Gaia Series 88: Fight for "the best in the gastronomic world"!

CNA

2 days ago

Japan's top young chef leads a determined culinary team to the Bocuse d'Or, facing fierce global rivals and unrelenting pressure.
In the heart of Lyon, a city synonymous with haute cuisine, the world's most prestigious culinary tournament, the Bocuse d'Or, ignites fierce competition every two years. Dubbed the World Culinary Cup, it gathers 24 top teams, each having survived gruelling national qualifiers to earn their place in what is often likened to the Olympics of gastronomy. This year, all eyes are on Japan's representative, 31-year-old sous-chef Ryuya Kainuma, as he carries the hopes of a nation that has yet to clinch the coveted crown.
Kainuma, originally from Niigata, works at Sens et Saveur, a high-end French restaurant on the 35th floor of the Marunouchi Building in Tokyo. He has spent 10 years honing his culinary skills and emerged as Japan's contender after winning the domestic qualifier in November 2023. 'To me, competing globally through food is so awesome,' he says. 'To have world-famous chefs taste my food is the kind of opportunity this competition offers.'
He is joined by 22-year-old commis chef Minami Fujita. 'There's a lot of pressure. I mean, I'm representing Japan,' she says during preparations. 'I'm carrying Japan on my back.' Their pairing has been described as the 'strongest Team JAPAN in history,' a testament to the talent, ambition and depth of support backing their campaign.
Despite its longstanding involvement in the contest since 1987, Japan has only made it to the podium once, in 2013, finishing third. The stakes today extend beyond the kitchen, with a potential win likely to bolster Japan's international culinary reputation and drive inbound tourism. 'It's become a competition to attract inbound tourists,' says Hajime Yoneda, who serves as Team JAPAN's head coach and previously judged the competition. 'Winning at a global culinary competition like the Bocuse d'Or could become one of the factors people use to decide where to go.'
Under Yoneda's guidance, Kainuma trains rigorously. He travels to Osaka to experience three-star service at Yoneda's own restaurant, HAJIME, which earned its Michelin status in just one year and five months. 'Through my experience at a three-star restaurant, I rediscovered the passion I had in my youth,' says Kainuma. 'Cooking for the customer's delight. That's the heart of my job.' He adds, 'I don't see them as judges anymore. To me, they're guests I'm serving food to.'
Assisting the team are prominent chefs such as Noriyuki Hamada, who led Japan's 2013 bronze-winning campaign, and Tetsuya Asano, already named Japan's representative for 2027. They also receive support from Kenichiro Sekiya of Joel Robuchon and Kotaro Hasegawa, who placed sixth in 2007. However, funding remains a concern. 'The members of Team JAPAN are participating without pay,' the programme notes, a contrast to Denmark, where the national team trains with a budget of ¥100 million (S$860,000) and receives salaries and housing.
Japan's theme for the large meat platter is 'The Connection of Life,' which incorporates forest elements. The design is led by Yuji Tokuda of Canaria, a multi-award-winning designer. However, the first tasting of the meat dish, which includes venison and foie gras wrapped in pastry, ends poorly. 'Personally, I think it's close to zero,' says Yoneda. 'You really need to work out what refinement means or you won't be able to reach the top ranks.'
Kainuma acknowledges the challenge. 'I don't think there's such a thing as 'complete' in this,' he says. 'When cooking, you always think, 'Maybe I could take it further.' Bit by bit, you level up.' As the final competition nears, the team relocates to Vaux-en-Beaujolais, an hour from Lyon, for a two-week training camp. Simulated time trials initially run two hours over the official limit. Romain Barthes, the local restaurant's chef, notes, 'The pie crust is too thick and loses its delicacy.'
But adjustments pay off. Fujita uses multiple timers to manage overlapping tasks. Kainuma refines the fish dish, using sesame and other elements to improve both look and flavour. 'We're back on schedule, so no need to rush,' he says. 'We're totally fine.' The final time trial is a success. 'This was the first time it truly looked and tasted like a proper dish,' he says with visible relief.
On 25 January, the Bocuse d'Or opens with much fanfare. Japan begins cooking at 8am. Thirty minutes in, their sous vide machine breaks. 'Oh no!' Kainuma exclaims, quickly directing his team to boil water manually. 'You can add the apples now,' he instructs. The delay puts them ten minutes behind schedule, but the fish dish is completed on the dot. Judges praise its taste and presentation. 'Beautiful fluffy lobster sauvignon. Very, very, very tasty.' The meat dish, which evokes a forest scene, is also completed within the limit.
When the results are announced, Sweden takes third place and Denmark second. France's Paul Marcon, son of 1995 champion Regis Marcon, claims first, making them the first parent-child pair to win the title. Japan places 11th overall. However, their fish dish ranks fourth, beating Denmark's, with 787 points. The meat dish scores 700 due to issues with temperature control before serving.
'It's frustrating,' Kainuma admits. 'But thanks to the advice I received from so many chefs, I now think about cooking from all kinds of angles.' He adds, 'My goal is still three Michelin stars. So I'll start again from scratch and learn a lot.'