Once a quarry, now a village
Quarry-turned-village attracts hipsters with unique cliffside houses, hidden eateries in alleyways
A row of houses sits perched on a rocky cliff, squeezed between large boulders, creating a stunning landscape that contrasts from the dense cluster of Seoul's typical apartment and office buildings.
Changsin-dong Cliff Village is a distinctive residential area that lies 125 meters above sea level on Naksan, one of the mountains in inner Seoul, along which still stands remnants of a fortress from the Joseon era.
The village's history traces back to the Japanese colonization of the Korean Peninsula (1910-1945), when Seoul witnessed a surge in new building constructions by the colonizers.
From the early years of colonial rule until the late 1920s, the Japanese government established several state-run quarries in Changsin-dong to extract stone. The granite mined here was used in the construction of iconic structures, including the old Seoul Station, the headquarters of the Bank of Korea, the former Seoul City Hall and the Japanese Government-General of Korea building.
The quarries continued operation until the early 1960s. After they ceased operations, impoverished urban migrants began building homes on the abandoned quarry site, gradually turning the area into a village that is now regarded as among Seoul's unique neighborhoods.
Irregular in shape, the houses sitting on the cliffs may seem to be perched precariously from a distance, but up close, the rock beneath them appears to provide solid support.
Beneath the cliffs lies another village, the distinctive vibes of which make it a popular filming location. Featuring tightly clustered multifamily homes, many of the houses — constructed between large rocks in the past — have mismatched proportions. This village has been featured in several Korean productions, including popular tvN series 'Guardian: The Lonely and Great God' and hit romance film 'Architecture 101.'
Once hub of sewing industry
Changsin-dong was once a bustling sewing town, with bikes constantly moving materials and clothes to and from small fabric factories.
The secondhand clothing trade, through which the new settlers in Changsin-dong made a living, expanded into large sewing factories, turning the area into a production base for nearby wholesale clothing markets like Pyounghwa Market in Dongdaemun, the biggest wholesale clothing market in Korea.
Amid the explosive growth of the country's garment industry and large shopping malls, Changsin-dong enjoyed the heyday of its sewing industry until the 1990s, but as the industry shifted to lower-wage China and Southeast Asian countries in the mid-2000s, the village began to face a swift downturn.
Late last year, the Seoul Metropolitan Government announced a redevelopment plan for Changsin-dong and nearby Sungin-dong, both considered to be among the city's most underdeveloped areas. The project will include the construction of a 6,400-unit residential complex, city officials said.
Changsin-dong Cliff Village is famous among locals for its views of Namsan, thanks to its geographical advantage of being located on the northeastern side of Seoul's central mountain.
With trendy cafes and restaurants emerging in the village to take advantage of its scenic views, Changsin-dong has begun to attract younger crowds in recent years.
Hong Ji-eun, who was visiting a dessert cafe in the village on Monday afternoon, said, "It's a peaceful spot to relax while enjoying the city view.'
While strolling through the village, visitors may come across a cavelike building housing a children's playground known as 'Sanmaru.'
Inside is a large jungle gym. Walking along the gentle slope surrounding it and visitors eventually reach the top to enjoy a panoramic view of Namsan and the surrounding Dongdaemun area.
Outside the playground, a small courtyard with tiered seating hosts various family-oriented events on pleasant days.
'Even though the neighborhood may seem worn-down, it offers a great view of Namsan, and with its unique playground and numerous alleyways, it's the perfect place for a light stroll with kids. I'd say it's definitely one of Seoul's hidden gems,' said Kang Young-ok, a 64-year-old villager and deacon at a church in Changsin-dong.
cjh@heraldcorp.com
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