The perfect two-week holiday in the Philippines

Telegraph

a day ago

The Philippines, an archipelago of 7,641 islands on Asia's eastern edge, may still be off the radar for many travellers (it receives a fraction of the British visitors that neighbouring Thailand does, and fewer than both Cambodia and Vietnam), but its profile is on the rise – meaning now is the time to go.
It is, of course, a long way to travel (there are no direct flights, so it'll take you somewhere in the region of 18 hours), so it makes sense to allow two weeks of island-hopping to truly absorb its ever-changing diversity.
An ideal trip should include stops in Cebu and Vigan, for a taste of the country's Spanish colonial legacy, as well as a visit to the islands around El Nido, for world-class beaches and coral reefs; to Bohol, to meet tiny bug-eyed tarsiers; and Banaue, to see its amphitheatre of rice-terraces.
A perfect trip should also incorporate plenty of opportunities to sample the country's meaty, soy-and-vinegar infused cuisine – unlike any other in Asia – especially in Manila, where the restaurant scene explodes with contemporary options.
But the real highlight? The Filipinos themselves – the friendliest, most upbeat people in Asia. The level of English is extremely high throughout the country, so cheerful conservation comes easily, and despite having been through a great deal of hardship – colonialism, Japanese occupation, Marcos's political dictatorship – they've nevertheless come out smiling… and singing a lot of karaoke.
Days 1 & 2
Cebu City
Conquistadors and Catholics
Aim for a flight which gets you into the Philippines' second city – located on the eastern coast of Cebu Island – by early evening (Cathay Pacific 's overnight flight from London, for example, connects via Hong Kong and arrives at 6pm).
The airport is set on tiny Mactan Island, so check in to nearby Crimson Resort and Spa (B&B doubles from £151) and spend the evening relaxing after your long journey.
The following morning, it's time to head into the hurley-burly of Cebu City – the country's most historic city – roughly an hour's drive from the resort. A taxi will cost you between 100-300 Philippine pesos (£1.30-4), and the drive will take you across the spectacular Cebu–Cordova Link Expressway, which meanders over the sea for 5.5 miles.
Start at Plaza Sugbu, where you'll find a replica of Magellan's Cross, erected in 1515 to signal Spain's arrival, outside a cavernous 16 th -century basilica that's home to a sacred doll-like relic called Santo Niño. The Spanish got serious here in 1565 and built Fort San Pedro, though its 8ft-thick coral-stone walls now enclose a frangipani tree courtyard.
For lunch, migrate to The Barracks inside Carbon Market, where hawker food stalls cook-up fresh sizzling butter crab and Cebu favourite, tuslob buwa (pork liver and brains). Each dish will cost you roughly £2-4.
Walk off lunch by visiting the historic houses which survived America's 1945 bombardment (intended to drive out the Japanese) – a particularly excellent example is period-furnished Casa Gorordo, which dates from 1863, where you'll find polished mahogany floors and coral glass window (plus Bo's Coffee café downstairs, where you can pick up a reviving iced latte).
Next, make time for a spot of shopping at Anthill Fabric Gallery, an emporium which showcases fine Cebuano weaving, and at Alegre, where you can watch guitars being made from mango wood. Finish on a Spanish theme with tapas at Enye, watching waiters blow-torch seared tuna steaks table-side.
Days 3 & 4
Southern Cebu Island
A local feast
Head south for an artisan foodie day. A favoured pitstop is the city of Carcar, roughly one hour and 45 minutes drive from Cebu City, famed for lechon (whole roasted pig) and chicharron (similar to pork scratchings). Mayu Restaurant is a popular place for both, where a 500g portion of the latter (for two) costs £7.
An hour further south, the coastal town of Argao reveals an imposing 1780s coral-stone church, St Michael Archangel, where the belltower once doubled as a lookout for pirates. Argao is a hub for cottage industry food producers, so make time for a visit to the family Guilang factory, which has been making chocolate tablets since 1948. It's the staple of a Cebuano breakfast of sikwate (oozingly thick hot chocolate) with sticky rice coconut triangles wrapped in banana leaves and fresh mango – and will likely be the best 60p you ever spend.
Also worth a stop is Jesse Magallones, which bakes the popular fiesta cake, torta, made from tuba (coconut sap) and lard, and Leonilo Sedon, which ferments suka pinakurat hot and spicy coconut vinegar, vital to Filipino cooking.
Tonight, check-in at the newly opened Cebu Beach Club (B&B doubles from £173), where 36 clifftop rooms look out over the Camotes Sea toward Bohol Island. If you've time, end your day by swimming with sea-turtles off the white-sand beach below.
