In the kitchen, high-tech gadgets are cool but the smartest buy for your kitchen is a chef's knife

Globe and Mail

10-05-2025

Modern kitchens are overflowing with techy gadgets and gimmicks – some useful, others a little absurd. Does anyone really need a Bluetooth pizza thermometer that pings your phone when the pie hits the perfect internal temperature?
Among the noise of smart appliances, one ancient, analog tool remains essential: the knife. More specifically, the so-called chef's knife.
This all-purpose blade is a power player in any kitchen. Typically around 20 centimetres long, a good chef's knife balances size and functionality. With a sturdy, ergonomic handle that should fit well in the palm, it's designed to handle everything from slicing and dicing to mincing and chopping a variety of proteins, fruits and vegetables.
'A great knife is an extension of a chef's hand,' says Susur Lee, celebrated restaurateur, TV host and TikTok personality. 'When you truly know your knife, it makes you that much more confident in the kitchen. A knife is the most personal tool a chef can use.'
Personal is the right word. There are almost as many options out there as there are styles of cooking. Not to mention price points, with top knives costing as much as a mortgage payment. So the question remains: How to start looking for the right knife for you?
According to Ryusuke Nakagawa, executive chef at Toronto's Michelin-starred Aburi Hana, two things matter most when he is considering the plethora of options out there. 'How long the sharpness lasts is important,' he says. 'And also how well it fits your grip when you actually hold it.'
Nakagawa began his career near Kyoto, Japan, where he purchased his first knife from Aritsugu – a local, small-batch knife maker that has been producing blades from ultrahard steel for more than 500 years. 'The harder the steel, such as Japanese Hagane, the better,' he explains. 'The harder it is, the sharper it will be.'
Lee agrees, citing a preference for high-carbon Japanese Shirogami steel and Aogami steel (in general, the higher the carbon, the sharper and the higher the strength). Also for him, like Nakagawa, the handle is just as critical as the blade. 'Comfort, control and how it feels in my hand are key,' he says.
This can be very subjective. Everyone has a different grip and likes different materials. Lee specifically opts for the smooth feel of a wood handle. 'It must be a wood handle!' he says. Whereas others much prefer metal or plain old (not to mention more affordable) plastic.
His go-to knives come from Japanese brand Nenox. 'The quality and attention to detail are unmatched in my opinion,' he says. 'Much of their process is done by hand.'
Still, both chefs agree that owning a great knife is only half the equation. Proper maintenance is just as invaluable.
'Simple care goes a long way,' says Lee. 'Regular honing with a whetstone and proper storage – like using a magnetic wood board – is essential. I also avoid chopping on hard surfaces like marble, and I only ever hand-wash my knives.'
Nakagawa echoes the sentiment. 'It is important to check and care for the daily condition of the knife you use,' he says. 'Most dishes start with cutting ingredients. If you start with a knife of poor quality, the final result will also be poor.'
When shopping for a good chef's knife, look for a hard blade and comfortable handle.