Is Oman in the Middle East safe for female travellers?
My trip coincides with Ramadan, however, the holy month experience enhances it and furthers my understanding of a region that is much maligned.
A couple of friends pointedly advise that 'the Middle East isn't safe' when I mention our plans to travel. Sure, parts are off-limits - there are wars and conflicts – but Oman is as safe as its stone houses and we two women travellers view our trip as an adventure, not something to fear.
While Doha has its intriguing old quarter, much of the city is playing desperate catch-up with nearby Dubai, which can't help itself when it comes to creating structures to qualify for the Guinness Book of Records.
Muscat is a delight: little high-rise, no man-made islands populated with expensive villas and the only edifices are the hills that touch the coast in several places.
The city spreads from west to east along the Sea of Oman, forming a thin white line moving subtly from brilliant white to soft beige, a palette that works beautifully against the dark ragged backdrop.
I book a hotel in the west, not too far from the airport, but discover the location isn't ideal. Next time I'll book digs near the Mutrah Souk further east, where we can easily walk in the old town and along the Corniche to observe Omani life.
Public transport is rare, necessitating taking taxis, but by week's end we've worked out how to get the best deal. On the plus side, we stay in a Western-owned hotel and can order room-service dinner with wine, despite Ramadan.
On my first morning, I walk to a corner shop, only to find it's closed but a local man offers to take me to the nearby Lulu Hypermarket (which sells everything imaginable and soon becomes a second home). I hop in his car with his wife and am happy for the ride and the intel.
A trip on the hop-on-hop-off Big Bus puts Muscat in perspective on day one.
There's hardly a soul on the top deck, so I can move from side to side to view one of the most dramatic cities I've seen.
We alight at Al Alum Palace fashioned in an unusual Indian design and the accompanying array of ministerial buildings so pristine they dazzle under a perfect blue sky, and after rounding a coastal bend come face to face with two magnificent forts.
Built by the Portuguese during their 150-year rule in the 16th and 17th centuries, they flank the rocky outcrops at the harbour's entrance. A few kilometres further there's Mutrah Fort, standing sentinel above the port where the Sultan's private yacht lies at anchor and is a stroll to the souk with its trinkets and frankincense of many colours.
We learn a lot after striking up conversations with young Bangladeshi men queuing for takeaway meals of chicken biriyani and Laban yoghurt drink to enjoy when the Ramadan fast concludes an hour later. Some 30% of Oman's population of five million are immigrant workers drawn from the subcontinent and the Philippines.
Day two and we're on a 4WD tour to Wahiba Sands Desert and Wadi Bani Khalid, a waterhole perfect for swimming where we don our shorts over one-piece swimsuits.
We share the day with a German mother-of-three, who is about to embark on a two-week solo driving trip down the Omani coast and into its interior. Her only trepidation is working out which of Muscat's motorways will take her out of town!
Another day, our guide, who insists his name is 'Sultan', takes us to the former capital of Nizwa and its imposing fort, the biggest in the land.
He later steers us expertly up a precipitous road to Jebel Akhdar, or the Green Mountain, with unending views of peaks and canyons. The highlight is a downhill hike past terraced orchards, or hanging gardens, planted with pomegranates, apricots, and damask roses, the latter to make the prized rosewater.
On our last day, we adopt the required dress code, covered head-to-ankle in opaque clothing, to visit Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.
It's named for the late ruler who opened Oman to the outside world, gave women equal rights, and preserved the country's allure, which had wooed me all those years before.
