French farmer bets on camel milk in camembert country
In a small village in northern France, where cows have grazed green pastures for as long as anyone can remember, one farmer has defied national traditions by producing camel milk and cheese.
The tall, gangly silhouettes of Julien Job's herd of 80 camels and dromedaries – one of the largest in Europe – make for an unusual sight in a country globally renowned for its cow and goat milk cheeses.
"You have to like the unknown," said Job, 43, who used to transport animals for zoos and circuses before opening his farm, La Camelerie, in the village of Feignies in 2015.
Job was the first farmer in France to obtain approval from European Union health agencies to commercialise camel milk and dairy products.
But demand for camel milk is growing as its ecological and health benefits become better known.
Job milking one of the camels on his farm.
Containing up to five times more iron than cow's milk, it is non-allergenic and some studies have suggested that it has immune-boosting and anti-inflammatory properties.
On its website, La Camelerie offers pasteurised camel milk, kefir (fermented milk) and sometimes "Bosse des Fagnes" and "Camelhoumi" – two cheeses developed with the support of researchers that earned Job a medal at the 2024 World Cheese Awards in Kazakhstan.
Camel milk is highly perishable and pasteurisation is essential to bringing it to wider markets.
The milk is richer in vitamin C than cow's milk, easier to digest for lactose-intolerant people and high in unsaturated fatty acids.
Some studies are also exploring its potential effects on cancer cells, blood sugar regulation in diabetics and autism.
"There is a mix of myths, empirical observations and scientific truths around this milk," said Bernard Faye, a researcher at the French Agricultural Research Centre for International Development.
Camel milk has traditionally been produced by nomads in arid or semi-desert regions and reserved for their own consumption.
But in recent decades, farms have appeared in Gulf countries and global demand has surged, up more than 8% year-on-year in Europe.
With climate change, new countries are also turning to camel farming, from sub-Saharan Africa to the United States.
Camels can live off poor vegetation and consume much less than a cow of the same weight. And because they have no hooves, they cause less damage to the soil.
They can also be used in ecological grazing to clear pastures.
"It is one of the only animal species that survives between -40°C and 40°C," says Christian Schoettl, president of the French Federation for the Development of Camelids.
Job's farm also offers camel rides to tourists.
The camels of Feignies display beautiful humps that tend to be fatter than those of desert camels.
The only potential issue is humidity – a problem that Job addressed by administering de-wormers more often than he would for cattle.
At €17 (RM84) per litre, camel milk remains a luxury product unlikely to replace cow milk anytime soon.
Making cheese from camel milk also requires large quantities of liquid, and its consumption is expected to remain even more marginal for the time being.
"A female camel produces two to three litres per day, every other year," Job said, or about 10 times less than a Norman cow.
Job has found a workaround, earning his income from selling milk but also tourism – offering camel rides – and from selling the young male camels. – AFP
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