Back to nature
It's time to get active. Cross Cebu Island's rain-forested spine to a protected marine reserve, Tañon Strait, set in a sea channel facing Negros Island, then take a small boat to Moalboal for the unique experience of swimming with tens of thousands of sardines near Panagsama Beach.
For a quirky lunch, try fish sutukil at Lola Tanciang's Seafood Paluto – the name ('su-tu-kil') is a portmanteau of grill, soup and ceviche, all prepared using the same piece of fish, typically grouper.
After lunch, hike the spearmint-coloured Matutinao River to a swimming hole beneath the 42ft-high Kawasan Waterfall.
Canyoneering is popular here, with excursions by Kawasan Dante's Peak Canyoneering costing £28 and including lunch. In far Southern Cebu Island, tours take guests to snorkel with whale-sharks, with trips from £23.
Days 5 & 6
Panglao and Bohol Islands
A little limestone brother
Take the two-hour ferry or ' bangka ' (traditional outrigger boats) from Cebu to neighbouring Bohol, one of the Philippines most visited islands. Find somewhere to stay on tiny Panglao, an island which sits at Bohol's south-western tip and hosts the pick of the two islands' beach resorts.
The most popular is the 88-room Bohol Beach Club (B&B doubles from £160), set on Dumaluan Beach's fine white sand (they also run diving and snorkelling trips to Pamilacan Island, to see coral gardens, turtles and spinner dolphins, from £80 per person), while the boutique Amarela Resort (B&B doubles from £113) is a more classic option and has a breezy sea-view restaurant serving Filipino fare.
For sundowners, head to the neoclassical-looking Villa Umi, where there's a stylish bar right on the beach.
Panglao's craggy karst limestone is omnipresent, from the 19 th -century Church of Our Lady of the Assumption (built from fossiliferous coral stone) to the island's subterranean swimming lagoons, natural sinkholes known as cenotes (the most popular of which is Hinagdanan cave – though opt for an early dip if you want to beat the crowds).
For lunch, Bohol Bee Farm is a whimsical farm-to-plate restaurant with views to Mindanao Island. Its sharing farm platter (£37) features chops, baked tuna, ribs, garden salad, and paper-thin spring rolls, mostly made with local produce, which supports the livelihoods of more than 500 farmers and staff.
Chocolate Hills and bug-eyed critters
Spend a day exploring Bohol Island's eclectic sights. Its UNESCO Global Geopark status is spearheaded by the outstanding Chocolate Hills, 17,000 rounded coral hills weathered smooth like a basket of eggs, so named because the dry season (November-May) causes the vegetation to take on a brown hue. Avoid the coach-parties to the popular Carmen viewpoint by visiting before 8am.
Equally iconic are tarsiers, tiny prosimian primates with trademark huge, wide eyes. The easiest place to spot them is at a tarsier sanctuary at Corella, where you'll see them dozing in the trees.
Similarly strange are Bohol's remarkable 'dinosaur eggs', or Asín tibuók, oblong balls of salt made from tidal water and burnt coconut husks.
Visit the Manongas family workshop to see their extraordinary processing of these salt eggs (and buy one for £11).
A non-beach alternative to Panglao is Loboc River Resort (B&B doubles from £133) – 35 cottages immersed in riverside forest. For dinner, head to Tagbilaran for Bohol's most contemporary offering, Animula Tasting Room, which serves Filipino favourites such as beef asado with a twist, in an ultra-modern space.
Day 7, 8 & 9
Palawan Island
Hit the beach
It's a 1hr 45 minute flight from Bohol to the West Philippines Sea's adventure playground, Palawan Island. Beach tourism's hub is El Nido, set among jagged limestone islands that are home to the silkiest beaches and priciest resorts.
El Nido's 237,000-acre marine reserve is a mosaic of mangroves and corals; ideal for kayaking and snorkelling with superb diving.
Lio Beach is a 4km stretch of white sand facing Cadlao Island, with plenty of upmarket food and hotel offerings. The 153-room Seda Lio Hotel (B&B doubles from £290) is backed by rainforest, with garden rooms by a large infinity pool.
If you fancy a break from the meat-heavy traditional cuisine, Lio's upscale beach dining scene offers more health-conscious options, including Saboria, which serves lighter fusion Philippine cuisine, PLNT+HRVST (vegetarian-vegan) and Punta Playa, a breezy Mediterranean bistro.
Two of El Nido's finest beaches are Duli – also the reserve's best surf spot – and Nacpan, 4km of golden sand facing a private island owned by boxing superstar Manny Pacquiao.