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Otago Daily Times
4 days ago
- Otago Daily Times
About both journey, destination
While Japan welcomed an incredible 37 million international visitors last year and is targeting 60 million per year by the end of the decade, there are still parts of the country that host few foreign tourists and don't seem to have changed much in the past few decades, Queenstown travel writer Craig McLachlan finds. Two-thirds of international visitor nights are spent in Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima and few stray far from the beaten path. I've been writing Japan guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 1998 and it's part of my job to tell visitors how to get off that beaten path and inform them about parts of Japan that they've never heard of — and I can't think of a more enjoyable job. Island-hopping My wife Yuriko and I are in Japan at present, island-hopping from Kagoshima, at the southern end of Kyushu, Japan's third-largest island, to Naha, the main city in Okinawa. Didn't know you could go island-hopping in Japan? Well, this is one of the world's great boat journeys. Nothing luxurious at all; these are inter-island ferries that have delivering freight, the lifeblood of the islands, as their primary purpose. In return, they cart agricultural products from the islands to market. Moving islanders to and from the various islands to Kagoshima and Naha comes next, with carting tourists, especially non-Japanese-speaking ones, as an afterthought. If you want to take this on, be aware that island-hopping through the Amami Islands is like an old-style backpacking adventure. It's about both the journey and the destination, an extremely satisfying trip with experiences to be had along the way that you'll never forget. But it's a trip that's going to require a bit of effort — not many English-speakers, English-language menus or much in the way of Western-style food out this way — but the locals are friendly, you'll face a lot of smiles and most will try to help you make your visit work out for everyone. The journey It's a 25-hour journey from Kagoshima to Naha, with stops at four islands along the way — Amami Ōshima, Tokunoshima, Okinoerabujima and Yoron-tō. Each day, there's one ferry heading south — Kagoshima to Naha — and one ferry heading north — Naha to Kagoshima. Outside of the Japanese holiday seasons — Golden Week (late April to early May) and summer holidays (July 20 to the end of August) — you can pretty much turn up an hour before a sailing and get the cheapest ticket to ride to the next island. You'll want to pre-book a spot in Japanese holiday periods. If you want to go the whole hog, a 14-day norihōdai (ride as much as you like!) pass costs ¥30,000 yen (about $NZ344) and you could ride the ferry from Kagoshima to Naha and back (or vice versa) over two weeks. One thing to keep in the back of your mind — June to October is typhoon season in Japan and typhoons tend to play havoc with ferry schedules. Think of it as part of the adventure! On this trip, Yuriko and I opted to take the ferry from Kagoshima and spend two nights each on Tokunoshima, Okinoerabujima and Yoron-tō, then a few nights in Naha, before flying back to Osaka. It's just as easy to fly to Naha from any number of mainland cities, then ride the ferry north to Kagoshima. Leaving Kagoshima We were surprised at the number of schoolkids in uniform milling around at Kagoshima port. It was spring holidays in Japan. The new school year starts in early April each year and school was out. If all those kids were getting on the ferry it would be a very crowded ship, indeed. Once we boarded the ferry and looked back, however, all became clear. The crowd of students had come to farewell a beloved teacher who was being transferred to one of the Amami Islands for a year or two. About 200 waving students lined the railings at the port, with unfurled banners wishing the teacher good luck. Equally, when we arrived on Tokunoshima, a group of students and parents was there to greet and welcome their new teacher with much excitement to the island. Both the Kagoshima departure and Tokunoshima arrival were moving sights, testament to the value of a good teacher. Tokunoshima The first island we hopped off the ferry at, Tokunoshima, proudly claims a couple of remarkable records. This tiny dot on the ocean, with a population of around 22,000, has had not one, but two Guinness World Record-holders for the world's oldest person. Shigechiyo Izumi got the big prize in 1979, then lived another seven years before dying aged 120 years and 237 days. Kamata Hongo became the world's oldest person in 1999 and lived to 116 years and 45 days. Dubbed "the island of longevity", Tokunoshima also hit amazing highs at the other end of the scale, recording Japan's highest total fertility