Icon magazine launches American edition led by Gro Curtis
Despite the predicted demise of traditional print media going back two decades, targeted publications with strong points of view continue to thrive. Case in point: Icon magazine, the Milan-based men's fashion and lifestyle magazine founded by co-creator Andrea Tenerani in 2011. The recent launch of its American edition marks its sixth title (others include France, Australia, and the Middle East) and will be led by Gro Curtis, whose CV includes stints as editorial director of VMan, Vogue Paris, Vogue Hommes, among other publications, as well as a slew of consulting gigs for brands such as Pyer Moss and Amiri, with Tenerani serving as editorial director. FashionNetwork.com spoke with Curtis on his plans to upend any preconceived notions of a typical fashion magazine.
With a launch issue that included four different covers—Robert De Niro photographed by Charlie Gray; models Leon Dame interviewed by John Galliano, Kit Butler interviewed by Dolce & Gabbana, and Malick Bodian interviewed by Kim Jones, each photographed by Paolo Roversi—Icon stands out as much for what it is as for what it isn't.
"It's common to hear how female models are muses to great designers. But what about the guys? That was my starting point. We gathered a trio of inspiring individuals who work closely with some of the most iconic designers. Each designer worked on their respective interview portions with the models, and it was an amazing interaction. And when it comes to our celebrity cover, we needed a true American icon: Mr. Robert De Niro. He needs no introduction," Curtis said via email.
The Croatian-born editor also scored a coup, as De Niro rarely grants photoshoots. "He doesn't need the press, but I felt we needed to have him. His point of view, his class, and his bravery are simply inspiring and make him an ultimate icon. He is very New York, where Icon America is based. On the opposite side, I wanted to present icons of a new generation: three kind individuals I know personally and have worked with for many years: Malick, Leon, and Kit. They have an impactful personal style, incredible manners, and love fashion," Curtis noted of the criteria used for Icon subjects.
"Candidly, we live in an era where the word icon is overused. Being famous doesn't make you iconic, nor does being a millionaire. Iconic people and moments are the ones we remember the most. It's about inspiration and sticking to your core beliefs. Our point of view is very simple: to cover the best of the best. The idea is not just to provide information but to create stories that inspire people with a certain value. We want to give a platform to individuals with unique characteristics and points of view that make them stand out," he added.
To celebrate its debut, the magazine threw a cocktail party and private dinner attended by plenty of iconic fashion media figures such as legacy editors, public relations professionals, model Malick Bodian, and legendary photographers Craig McDean, Steven Klein, and Mario Sorrenti.
Rather than giving the American men's magazine space something that was missing, Curtis maintains he is adding to the mix. "The U.S. is such a big and important market. With our first issue, we are communicating that we are not catering to viral trends. We inspire our readers to go back to the basics of elegance and dressing up. Tailoring is the most important fashion message of our inaugural issue, not because tailoring is safe but because elegance is the best armor to cope with today's world," the chief editor pointed out.
Other features of the first issue include Ralph Lauren discussing his home line, Mike Amiri on his road to success, and Keith McNally chatting about his rich life. The magazine's front-of-book acts as a concierge service delivering the latest in watches, movies, beauty, cinema, art, and books. The well is reserved for fashion and inspiring individuals. He describes it like "a box of chocolates with some familiar flavors and some that are perhaps unexpected but worthy of your attention. I'm not trying to create a winning formula per se. It's more about what feels genuine and organic in this moment and coming up with new ways to excite and surprise our reader," he said. Ideally, he aims for the content to entice Boomers to Gen Z.
The magazine's print issue will be bolstered with a digital presence on Instagram to serve as a de facto website, with specific editorial categories to be determined.
"Everything we plan to post is carefully curated, and it should be clear the kind of world Icon America is trying to build, and an additional way to engage with storytelling. We tend to swim against the tide. After all, what is the point in following what everyone else is already so brilliantly doing?"
As New York doesn't have a separate men's fashion week per se, Curtis is excited about the talent here, especially the two-time CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year, Willy Chavarria.
"His tailoring is both fluid and fearless. Willy is about quality and storytelling; his beliefs run deep, and you can feel them across every single garment," he noted.
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