Stick around for the night by booking into the 16-room Angkla Resort (B&B doubles from £333), which is built around a tropical courtyard, or opt for air-conditioned glamping at Nacpan Beach Glamping (doubles from £240 per person).
Younger crowds might prefer the mass market beach scene around downtown El Nido, which unleashes its inner Pattaya vibe. It's worth a gawp to see the party and bar scene or get a cheap massage, and for surprisingly excellent sushi and seafood restaurants – like the earthy and inexpensive Sea Jane Resto Bar, where fish, lobster or prawns are grilled fresh, and upstairs tables overlook Bacuit Bay.
Castaway
Staying on a private island can be eye-wateringly expensive (even in the Philippines, where the likes of Banwa will set you back a cool £73,000 per night), but there are more affordable resorts amid the offshore limestone islands.
One such option is Miniloc Island Resort (all-inclusive doubles from £733), a laid-back spot with thatched rooms (some overwater) located a 20-minute speedboat transfer from Lio Beach.
It offers complementary kayaking, as well as snorkelling on a technicolour house reef which teems with tropical fish.
Move over Ha Long Bay
The limestone islands and pinnacles bear a passing resemblance to Vietnam's famous Ha Long Bay, albeit without the latter's armada of junk-boats. With more than one-thousand islands to explore, various companies offer boat trips which combine three or four with lunch and snorkelling.
Popular routes include Snake Island (for panoramic views); Cudugnon Cave; and the 50ft-high Cathedral Cave on Pinasil Island (large enough to drive a speedboat inside); Entatula Island – which was recently cited as having one of the world's best beaches – and Paglugaban Island, for snorkelling on its effervescent coral reef.
For your final night before moving on to the big city, take the opportunity to splurge at private island Pangulasian Eco-Luxury Resort (B&B doubles from £1,060), where 50 luxurious villas are immersed in rainforest and surrounded by coral reefs.
Day 10
Manila
Jeepneys and the world's oldest Chinatown
Take the one-hour flight from El Nido to Manila, the Philippines' gloriously chaotic capital city on Luzon Island, dissected by the Pasig River.
The grindingly slow road traffic is made (slightly) more bearable by the fleets of Jeepneys – colourful customised US jeeps which function as public transport, similar to tuk tuks.
Much of Manila's architecture was obliterated during the Second World War, when the country was occupied by the Japanese and heavily bombed by the Americans. Nevertheless, evidence of its Spanish colonial legacy remains in the thick-walled Intramuros district, which has been largely rebuilt.
The baroque Unesco-listed Church of Saint-Augustine is an original, however, having survived its blitzkrieg and now home to a fine museum of treasure from the galleon trade with Mexico (then known as New Spain).
Opposite is a cosy Filipino bistro called Ristorante Delle Mitre – named after the bishops' headgear – which draws diners with its superlative chicken adobe (tender chicken marinated in soy sauce, vinegar, and garlic), the country's national dish.
Head north and across the river, and you'll soon find yourself in Quiapo district, where the large market is fun to browse on foot, while the cathedral (officially called The Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Jesus Nazareno) houses the Philippines' most sacred object, the Black Nazarene statuette, which is paraded every January to crowds numbering well over a million.
A short stroll westwards will bring you to Binondo, home to the world's oldest Chinatown in, where you'll find dim sum restaurants and Tao-Buddhist temples, as well as to a slither of surviving American art-deco around Escolta.
It's here that you'll come upon the 1920s First Union Building, which hosts artisanal craft shops and a café, The Den, which offers excellent Filipino-bean coffees.
For more war history, spend the afternoon at the American Cemetery – an hour's drive south-east, in Taguig – a sobering experience, with 16,800 marble crosses marking soldiers lost in the Second World War's Pacific theatre of war.
For dinner, head to the fashionable nightlife hub of Makati, where Blackbird serves artistic pan-Asian dishes in an art-deco former American airport terminal, or to nearby Greenbelt, where Ember – the creation of the British-Filipino chef, Josh Boutwood – combines informality with fine cuisine.
For drinks, head to Población district's wall-to-wall bars. Hip speakeasies include The Spirits Library, with its floor-to-ceiling bookcases of spirits, and Run Rabbit Run, a darkly lit cocktail bar. Stop by 32 nd -floor rooftop bar, Firefly Roofdeck, for magnificent night-time Manila views.
End the day by checking into either The Bayleaf Hotel in the Intramuros district (B&B doubles from £97), an inexpensive four-star with excellent views of the city from its rooftop bar, or the iconic Peninsula Hotel (B&B doubles from £165) in Makati.