rate of 2.25 (the number of children a woman has in her lifetime), in figures released last year. That's an interesting number, considering that Aotearoa's total fertility rate is 1.66 births per woman and Japan, as a whole, is at 1.26 (both 2022). Unfortunately, despite this encouraging figure, the island's population is still declining, with young people leaving Tokunoshima for work and opportunities on the mainland. We loved our time on Tokunoshima, staying in Kametsu, the largest town on the island, by the port of Kametoku. The only way to really see what the island has to offer is with a set of wheels and rental cars are available in the port. There is a great passion on the island for tōgyū, a kind of bovine sumō, that has a 400-year history on Tokunoshima. The best English translation of tōgyū is bullfighting, but this is nothing like the Spanish version that pits man against bull. In tōgyū, it's bull against bull, the two locking horns and trying to force each other backwards. The bout is decided when one bull tires, retreats and runs away. The bulls are ranked, much like in sumō, given inspiring "fighting names" and are much loved and cared for by their owners. There are three big tournaments on Tokunoshima each year, and while there is prize money, we were told that it is minimal when compared with the costs of keeping and training a bull. It's all about pride on the island. Owners tend and train their bulls like pets and after 5pm each day, once owners have finished work, huge 800kg-1000kg bulls can be seen being led down roads and along beaches as part of their training. We were taken to meet Kokuhō, whose proud owner spends from 5pm-8pm daily with him — feeding, exercising and even massaging his giant pet. When I asked more about tōgyū at the Tourist Information Office, the manager swiftly brought out his smartphone to show us photos of his two bulls. Okinoerabujima Next island down the line, Okinoerabujima is a raised coral atoll, about 20km long, with a population of 14,000 people. Its main industry is agriculture, and it was potato and sugar cane harvesting season when we turned up. There aren't enough hands available during harvesting season and a number of young Japanese show up from around the country to help. A young guy running a bar in Wadomari, the main port, told us he originally came from Osaka five years ago to help with the potato harvest and never left. You'll also want to rent some wheels on Okinoerabujima to see the sights. Some 200 limestone caves are dotted around the island, the easiest to visit being Shōryūdō, with 600m of the 3.5km-long cave system open to visitors. It takes about 30 minutes to walk through these truly remarkable caverns. The island is also renowned for the Erabu lily. The large, white trumpet-shaped lilies bloom in April and May and were just coming into bloom when we were there. Bulbs are cultivated and sent to the Japanese mainland as a major earner for the island. They have also been exported overseas, due to being introduced to Europe through World Expos from 1870 onwards, to become known as "Easter lilies", their white petals being a symbol of purity for Christian events around the globe. Yoron-tō My favourite island, though, was the speck that is Yoron-tō, home to 6000 people. This raised coral island, surrounded by reef, is home to some 60 magnificent beaches, with Yurigahama, a sandy islet that appears at low tide, being Yoron-tō's renowned highlight. Only 23km in circumference, this is an island to ride around on a bike. Rentals are readily available. Kiwis will be surprised to find the island's museum and information building is called the Southern Cross Centre. Did you know that the Southern Cross could be seen in the northern hemisphere? At 27° 22' north of the equator, Yoron-tō is the most northerly point in Japan from which you can view the Southern Cross, though the guy in the museum admitted it was hard to spot, more or less right on the horizon. I was overjoyed to hear something that has largely disappeared from most parts of regional Japan. At noon, loudspeakers around the island cranked up with tropical Yoron island music, then announced to everyone working in their fields that it was lunchtime. At 5pm, the music was followed by an announcement thanking everyone for their hard work, saying that it was time to go home, and telling workers to be careful of children playing — and not to drink and drive! Our island-hopping adventure through the Amami Islands happened all too fast and suddenly it was time to hop on the ferry to the final stop and one of my favourite cities, vibrant Naha, the capital of Okinawa. I've flown there many times, but this time, it was about the journey, not the destination. — Craig McLachlan is a Queenstown-based "freelance anything" who has been writing Lonely Planet guidebooks for over 25 years.
