearl dial. Rose gold edging highlights the contours of the opaline champagne-toned continents, cities and city aperture, while rose gold leaf-shaped hands set the finishing touch, complemented by a pearl grey alligator strap.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue
This is a recreation of a 2016 model by the watchmaker. The dial presents an interpretation of the Earth at night with the continents cloaked in opaque blue enamel, elevated by specks of enameled gold.
The outer ring of the dial is hand-finished with a circular satin-brushed surface in slate grey. The three-dimensional aspect of the dial is further enhanced by the drop-shaped indices, whose tips extend beyond the circle, appearing to be suspended above the globe.
Two pushers on the left side of the 41mm 18k white gold case allow the local time, displayed by the central hour hand, to be adjusted. When changing time zones, this central hour hand can be moved forwards or backwards in one-hour increments with a press. The upper pusher advances the hand by one hour, while the lower pusher moves it back without altering the position of the minute hand.
The Classic Traveller is powered by the LF 230.02 automatic caliber, incorporating the dual time zone mechanism and date function. It features an automatic winding system with unidirectional pawl-fitted micro-rotor, enhanced by a double direct-impulse natural escapement. This escapement delivers two direct impulses to the balance with each oscillation, ensuring efficiency and a 72-hour power reserve.
Laurent Ferrier timepieces are distinguished by the high watchmaking decoration and finishes of the movement and the Classic Traveller is no different. It includes rhodium-plated Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and circular graining on the main plate, hand-bevelled edges and hand-polished screw heads. These and other finishes exemplify the values of traditional watchmaking by Ferrier.
Louis Monet Impulsion Titanium Onyx
This timepiece combines a chronograph with a tourbillon with the chronograph mechanism entirely visible on the dial. A single pusher activates the chronograph hand, which ticks away the seconds as it glides over the rotating flying tourbillon, whose off-center cage does one revolution per minute.
All functions and complications are powered by the in-house Memoris hand-wound double-barrel caliber with column wheel, classic horizontal clutch and a 96-hour power reserve.
The movement and dial are housed inside a custom-designed 42.50mm grade 5 titanium case. The case is composed of four distinct elements: two lateral sections, a case back and a bezel. The case core is tinted in deep black, echoing the onyx featured behind the tourbillon cage and along its sides.
MeisterSinger X Alain Silberstein Kaenos Grand Date
German watchmaker, MeisterSinger, which specializes in one-hand watches, has teamed with watch designer, Alain Silberstein, to create a unique interpretation of the MeisterSinger Kaenos timepiece.
Together they produced two watches from its Kaenos collection in a redesigned 40mm case with an integrated stainless-steel bracelet.
Silberstein—known for creating watches with contemporary, extravagant and colorful designs—chose to make his mark in small details for this collaboration. For example, he reinterpreted the MeisterSinger distinctive hour hand and remade it into a bright red triangular shaped hand. Silberstein also added a small gold-colored second hand. Applied hour markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock are gold-colored as well.
In addition, Silberstein replaced the quarter-hour markers on the outer dial with fine dots. The MeisterSinger logo appears a silver-colored with a three-dimensional look. A golden, recessed inner circle on the Grand Date and the framed, rectangular date window at 6 o'clock are additional features. In the Open Date version, the date ring is completely exposed.
The rotor, visible through the glass exhibition caseback, matches the black and gold colors of the dial.
Both editions of the watches are limited to 225 pieces and come with specially designed packaging and booklet.
It's one of several new Kaenos watches that MeisterSinger will unveil at Watches and Wonders.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36MM Automatic Stone Blue
The 'stone blue' dial of the Tonda PF 36MM, used by the brand for the first time in a two-hand watch, is inspired by Le Corbusier's architectural palette.
The blue dial is enriched by finely guilloché in a Grain d'Orge motif that captures light to create subtle plays of reflection. The dial blends with the knurled platinum bezel encircling the 36mm stainless steel case. Hand-applied rhodium-plated gold indexes add a touch of refinement.
The watch is powered by the PF770 automatic in-house movement with a 60-hour power reserve.