Day 11
North Luzon Island
Sand spas and fairy-tale gorges
A few hours north from Manila is little-visited Inararo, where the Melanesian Aetas people manage ancestral lands which were covered in ash during Mount Pinatubo's 1991 eruption. Subsequent erosion has sculpted the most delicately beautiful fern-cloaked gorge, a fairy-tale mile-long loop which takes roughly an hour to complete on foot. A tour of th area – with a guide and driver – costs £80 with Pinatubo Mountaineiro, including lunch, a dip in geothermal hot springs at Puning, and a hot-sand spa.
Day 12
Banaue
Rice, and more rice
A long day's drive into Luzon's north (by private car) will take you to Banaue, where the Unesco-listed rice-terraces date back 2,000 years, soaring into the Cordilleras. Check-in at Banaue town's Grand View Hotel (B&B doubles from £63) – where rooms have wonderful views of the sweeping terraces – then head out for a bite to eat at Uyami's Greenview Restaurant, the best local outlet in the area. All dishes come with rice, and – if you're lucky – occasional cultural displays by the Ifugao people.
If time allows, hike into the amphitheatre of rice-terraces at small town Batad for awe-inspiring vistas. If you'd like to spend the night here instead, opt for Simon's View Inn and Restaurant (room-only doubles from £20).
Day 13
Sagada
The hanging coffins
Two hours' drive along dramatic mountain roads leads northwest to Sagada, a remote community of the Igorot people who for millennia (until the arrival of Catholicism) buried their dead in coffins housed within – or hanging down on ropes from – cliffside caves. Seeing them is a macabre but fascinating spectacle, and one of immense cultural significance.
In town, pay a visit to a superb gallery devoted to Eduardo Masferré, one of the Philippine's greatest photographers, whose works chronicle Igorot culture. Spend the night at one of Sagada's homely and simple options, including Masferré Country Inn (B&B doubles from £46) where rooms are adorned with photographs of Igorot culture, and Martha's Hearth (room-only doubles from £40). Bana's Coffee has won international awards for its roasted coffee and has a decent menu of local produce.
Day 14
Vigan
All things Spanish
Another four hours on the road from Sagada is UNESCO-listed Vigan, where you'll find the complete colonial core of a 16 th -century Spanish city, the exquisite architecture of which is fused with Chinese and Ilocano motifs.
Wander its cobbled streets, visit historic houses, and see the archbishop's palace, then – and as the sun goes down – join the promenade in Plaza's Salcedo and Burgos.
For dinner, seek out Ilocano fish sauce-infused dishes such as pinakbet, at Café Uno 's corner restaurant or Café Leona. Several classical homes offer atmospheric stays: Hotel Luna (B&B doubles from £60) is built around a pretty internal patio, while Hotel Felicidad (B&B doubles from £40) has four-poster beds.
Day 15
Head to Loag Airport for the hour-long flight back to Manila, and – if you've time – end your trip with a an explosion of culinary theatre at highly rated fine-dining spot Helm.
How to do it
When to go
Perennially tropical, The Philippines has two distinct seasons – hot and dry. The drier and cooler season – when temperatures range from 25-30°C – is between December and early May. From May to October the weather is wetter, hotter and cyclone prone, though there are fewer crowds and refreshingly greener landscapes.
What to book
Cost effective
Bamboo Travel (0207 7209285) tailor-makes trips similar to the one described. A 14-day island hopping holiday costs around £4,195 per person, including nights in Manila, Cebu, Bohol, Sagada, Banaue and El Nido, as well as international flights with Cathay Pacific, B&B accommodation, all transfers, and guided tours.
Blow the budget
Audley Travel (01993 838155) offers a 17-day combined Hong Kong & Luxury Tour of the Philippines from £10,375 per person (based on two travelling), featuring five-nights at the opulent Amanpulo Resort on Pamilacan Island, private transfers, flights from London via Hong Kong, and excursions.
Know before you go
Rather than expensive roaming, pick up an affordable local SIM card upon arrival at Manila or Cebu Airport (a 20GB allowance lasting 14 days will set you back around £8), or opt for an eSim.
Taxi journeys are inexpensive using the downloadable app Grab, which functions like Uber.
Most outlets accept debit cards, but it's worth carrying a small amount of cash for those few smaller ones which don't. US dollars are easiest to exchange.
The whole country has patron saint fiestas throughout the year. Bohol has one every day during May. If offered, join these open house feasts to be welcomed like a long lost relative.
A quick, free e-travel declaration should be completed before arrival.