NZ Herald
26-05-2025
- NZ Herald
The Sapphire Coast, Australia's wilder, less-known coastline
While you can technically fly to Merimbula, between Eden and Bermagui, this southernmost coast of NSW is best seen as part of a slow road trip from big cities like Sydney, Melbourne or Canberra. Beaches all to yourself The smorgasbord of beaches and nature along our way means there's plenty of chance to unplug and unwind. Along the coast-hugging road, we've driven through a series of national parks, marine and nature reserves (there are more than 30 such protected reserves on the South Coast), quaint seaside villages and towns, encountered friendly bush kangaroos and marine life at Jervis Bay (the Commonwealth-owned marine park has the best snorkelling in the state), picnicked on the placid shores of Lake Conjola, and more. The centrepiece is a never-ending string of blue beaches, bays, inlets and lakes, mostly to ourselves. Surprise seals At Narooma's popular, shark-netted, South Bar Beach, I'm alarmed by a screaming public. There's a seal swimming along the beach! Chasing a getaway fish, the seal weaves through thrilled and startled bathers just metres from the shore. Narooma is known and loved for its resident seal colony. Several tour operators also run tours to Barunguba Montague Island (a 30-minute boat ride off the coast of Narooma) where you can swim with the seals, see Little Penguins, and more. Such opportunities to encounter wild animals in their own habitat are one of the greatest features of the area. Seaside cycleways Yet another way to explore the coastline is taking the coastal Narooma to Dalmeny Cycleway, which is ranked top three of Australian Geographic's great bike rides of NSW but remains barely known. We opt to cruise the easy-grade 21km trail on E-bikes hired from Southbound Escapes (a coffee spot, eatery, gift shop, tourist hub, and local visitors centre), crossing the Narooma Mill Bay Boardwalk, where we glimpse stingrays, seals, and the dazzlingly blue Wagonga Inlet, and passing eye-catching beaches, lookouts, forests, reedy mangrove swamps and lakes. Enchanting ocean rock pools At Bermagui, we clamber down a rock staircase carved out of the cliff, to the Blue Pool. It's hard to keep one's eyes off the sight below: rugged, amber-orange cliffs where the Pacific Ocean swirls and foams. Cut into the cliff like an opal, looking out to the blinding blue of the Pacific, the Blue Pool is an Instagrammer's dream and one of the most famous rock pools in the world. Courtesy of the Pacific, the pool has plenty of southern bite. While my husband relaxes like Neptune against a rock, I take photos, and my daughter braves the freezing pool to snorkel, discovering small fish schools, clusters of nudibranch, and a starfish. While in Bermagui, we toss on snorkels and explore the beautiful Bruce Steer Pool, a 150m-long saltwater pool fed by the serene harbour at Bermagui Point. After watching octopus, striped fish, and more dart through the water, we pick up some tasty pastries from Honourbread and park up on the beach alongside watchful pelicans and cormorants. Other enchanting ocean rock pools are found at Eden, Mystery Bay and elsewhere in and around the Sapphire Coast. Magical rock formations Hardy bushes screen us from the wind, and shelter coastal fungi and tiny chirping birds, as we traverse the cliff top trail to see Bermagui's iconic Horse Head Rock. The bushes also offer protection against the sheer drop to the sea floor below. The gigantic rock, estimated to be over 500 million years old (one of the state's oldest rock edifices), looks magically like a giant horse taking a drink from the sea. Descending the trail, back at Camel Rock Surf Beach, we take a closer look at Camel Rock. A photographer's dream, the rocks are just two of the South Coast's unique, ancient coastal formations. Other key geological formations in and around the Sapphire Coast include the Pinnacles and Glasshouse Rocks. Heart of the Sapphire Coast At Merimbula, an hour from Bermagui, and the centre of the Sapphire Coast, there's lots more to do, including walking the 500m-long trail out to Long Point, kayaking and canoeing tours on the Pambula River and the Merimbula to Pambula Cycleway. Short on time, we take the timber boardwalk along the Tahitian-blue inlet, snorkel at the historic Merimbula wharf alongside stingrays, and enjoy coffee at one of the many cafes staring down at the water. Seaside chillaxing Chillier than northern Australia, the southern morning is brisk, but there's sun, views and good nosh at Tathra Wharf; a key attraction in the far south village of Tathra. The last remaining wharf and building combination on the NSW coast from the coastal shipping trade of the 1800s, the heritage-listed building brims with crafts and treats. It's now a cafe, shop, gallery, museum, and popular coffee spot for locals. Seated on a wooden bench by a sunny window, we enjoy a leisurely breakfast, drinking in the sea view. The wharf is just one of scores of south coast eateries where you can sit by the water. Cliffside jaunt, the Tathra Headland Walk, starts outside the wharf, another opportunity to enjoy the startlingly azure water. Edge of the world Once a whaling and fishing town, and now home to a killer whale museum, Eden is the last key town of the Sapphire