The Stampede of Steakhouses Continues in West Loop
Steak is just so hot right now, whether it's in a fast-casual bowl, inside a vending machine, or in the traditional sense at a formal restaurant. Trino is the latest addition to this avalanche of beef and will open Wednesday, August 6, along Randolph Street in the West Loop. Reservations are live.
Chef Stephen Sandoval has been prepping for the steakhouse's debut via a series of pop-ups at Soho House Chicago. This will be Sandoval's third project in Chicago. He launched Diego in 2023 in West Town, a tiny bar serving tacos, cured seafood, and more. Sandoval remains optimistic that Entre Sueños, his ode to Baja Med cuisine, will open later this year in West Town. The delayed project remains one of Chicago's most anticipated openings of 2025.
At Trino, expect live-fire cooking with Spanish and Latin influences. Unique sauces — like huitlacoche bordelaise — will play significant roles, and there will be creative seafood and pasta dishes. Sandoval will deliver fun twists on familiar steakhouse standards. Caviar, for example, will be paired with chicharrón. Sandoval cited Argentinian pyromanic chef Francis Mallmann as an influence.
Sandoval is partnering with friend Oscar Sotelo. The pair met while working at Leña Brava, the West Loop Mexican restaurant, formerly run by Rick Bayless. Together, they formed Cinco Sueños, which will operate the Trino and a speakeasy-style bar on the lower level called Laberinto. The two projects replace Komo, a sushi restaurant owned by Nils Westlind. Westlind's upper-level lounge, ESCO, will remain. A rep says that 'together, the three concepts will form a cohesive, multi-level hospitality destination under one roof.'
Leaning into the speakeasy vibe, a rep didn't share much about Laberinto. The interiors of Trino and its sibling bar will be designed in collaboration with Aida Napoles of AGN Design.
Chicago chefs have worked hard to show America that the city's restaurant scene is about more than meat and potatoes, often a stereotype offered by myopic coastal elites offended by Midwestern charm. But steakhouses are also a safe bet to bring in revenue. As America deals with volatility — whether it's increased wages or labor challenges furthered by changes to immigration policy — diners will see fewer risks. Although the steakhouse formula is as tried and true as it gets, any genre can be livened up. Customers will soon see if Trino is up for the challenge.
Trino, 738 W. Randolph Street, planned for a Wednesday, August 6 opening; reservations available via Resy.
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