The Royale Paris by Pequignet
This new watch from the French watchmaker has updated finishes for the case, dial, bezel and hands but still contains the same movement that has been used for Royale Paris since it was first release in 2011.
This new model comes in two variants: A day-date-moonphase version available in opaline, royal blue and green; and a power reserve small seconds version available in two colors: opaline and royal blue.
For the first time, the moon is stylized in its two hemispheres: north and south.
The case of the new Royale Paris has been reworked. First, it's reduced to 39.5 mm 41 mm. Its profile now features a concave hollow that runs around the entire perimeter of the dial. The bezel has been slimmed to 0.75mm. The case thickness is unchanged to accommodate the caliber royal movement.
The caliber royal automatic in-house movement features a single large barrel that offers an improved power reserve, now reaching 96 hours, from 88 hours. The power reserve is displayed at 8 o'clock. All the movement components are sourced from within 50 miles of the manufacture. Pequignet says the movement undergoes rigorous testing to achieve chronometric precision, with the daily amplitude of operation being between -4 and +6 seconds. This guarantees an average of +2 or -2 seconds per day.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
It took nearly two decades for Raymond Weil to make significant changes to its signature Freelancer collection, unveiling for the first time a full calendar and a skeletonized version.
The freelancer Complete Calendar available in two references, 2766-PC5-64001 and 2766-ST-50001, presents the day, date, month and moonphase inside a 40mm case.
The reference 2766-PC5-64001 has a rose gold PVD-coated stainless steel case and a sunray silver dial with warm hues, accentuated by rose gold-plated indexes. There's also a celestial display inspired by a NASA image, adding a poetic dimension while underscoring the complication's refinement. Meanwhile, the 2766-ST-50001 reference, with its stainless-steel case and sunray blue dial, is accentuated by nickel-plated applied indexes. Both references are powered by the RW3281 automatic movement with a 56-hour power reserve.
Raymond Weil Freelancer reference 2795-BKC-20000
The reference 2795-BKC-20000 has a square stainless-steel case with a black PVD coating and a black galvanic openworked dial. Complemented by a black leather strap and limited to 500 pieces, this edition leans decisively toward a contemporary and sporty aesthetic.
This watch is powered by the RW1212 proprietary caliber, developed in-house and unveiled in 2007. The automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve remains an important part of Raymond Weil's watchmaking heritage. It was developed in collaboration with the Sellita watch movement company.
Reservoir Popeye Golf watch with wooden collector's box and a customized golf ball
This watch features an unusual pairing of golf and comic book nostalgia with Reservoir using its signature retrograde minute display as a golf club that sweeps across the dial, swung by the well-known comic character, Popeye.
The watch face features an artful depiction of Popeye in mid-swing, capturing his brawn, determination, and humor set against a vivid golf course backdrop. This limited-edition timepiece will certainly turn heads at Watches and Wonders.
The comic dial display is housed in a 41.5mm stainless steel case and paired with a brown nubuck leather strap with green stitching and green edge paint.
The functions and complications, including the retrograde minute display as a golf club is powered by the Swiss-made RSV-240 caliber featuring a patented 113-piece module that delivers a 56-hour power reserve. The automatic movement can be viewed through an open caseback.
The watch is limited to 300 numbered pieces and comes with a white wooden collector's box with an illustration of The Popeye Family and a customized golf ball featuring the Reservoir Watch logo and a Popeye print.
Ressence Type 7 Sports Chic GMT
Housed in a 41mm Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet, the Type 7 has Ressence's signature oil filled dial creates an illusion of time projected directly onto the sapphire crystal. It's available in two editions: Night Blue and XV Aquamarine (a limited edition celebrating Ressence's 15-year anniversary).
It's the first watch by Ressence with a GMT complication. It is powered by the patented ROCS 7 movement, which uses a magnetic transmission system to deliver a 'fluid way to experience time.'
The Ressence Compression Lock System (RCLS) makes the watch durable and water resistant to 5 ATM.
The Night Blue edition includes a ceramic bezel, while the XV Aquamarine, limited to 80 pieces, boasts lightweight aluminum.
Watches and Wonders begins Tuesday and runs till April 7.