Coast. Two lighthouses also attest to its history and feature in the Light To Light coastal walk. Using directions from the award-winning Eden Visitors Centre, we take the lonely walk to the remnants of Ben Boyd Tower on a stony outcrop, gazing upon the desolate vastness of Twofold Bay. At the lookout, there's that eerie feeling of standing at the edge of the world with whatever ghosts of the past linger. In six days, we've barely scratched the surface of the treasures, the mystery and history that exist in this beautiful region. Checklist Sapphire Coast, South Coast, Australia. GETTING THERE Fly from Sydney, Melbourne or Canberra airports direct to Merimbula with Rex Airlines or Qantas. Drive. The beginning of the Sapphire Coast is about a 5-hour drive from Sydney or 3.5 hours from Canberra. Countrylink train from Sydney via Canberra. STAY MORE DETAILS
NZ Herald
15-05-2025
- NZ Herald
Siquijor: The Best Filipino Island You've Never Heard Of
Ranked by Agoda as the Philippines' fastest-growing tourist destination in late 2024, it's no secret that Siquijor will experience growth in the coming years. Like most idyllic tropical islands, getting to Siquijor is a bit of a process. Considering no carrier flies direct to Manila from Auckland, a stop in either Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane will need to be made. Once in Manila, flying to Dumaguete and then taking a two-hour ferry to the island is the most direct route. As soon as the ferry makes landfall, the vibrant, yet laid-back island culture of Siquijor becomes apparent. Tricycles and tuk-tuks fill the streets, while the smell of local delicacies sold by street vendors fills the air. It only takes a short time on the island to realise this isn't like other Southeast Asian destinations, without hordes of international tourists or overwhelming street vendors. Located on the southwestern side of the island, San Juan is the heart of Siquijor's tourism and is where most of the accommodation is located. For a mid-range air-conditioned room, prices range from $70 to $120. More expensive and luxurious options are also available at the resorts that surround the small village. For our stay, we opted for the Baha Ba'r in San Juan, which looks like something from the set of Swiss Family Robinson, in a genuine Filipino rainforest way. Local bands perform here every night and the restaurant serves mostly locally sourced seafood dishes, with a few Western classics thrown in for good measure. This represents what you can expect for the majority of dining options on the island, and it's all as affordable as you would expect, with the average dinner and drinks for two not exceeding $50. It's fair to say nowhere on the island offers particularly high-class dining experiences, but the local offerings are tasty. The picturesque settings of the establishments are where the real magic lies, such as the tropical rainforest cafe at Jungle KingDomes Guest House, or the Nakabolo restaurant with its breathtaking poolside view. As for activities, hiring a scooter/moped is by far the best way to see the island. To be covered by any sort of travel insurance here, you'll have to hold an NZ motorcycle licence because all the rental scooters available are 125cc. In saying this, most tourists will risk it on an island such as Siquijor as the roads are reasonably quiet, but it's worth being aware of the consequences involved. Whether you opt for your own scooter, or hire a tuk-tuk driver, there's plenty to explore on Siquijor. Paliton Beach is the best on the San Juan side of the island, with its white sand and crystal clear waters – just make sure you go at high tide for the best swimming. The Tubod Marine reserve is also great for snorkelling, and is handy to San Juan. Here, the coral reef starts almost immediately, with tropical fish only metres from the water's edge. Those willing to swim further may be greeted by schools of barracuda, which was a little intimidating but I was assured of their harmlessness. If you're willing to travel an hour or so north, Salagdoong Beach is a must-see. It's even prettier, and with its famous cliff-jumping platforms, hours of fun can be had here. The Cambugahay and Lugnason Falls are also worth a visit for the true rainforest waterfall experience. Both have swimming holes beneath the actual falls and impressive jumping spots, from which the locals weren't afraid to demonstrate their aerial skills. Bear in mind the paths down can be treacherous at times, especially if it has rained recently. As a whole, Siquijor feels like an untouched oasis among other, more popular Filipino island destinations, and is yet to experience the Byron Bay-type wellness and party tourism influx, like Siargao. This is likely down to the island not being accessible through commercial flights, and the extra ferry would put a lot of potential visitors off. If you're looking for a laid-back holiday that provides a glimpse into genuine Filipino island living, plus a healthy helping of all the usual holiday activities, then Siquijor is perfect. Checklist Fly from Auckland to Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane, and then to Manila. Fly from Manila to Dumaguete, then catch a ferry to Siquijor. New Zealand citizens can travel to the Philippines for up to 30 days without a visa.
